Do i need a new MAF!!
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Do i need a new MAF!!
ok so i was at a meet yesterday and i was discussing the stuff that i need for the turbo kit i'm building and i was talking to this guy who owns an rx-7 and he told me with what i'm doing i'm going to need a new MAF and fuel pump.. can anyone help!!
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more than likely some jackass with an RX7 trying to sound smart. For the price of a new MAF (Which you don't need) you could be investing for something that removes the MAF anyways.
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I ran 14psi on the stock pump without issues. But I'm using 550s/EMS so I'm not relying on psi to force fuel thru small injectors. If your bandaid'in it with a fuel pressure riser then you might need a pump if yours is week or you plan higher boost levels. Just watch that wideband at high wot rpm. You have a wideband right? 
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Well......Maybe he just doesnt know much about miatas...Becuase you probably mentioned about getting new injectors, and in some cars, new injectors mean a diff. Afm or MAF. Like mustangs D:
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
MXDrift,
You're going to need some kind of fuel and timing control. The options are numerous, and none of them involve replacing the airflow sensor.
For the earlier cars with a traditional circulating fuel system, and auxiliary fuel pressure regulator can be used to increase fuel pressure in the rail as a function of boost pressure. Typically 10-12 PSI of fuel for every 1 PSI of boost. On stock fuel injectors this will get you to perhaps 6-8 PSI of boost safely. Later cars have a returnless fuel system and cannot use this trick.
Next up is a piggyback fuel controller such as the Voodoo box. These devices hold the injectors open longer when in boost. Unfortunately there is not a significant amount of headroom in the spec of the stock injectors, so you're not going to be able to manage wild amounts of boost with such a device- maybe 6 PSI. Also, these boxes are pricey, and by the time you add an external ignition controller (like a Bipes ACU) you've priced yourself into the next category, which is...
The piggyback ECU. Several on the market, but the Greddy eManage Ultimate (EMU) is the popularity contest winner. Figure on spending $700 or so to cover the unit, the MAP sensor, and some cable harnesses. This will get you fairly good fuel and timing control. At this level, you can toss your AFM/MAF on the shelf.
The ultimate of course in the full standalone. Again, lots of options, from the Hydra (pricey, but supported by FM) to the Megasquirt which is pretty much a full-on DIY solution. There's a plug-n-play Megasquirt avaliable for the '90-'93 Miatas, everything else you're going to be brushing up on your soldering skills. Problematic in later cars if you need a functional OBD-II port for emissions inspections or if you have an ECU-controlled alternator ('99+ I think).
Having a wideband exhaust O2 sensor is a good idea no matter what you do, and more or less a requirement for the Piggyback and standalone options.
You're going to need some kind of fuel and timing control. The options are numerous, and none of them involve replacing the airflow sensor.
For the earlier cars with a traditional circulating fuel system, and auxiliary fuel pressure regulator can be used to increase fuel pressure in the rail as a function of boost pressure. Typically 10-12 PSI of fuel for every 1 PSI of boost. On stock fuel injectors this will get you to perhaps 6-8 PSI of boost safely. Later cars have a returnless fuel system and cannot use this trick.
Next up is a piggyback fuel controller such as the Voodoo box. These devices hold the injectors open longer when in boost. Unfortunately there is not a significant amount of headroom in the spec of the stock injectors, so you're not going to be able to manage wild amounts of boost with such a device- maybe 6 PSI. Also, these boxes are pricey, and by the time you add an external ignition controller (like a Bipes ACU) you've priced yourself into the next category, which is...
The piggyback ECU. Several on the market, but the Greddy eManage Ultimate (EMU) is the popularity contest winner. Figure on spending $700 or so to cover the unit, the MAP sensor, and some cable harnesses. This will get you fairly good fuel and timing control. At this level, you can toss your AFM/MAF on the shelf.
The ultimate of course in the full standalone. Again, lots of options, from the Hydra (pricey, but supported by FM) to the Megasquirt which is pretty much a full-on DIY solution. There's a plug-n-play Megasquirt avaliable for the '90-'93 Miatas, everything else you're going to be brushing up on your soldering skills. Problematic in later cars if you need a functional OBD-II port for emissions inspections or if you have an ECU-controlled alternator ('99+ I think).
Having a wideband exhaust O2 sensor is a good idea no matter what you do, and more or less a requirement for the Piggyback and standalone options.
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