Have a look at the posts above, if you didn't change any other settings then boost control wasn't activating the valve.

easiest way to do it is the test mode aidandj posted

but really you should stop blowing your car and start driving it. Took me about 5 pulls to get things figured out

Excuse my noobness, but I'm a little confused, theres just been many people saying different things so I ned someone to set me straight.

So what am I looking for while doing a pull with the test mode active? I understand I'm trying to achieve the fastest spool but what in TS will show me results? and do I set the pulse frequency to my solenoid frequency?

Test mode is only used if you want to do the blow test to verify your valve is working.

Otherwise you need to start tuning open loop as outlined previously or in closed loop setup mode.

if you need more help with the subject maybe start a new discussion so this thread doesn't turn into "how to boost control"

Yep good idea. ill do that now.

I used to use a GReddy Profec B Spec II (gotta love those Japanese product names) with my Hydra and 2560. The Hydra EBC was useless, the GReddy worked quite well and was fairly straightforward to set up. MS3 1.3.x wasn't quite as stable and was a bit more complex to set up, but offered TPS-based boost control which was enough of an improvement that I ditched the GReddy at that point. MS3 1.4.x is better in all ways than the GReddy was.

--Ian

getting things dialed in with the 3psi spring, looks like it will work well for 8-9psi. much easier to tune the boost control than i thought it would be.

i read a few posts about skipping OL and going straight for CL with MS3, and i have to agree. instead of having to tune the whole table its just tuning for a specific target.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...68d6b5891e.png

Finally got around to swapping the right front knuckle and hub to one from an ABS car. Vss1 & 2 are working, just need to fiddle with the calibration on the dakota digital box to see about getting them closer. Vss2 reads about 1.5mph higher at 65.

What are you using the dakota digital box for?

using it as a VR conditioner for the ABS speed sensor. was going to use a jbperf vr conditioner but he didn't have any ready when I was ordering parts. i still ended up ordering one just in case the dakota didn't work.

Gotcha makes sense. Make sure the input settings are the same for the megasquirt. No sensor lag or anything

I just left it at the default 50 lag factor on both inputs, i'll see what it does without that. both feeds are looking good on the logs. except the abs sensor speed drops off below 4mph, which i assume is just because the frequency isn't high enough at the low speed.

I'll have to look at my logs, but i think it should work that low. The amplitude of the VR signal will be quite small though, so the dakota box might not be catching it?

you may be correct there, when hand spinning the wheel it doesn't indicate a signal input(its got a flashy led when its getting an input) until you get to what shows as 4mph on the tunerstudio gauge. i just assumed the gear resloution...

i'll give the jbperf board a shot whenever it arrives.

I'll try and remember to check tonight

Swapped out the turbosmart single for the dual port wastegate, also replaced the BW bpv with the turbosmart version. Had to make a hardware run so didn't get to wire in the 4 port mac solenoid, will get that done tomorrow along with retuning closed loop boost.

I should also add that with 2 turns preload on the 3psi spring the wastegate actuator would rattle, added another turn and it stopped.

long story short I got a ticket for having SD plates on the car. tried the texas kit car registration route and found out at the auto theft inspection that my donor came with a swapped engine, so I technically have no proof of ownership for the engine since the stamped serial number doesn't match the vin on my title...BUMMER!

but found a built bottom end nearby that I'll be able to have a bill of sale for. Was planning to build my own but the price was right.

Wiseco 84mm 10.5:1 pistons, molnar rods, king steel lined bearings (from a kia i guess), torque plate bored/honed and some super awesome PINK paint. Came with a head thats been ported and flow tested...I'll quote the seller

will be running E85 always. hope to get it on the dyno mid May. Already ordered ATI damper, Boundary stage 2+, TSE oil cooler kit. Will probably just swap heads for now and build up the ported one over the next couple months.

Pics just beacuse

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ec13287292.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dd36371bc1.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a8e9182b7.jpeg

VIN is on the oil pan. Just buy one with a BOS and swap it on. I would have to do the same with my car for the same reason if I tried to build a kit from it.

vin on oil pan matches. its the stamped serial number on the block that doesn't match the VIN.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dccc09eae1.png

Whelp, I have learned something. And that is super anoying.