DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Exocet EFR

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Old 11-14-2016, 12:33 AM
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That would be min. Then start from 100 and work your way down to find max.
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Old 11-14-2016, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
That would be min. Then start from 100 and work your way down to find max.
even when max was at 0 it didnt change anything when blowing into it. So why would it change while driving?
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Old 11-14-2016, 12:42 AM
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Correct, minimum

I have used some basic math to get within my desired boost vs duty cycle

For instance if you want to run 10psi on a 7psi wastegate. That is a 43.01% increase in boost. I ended up running 45% duty to achieve the desired psi.
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Old 11-14-2016, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by MiataMan00
even when max was at 0 it didnt change anything when blowing into it. So why would it change while driving?
Dunno. Yours must be broken.

You were using test mode to test it?
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Old 11-14-2016, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by MiataMan00
even when max was at 0 it didnt change anything when blowing into it. So why would it change while driving?
The mouth blow test is not necessarily a good test IMHO and not very reliable/consistent (I cannot control how much air pressure I can exhale on a consistent basis). I have found using a bicycle pump with a gauge as a cheap option to test my MAC/solenoid or an air compressor with a gauge that you can adjust the psi output. All the MAC valve is doing is cycling the amount of pressure/vacuum the diaphragm is seeing (two port, vs single port for example). Nothing fancy

I also used the bicycle pump method to calibrate the EFR wastegate to compare preload vs wastegate crack pressure. The above math, wastegate pressure test and MAC test got me a good baseline without even starting the car and running the risk of running max duty cycle. That seems like a quick way to ventilate a block as compared to working your way from a known baseline.
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Old 11-14-2016, 12:49 AM
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Set over boost correctly and don't be a retard?

Theres no need to spool it to 25 psi. Go full throttle until 10ish psi and lift. Do this a bunch while lowering duty cycle and compare logs.

It's not rocket science. You can do it in 10 minutes.
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Old 11-14-2016, 12:53 AM
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..........Or you can just set it up prior to this??

Not being a retard, but I have found the EFR diaphragms to be somewhat inconsistent.What I suggested removes much of the guessing work.

Yes, you can do the overboost protection. Not denying that for sure. But why not get within your desired pressures before even driving off the block??

More than one ways to skin a cat I guess
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Old 11-14-2016, 12:55 AM
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Sure. But arguing that you are going to ventilate a block is silly. If you manage to do that you probably shouldn't be tuning your own car.
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Old 11-14-2016, 12:59 AM
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SO here is a question: If you are not entirely sure what psi the max duty cycle equates to, but are not willing to spool to 25psi (or whatever the upper limit is, or simply you are not entirely sure just how much duty cycle your engine can take or what the EFR gate will actually allow), how will you find the upper limit if you have overboost protection?? So unless your overboost protection is close to max duty cycle (which you have not figured out as of yet), how are you both finding the upper limit and also not essentially going off strictly wastegate with no signal??

Not trying to argue, just curious of another method.

I am just leery of going straight to 100% duty cycle on a EFR diaphragm. Just preferential and cautious as I have had inconsistency with the "stock" EFR diaphragms :(
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Old 11-14-2016, 01:02 AM
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You look at the spool. When your spool slows down the go back up a little bit and call that your max.

At max duty you will spool your turbo as fast as possible. As soon as you go below max then above wastegate pressure spool will slow down. It might actually slow down before that if the wastegate is cracking open early.

So you need to spool to higher than wastegate pressure. But not much more.
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Old 11-14-2016, 01:25 AM
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Aha! I see the discrepancy in what we are discussing: you are discussing "gain" duty cycle (spool) and I'm referring to boost duty cycle

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Old 11-14-2016, 01:26 AM
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For the purpose of boost control tuning they are the same though.
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Old 11-14-2016, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Dunno. Yours must be broken.

You were using test mode to test it?
test mode?
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Old 11-14-2016, 10:17 AM
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Have you already gone through the titling process or are you claiming it as a body kit for the Miata and retaining the Miata VIN?
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Old 11-14-2016, 12:06 PM
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Looks like it's going to be a boat load of fun.
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Old 11-14-2016, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MiataMan00
test mode?
Tuner studio has a test mode. You can set the outputs to whatever duty cycle you want. How were you trying to test it before?
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Old 11-14-2016, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by RalliartRsX
So unless your overboost protection is close to max duty cycle (which you have not figured out as of yet), how are you both finding the upper limit and also not essentially going off strictly wastegate with no signal??

Not trying to argue, just curious of another method.

I am just leery of going straight to 100% duty cycle on a EFR diaphragm. Just preferential and cautious as I have had inconsistency with the "stock" EFR diaphragms :(
1) overboost has nothing to do with the solenoid duty cycle. you set spark cut, fuel cut, or both. you set a max kpa and if it hits that then its like hitting the rev limiter.
2) you can't run LESS than whatever the wastegate is rated for. 100% duty will be the same for whatever wastegate as it will see no signal, which will be allofit unless back pressure overcomes spring pressure. not sure what you're getting at there. For example, I set my overboost to 180kpa. Made runs to find what duty got me 140, 150, 170. MS3 closed loop setup mode makes this easier because it holds 100% duty until within Xkpa of your target.

Originally Posted by rharris19
Have you already gone through the titling process or are you claiming it as a body kit for the Miata and retaining the Miata VIN?
I am registered through South Dakota, PM if you want more info

Originally Posted by aidandj
Tuner studio has a test mode. You can set the outputs to whatever duty cycle you want. How were you trying to test it before?
Unless you change your idle control settings to boost and use the idle test, I didn't see a test mode for the boost solenoid. I just changed the settings to allow it to operate at idle and changed the values in the OL table
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Old 11-14-2016, 05:08 PM
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Output testmode - I/O.

PP3 - Boost.



Set frequency and then increase duty cycle.
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Old 11-14-2016, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Output testmode - I/O.

PP3 - Boost.



Set frequency and then increase duty cycle.
well look at that, didn't even think to look in there...
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Old 11-14-2016, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Tuner studio has a test mode. You can set the outputs to whatever duty cycle you want. How were you trying to test it before?
Is it under boost control settings? I was just adjusting %, burning, then blowing into the valve.
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