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-   -   Exocet EFR (https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/exocet-efr-88259/)

aidandj 11-14-2016 12:33 AM

That would be min. Then start from 100 and work your way down to find max.

icantlearn 11-14-2016 12:40 AM


Originally Posted by aidandj (Post 1374284)
That would be min. Then start from 100 and work your way down to find max.

even when max was at 0 it didnt change anything when blowing into it. So why would it change while driving?

RalliartRsX 11-14-2016 12:42 AM

Correct, minimum

I have used some basic math to get within my desired boost vs duty cycle

For instance if you want to run 10psi on a 7psi wastegate. That is a 43.01% increase in boost. I ended up running 45% duty to achieve the desired psi.

aidandj 11-14-2016 12:43 AM


Originally Posted by MiataMan00 (Post 1374286)
even when max was at 0 it didnt change anything when blowing into it. So why would it change while driving?

Dunno. Yours must be broken.

You were using test mode to test it?

RalliartRsX 11-14-2016 12:46 AM


Originally Posted by MiataMan00 (Post 1374286)
even when max was at 0 it didnt change anything when blowing into it. So why would it change while driving?

The mouth blow test is not necessarily a good test IMHO and not very reliable/consistent (I cannot control how much air pressure I can exhale on a consistent basis). I have found using a bicycle pump with a gauge as a cheap option to test my MAC/solenoid or an air compressor with a gauge that you can adjust the psi output. All the MAC valve is doing is cycling the amount of pressure/vacuum the diaphragm is seeing (two port, vs single port for example). Nothing fancy

I also used the bicycle pump method to calibrate the EFR wastegate to compare preload vs wastegate crack pressure. The above math, wastegate pressure test and MAC test got me a good baseline without even starting the car and running the risk of running max duty cycle. That seems like a quick way to ventilate a block as compared to working your way from a known baseline.

aidandj 11-14-2016 12:49 AM

Set over boost correctly and don't be a retard?

Theres no need to spool it to 25 psi. Go full throttle until 10ish psi and lift. Do this a bunch while lowering duty cycle and compare logs.

It's not rocket science. You can do it in 10 minutes.

RalliartRsX 11-14-2016 12:53 AM

..........Or you can just set it up prior to this??

Not being a retard, but I have found the EFR diaphragms to be somewhat inconsistent.What I suggested removes much of the guessing work.

Yes, you can do the overboost protection. Not denying that for sure. But why not get within your desired pressures before even driving off the block??

More than one ways to skin a cat I guess :)

aidandj 11-14-2016 12:55 AM

Sure. But arguing that you are going to ventilate a block is silly. If you manage to do that you probably shouldn't be tuning your own car.

RalliartRsX 11-14-2016 12:59 AM

SO here is a question: If you are not entirely sure what psi the max duty cycle equates to, but are not willing to spool to 25psi (or whatever the upper limit is, or simply you are not entirely sure just how much duty cycle your engine can take or what the EFR gate will actually allow), how will you find the upper limit if you have overboost protection?? So unless your overboost protection is close to max duty cycle (which you have not figured out as of yet), how are you both finding the upper limit and also not essentially going off strictly wastegate with no signal??

Not trying to argue, just curious of another method.

I am just leery of going straight to 100% duty cycle on a EFR diaphragm. Just preferential and cautious as I have had inconsistency with the "stock" EFR diaphragms :(

aidandj 11-14-2016 01:02 AM

You look at the spool. When your spool slows down the go back up a little bit and call that your max.

At max duty you will spool your turbo as fast as possible. As soon as you go below max then above wastegate pressure spool will slow down. It might actually slow down before that if the wastegate is cracking open early.

So you need to spool to higher than wastegate pressure. But not much more.

RalliartRsX 11-14-2016 01:25 AM

Aha! I see the discrepancy in what we are discussing: you are discussing "gain" duty cycle (spool) and I'm referring to boost duty cycle :)


aidandj 11-14-2016 01:26 AM

For the purpose of boost control tuning they are the same though.

icantlearn 11-14-2016 01:36 AM


Originally Posted by aidandj (Post 1374288)
Dunno. Yours must be broken.

You were using test mode to test it?

test mode?

rharris19 11-14-2016 10:17 AM

Have you already gone through the titling process or are you claiming it as a body kit for the Miata and retaining the Miata VIN?

OGRacing 11-14-2016 12:06 PM

Looks like it's going to be a boat load of fun.

aidandj 11-14-2016 12:07 PM


Originally Posted by MiataMan00 (Post 1374300)
test mode?

Tuner studio has a test mode. You can set the outputs to whatever duty cycle you want. How were you trying to test it before?

ramensoop 11-14-2016 05:01 PM


Originally Posted by RalliartRsX (Post 1374293)
So unless your overboost protection is close to max duty cycle (which you have not figured out as of yet), how are you both finding the upper limit and also not essentially going off strictly wastegate with no signal??

Not trying to argue, just curious of another method.

I am just leery of going straight to 100% duty cycle on a EFR diaphragm. Just preferential and cautious as I have had inconsistency with the "stock" EFR diaphragms :(

1) overboost has nothing to do with the solenoid duty cycle. you set spark cut, fuel cut, or both. you set a max kpa and if it hits that then its like hitting the rev limiter.
2) you can't run LESS than whatever the wastegate is rated for. 100% duty will be the same for whatever wastegate as it will see no signal, which will be allofit unless back pressure overcomes spring pressure. not sure what you're getting at there. For example, I set my overboost to 180kpa. Made runs to find what duty got me 140, 150, 170. MS3 closed loop setup mode makes this easier because it holds 100% duty until within Xkpa of your target.


Originally Posted by rharris19 (Post 1374357)
Have you already gone through the titling process or are you claiming it as a body kit for the Miata and retaining the Miata VIN?

I am registered through South Dakota, PM if you want more info


Originally Posted by aidandj (Post 1374399)
Tuner studio has a test mode. You can set the outputs to whatever duty cycle you want. How were you trying to test it before?

Unless you change your idle control settings to boost and use the idle test, I didn't see a test mode for the boost solenoid. I just changed the settings to allow it to operate at idle and changed the values in the OL table

aidandj 11-14-2016 05:08 PM

Output testmode - I/O.

PP3 - Boost.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a4034e1282.png

Set frequency and then increase duty cycle.

ramensoop 11-14-2016 05:12 PM


Originally Posted by aidandj (Post 1374489)
Output testmode - I/O.

PP3 - Boost.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a4034e1282.png

Set frequency and then increase duty cycle.

well look at that, didn't even think to look in there... :doh:

icantlearn 11-14-2016 11:16 PM


Originally Posted by aidandj (Post 1374399)
Tuner studio has a test mode. You can set the outputs to whatever duty cycle you want. How were you trying to test it before?

Is it under boost control settings? I was just adjusting %, burning, then blowing into the valve.


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