Its because he has little or no intake tract.
It recirculates inside the valve but the air coming in is no match for the speed of sound coming out and there is little restriction to the sound through the small intake path/unrestricted filter. Dann |
Originally Posted by cyotani
(Post 1360194)
Love the build!
Interested to see if these EFR turbos don't have boost creep issues like the garret turbos. The internal waste gate design looks to be much better at bypassing flow. |
Originally Posted by ramensoop
(Post 1360179)
Can't get the stage 8 stuff to fit, so I'm going to replace those with some copper locking nuts.]
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You just need to sand the tabs down a little sometimes, its all good.
Dann |
Every time req fuel has been off for my friends and I, it has been a mater of inccorect dead time settings.
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Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1360206)
You just need to sand the tabs down a little sometimes, its all good.
Dann I ended up using Stage 8 on three of the four studs and just used a OEM nut from Nissan on that one stud. Held up well. Great build! |
added a flex fuel sensor, headed to the dyno tomorrow. still only on 5lb spring pressure.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b6cbba1c9b.jpg |
Did you ever solve the reqFuel issue? I just bought ID1000s yesterday and am going to be installing them soon. What MS settings are you running for them?
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Originally Posted by JD8
(Post 1366904)
Did you ever solve the reqFuel issue? I just bought ID1000s yesterday and am going to be installing them soon. What MS settings are you running for them?
my fuel table. Should figure it out today. |
Originally Posted by RalliartRsX
(Post 1360284)
Unfortunately the EFR's wastegate discharge does not allow much more than a small nut and washer below it as it interferes with the stud.
I ended up using Stage 8 on three of the four studs and just used a OEM nut from Nissan on that one stud. Held up well. Great build!
Originally Posted by MiataMan00
(Post 1360202)
Me too :bang:
Originally Posted by ramensoop
(Post 1360179)
Can't get the stage 8 stuff to fit, so I'm going to replace those with some copper locking nuts.
@Savington at TSE makes some. |
No, even with my TSE studs the stage 8 hardware didnt want to go on. It would fit over the stud just fine, but there wasnt enough clearance for the big teardrop peice to fit next to the turbo. I had to cut some material off.
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Oh yeah, I ground the shit out of my stage 8 downpipe bolts.
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I have the tse stud/stage 8 kit. I'll just file down the locks a bit to fit.
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Yah ur gonna have to do that. After my track day I noticed that they fell off somehow. :dunno:
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1366955)
See above. Still won't fit. Nissan's studs are Inconel and are ~$4-5 vs a full TSE stud kit. It's worked just fine for me with standard hardware. I also ended up using Norlock washers and after 8-9 trackdays (one with 100+ degree outside temps for the entire day), no issues with backing out. I also made sure to hang the downpipe correctly and that alleviated a majority of my problems. I was also only 3-320 WHP on my 240, so also not full 400WHP heat issues. |
Originally Posted by RalliartRsX
(Post 1366999)
See above. Still won't fit.
Nissan's studs are Inconel and are ~$4-5 vs a full TSE stud kit. It's worked just fine for me with standard hardware. I also ended up using Norlock washers and after 8-9 trackdays (one with 100+ degree outside temps for the entire day), no issues with backing out. I also made sure to hang the downpipe correctly and that alleviated a majority of my problems. I was also only 3-320 WHP on my 240, so also not full 400WHP heat issues. |
Not sure what I'm seeing. The TSE EFR studs take that into account. IIRC one is shorter than the rest.
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aidandj, The issue is not with stud length, but with the locking hardware. The Stage 8 stuff is a fair bit taller (considering the locking shank or whatever it is called) is itself 1-2 mms thick. Anything apart from a standard nut, regardless of stud length, suffer from a severe lack of room. The wastegate discharge runs right over one of the studs in most cases.
Here is an example. A shorter stud does help, but not with Stage 8 or any other hardware that adds height. It seems the TSE kit uses the standard locking hardware as well. I am not seeing where they include a shorter stud?? According to their directions 3) Reinstall your turbocharger and install the four provided Stage 8 fasteners. On the lower, rear-most fastener, apply Resbond 907TS to the threads of the stud/nut. The Stage 8 retainer/clip interferes with the turbine housing. Tighten all nuts to approximately 10-15 ft.lbs. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6c8dcc4d79.jpg
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1367014)
Backing out isn't the issue we use inconel studs to solve. The issue that miata's have with studs is them stretching. It is also people who are a good bit faster then spec miata times that have the issues.
The SR20DET (what I used for track days and such) guys have suffered this just as long, if not longer, than Miata guys. I am on the throttle at Summit main a fair bit with just 200 TW tires for it to be problem for me initially. |
Originally Posted by RalliartRsX
(Post 1367037)
The Stage 8 stuff is a fair bit taller (considering the locking shank or whatever it is called) is itself 1-2 mms thick. Anything apart from a standard nut, regardless of stud length, suffer from a severe lack of room. The wastegate discharge runs right over one of the studs in most cases.
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Thanks savington. I had had several housings with the varying molds and I have had the pleasure (or displeasure.......) of experiencing all of them :D. That directly affected the effective volume one had available in that specific area.
The picture above is not mine directly, but was one of the newer housing molds for reference. The older molds made it impossible in that area. |
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