Not sure how I missed this. Don't waste your money on copper lock nuts. They are as good as butter when being used to lock the turbine housing to the exhaust manifold flange. They won't last ........They lasted about 5 mins within the first session of my trackday before they all stretched and rattled loose. Considering the cost, don't bother


Either get TSE's hardware kit or use cheap Nissan Inconel Studs and associated locking hardware. Stage 8 and Nordlock are a minimum. I used 1 (it comes with two counter directional locking washers by default) locking washer on the turbine discharge stud with a nut and the full 2 locking washer setup on the remaining 3 with Nissan studs and nuts.

Well, turns out the turbosmart IWG with a 5psi spring doesn't really work. holds 6.5psi to about 4k rpm then settles in at 11psi. I'll mess with the preload a bit and see what happens, but I'm going to get the low boost EFR IWG and go from there. Overall way more power than i was planning but it runs great, and didn't end up doing anything with E85. I'll get the spare engine built up, then we'll go for allofit on E.

The run in the video was 239hp 190tq with a 7000rpm soft redline. We upped it to 7500 and got the 246/195. Split the difference and set it at 7200.





https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d9d84ff962.jpg

Nice flat torque around 200. That will be good on your trans and motor.

Make sure you've got it clocked correctly. EFRs are extremely particular about the alignment between the actuator and the flapper/turbine housing. Two degrees off and it's boost creep city.

He said ewg. I assume he's using a vband housing with no iwg?

Just looked back at the thread. He means turbosmart internal waste gate actuator. Totally different than EWG.

That's the one I plan on running. Hope you get it working a little better.

Maybe try actuating it with some compressed air and see if you get full travel.

My bad, in my excitement I mistyped. Edited the post for correctness.

I just used some some compressed air and it cracks at around 6.5, fully open at 16. Seems to be moving freely, but Ill take it it off the turbo tomorrow to see if it's any different.

That would be the other test. I have one, but it's got 14psi springs inside it so it wouldn't exhibit the same symptoms if the throw isn't long enough.

14psi can should just be two 7psi springs. You can always pull the inner and see how it works.

Wastegate was definitely binding. This was how it lined up. Clocked the center section a few degrees to where it would slide right on (twss). I still think the 2 turns of preload is a bit much for the 5psi spring, but I'm happy where its at. Holds 8psi very linear, one or two creeps to 9/10psi.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e3961eff20.jpg

Thanks for help!

As for the idle cells being around 80 VE, not really sure. Tuner even said its weird, but we agreed that its happy there so no sense in messing with it.

I had a similar issue of idle cells being super high years ago when I was on DW1000 injectors. No clue why it had to be that high. My concern with it was running out of resolution in boost due to starting so high. I changed to ID1000's and now my idle cells are in the 30's.

I dont have any of the dyno logs yet, so can't post a comparison...but the boost looks much better.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0cf7fd0e39.jpg




Thats why I thought it was weird, since you (and everyone else) with ID1000s are in the 30s.

Aside from the high idle VE, everything else looks good. The highest cell value is 117, still a ways away from the 255 max and the injectors are at about 50%. Idle PW is around 1.6

:bigtu:

The easiest way to get it right is to set the turbo on a workbench with the turbine outlet down. Loosen up the CHRA-turbine bolts, then tighten them until they are just barely finger tight. Put the wastegate can on, but leave the lower/preload nut off. When the wastegate alignment is correct, the flapper will fall off the actuator under its own weight. You can check this by putting the flapper on the actuator rod, misaligning the turbo, then slowly rotating the turbo until it falls off. Once it falls off, throw a sharpie mark on the CHRA/turbine so you know where correct is, tighten down the 4 bolts, and go.

Doing it on the car is a little more finnicky, but still doable. You want the flapper arm to slide totally freely on the actuator rod. If it feels tight at all, rotate the CHRA 1-2deg at a time until it frees up.

Exactly what I did, seems to have done the trick. I'll remember the bench setup for when I change out for a 6758 :D

Now back off that preload and see if you can actually hold 5psi. That is what interests me the most.

im at the recommended two turns preload, but will try backing it off.

should be able to get some datalogs next week.

also going to wire in RSW from the dash...

-very slight difference with 1 vs 2 turns preload, still around 8psi will creep up to 10/11ish at the top end.

-ZERO preload, just enough to hold the flapper shut... 7psi mostly with a max of 9.3.

I haven't really studied the turbo response between the three in the logs, but the car feels faster with 2 turns preload. Makes sense because the 'gate isnt cracking open as early.

I'm mostly curious if backpressure is blowing the gate open, or if ebc will be able to hold it shut with a dual port actuator.

Gotcha. I didn't realize that a dual port was available until after I bought this one.

I probably won't start messing with EBC until i get the built motor finished.

So I can confidently say, I had a terrible time setting up the several OTS EBCs, Greddy and Apexi to name a few, to work with the EFR wastegate setup. The Turbosmart ones seems to be more capable. However, at the price point of the specific EFR boost controller that FR sells, I rather buy a $20 MAC valve and go to town on a stand alone ECU. I have had much more success with this method and can easily set up upper limits, individual cell duty cycle, boost by gear, temp dependent settings, etc etc etc. I am not entirely sure, but it seems the wastegate diaphragms in the EFRs have a terrible time with the OTS EBCs. I thought it was just me, but I have seen several others on the Nissan forum experience the same issue (inconsistent boost control).

For instance: The Greddy has a load and gain adjustment value. Unfortunately, it tapers on the upper end, and no matter what you set it to it will taper boost off on the upper end essentially running out of resolution up top (or something to that effect). It did not possess enough resolution to correct for the higher RPM and flow and It required much too much work to get the correct Gain and Duty cycle setting for an individual boost setting. By going to the MAC valve, I had much more control over the individual load cells and could adjust duty cycle to prevent the boost curve from tapering off. That is what is lacking in most aftermarket OTS EBCs: resolution or correction in order to control the EFR gate setup throughout the rev range and the ability to adjust signal based off a target "boost" or target "duty cycle" based on ECU being used. 50% duty cycle @ 3000 RPM yields wildly different results as 50% duty cycle @ 6500 RPM.



This was on a single port, but I have a hunch the same issue will arise on the dual port. This is just my opinion, but hopefully useful to someone else. I may be explaining it incorrectly, but this is what I came up with :)