From Ghetto T25 2 T3 whizbanger
#66
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 8,091
Total Cats: 7
Album Updated
Had to cut 0.5" off the studs provided with the BEGI manifold, they interfered with the downpipe flange of the turbo. They were simply too tall so I took the dremel cut-off wheel to them.
Also made a EGR tube blockoff plate. You can see the old solution where the tube was cut, crimped and brazed shut. I decided to finally make the plate because I will need the tube out of the way for the coolant reroute. After cutting and drilling the plate I flattened one side with a 1/4" piece of glass and 200 grit sandpaper.
Had to cut 0.5" off the studs provided with the BEGI manifold, they interfered with the downpipe flange of the turbo. They were simply too tall so I took the dremel cut-off wheel to them.
Also made a EGR tube blockoff plate. You can see the old solution where the tube was cut, crimped and brazed shut. I decided to finally make the plate because I will need the tube out of the way for the coolant reroute. After cutting and drilling the plate I flattened one side with a 1/4" piece of glass and 200 grit sandpaper.
#69
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 8,091
Total Cats: 7
The timing belt and waterpump swap went great from what I can tell thus far. I still have alot to do concerning the coolant reroute and godspeed radiator install.
I also decided to build my own downpipe and exhaust and I'm returning the BEGI downpipe because of fitment issues.
Ordered tubing today, hopefully get it by the end of the week if not i'll be fabing things up next week.
I also decided to build my own downpipe and exhaust and I'm returning the BEGI downpipe because of fitment issues.
Ordered tubing today, hopefully get it by the end of the week if not i'll be fabing things up next week.
#70
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 8,091
Total Cats: 7
Downpipe is done and half installed.
Keep in mind this is my first downpipe and my first time tig welding anything and definitely my first time doing anything with stainless. Its been a real treat doing something like this.
This one shows the use of nordlocks.
This shows how my oil drain is different. Its placed further back and there is a turbo drain flange bolted to the oil pan.
Keep in mind this is my first downpipe and my first time tig welding anything and definitely my first time doing anything with stainless. Its been a real treat doing something like this.
This one shows the use of nordlocks.
This shows how my oil drain is different. Its placed further back and there is a turbo drain flange bolted to the oil pan.
Last edited by cjernigan; 05-10-2008 at 10:34 PM.
#73
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 8,091
Total Cats: 7
Oh yeah, the flanges are mild, O2 bungs are 304, all of the tubing except the piece before and after the flex is stainless as well. The tubing connected to the flex is aluminized. I ran out of stainless.
#74
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 8,091
Total Cats: 7
Got the car running tonight, only running wastegate pressure at 7 psi but its good to have boost back.
I'm running open downpipe and its loud as all #*@k so I feel like an idiot driving around town. Everyone wants to race, kind of ridiculous. Anyway, its all good thus far with no leaks it appears.
I'm running open downpipe and its loud as all #*@k so I feel like an idiot driving around town. Everyone wants to race, kind of ridiculous. Anyway, its all good thus far with no leaks it appears.
#76
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 8,091
Total Cats: 7
I went with the T3 because I wanted a turbo capable of 300 rwhp instead of 220 hp.
A flex section is not required but when using stainless especially I recommend one. The rubber exhaust hangers will move alot with the engine so you really don't have to have one. I just wanted to lengthen the life of my downpipe as much as possible.
A flex section is not required but when using stainless especially I recommend one. The rubber exhaust hangers will move alot with the engine so you really don't have to have one. I just wanted to lengthen the life of my downpipe as much as possible.
#77
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 8,091
Total Cats: 7
New setup including godspeed radiator with 12" slim fans. BEGI T3 manifold, T3 50 trim, Tial 38mm WG, downpipe by me.
My huge air filter.
Three fingers of clearance between the sway bar and slim fans compared to no room with the stock fans.
Album shown here http://picasaweb.google.com/cjernigan/T3TurboSwap
My huge air filter.
Three fingers of clearance between the sway bar and slim fans compared to no room with the stock fans.
Album shown here http://picasaweb.google.com/cjernigan/T3TurboSwap
#79
2 quick questions
Hey Chad,
2 questions:
1. Do you recommend I source Nord-Locks for my Begi-S kit? Am I likely to see issues with that manifold?
2. Are there any issues with where you chose to tap the oil return? It's different than where most folks seem to tap. Any advantages on a 1.6 for going your route?
Your new setup looks sweet!
Thanks,
Jim
2 questions:
1. Do you recommend I source Nord-Locks for my Begi-S kit? Am I likely to see issues with that manifold?
2. Are there any issues with where you chose to tap the oil return? It's different than where most folks seem to tap. Any advantages on a 1.6 for going your route?
Your new setup looks sweet!
Thanks,
Jim
#80
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 8,091
Total Cats: 7
1. You can get them from your local Fastenal or you can order straight from nordlock I believe or maybe even ebay. You might have to mix and match nuts to fit on the cast iron manifold. Some of the nut reliefs are not large enough for oversize wrench flat nuts.
2. I bought my car turbo charged but hated the turbo setup that came on it. This is what I have replaced my old setup with. The previous owner pulled the motor and rebuilt it. At the same time they installed a flange on the oil pan. You cannot drill and tap that location with the engine in the car.
I recommend using the location that everyone and their brother uses.
2. I bought my car turbo charged but hated the turbo setup that came on it. This is what I have replaced my old setup with. The previous owner pulled the motor and rebuilt it. At the same time they installed a flange on the oil pan. You cannot drill and tap that location with the engine in the car.
I recommend using the location that everyone and their brother uses.
Hey Chad,
2 questions:
1. Do you recommend I source Nord-Locks for my Begi-S kit? Am I likely to see issues with that manifold?
2. Are there any issues with where you chose to tap the oil return? It's different than where most folks seem to tap. Any advantages on a 1.6 for going your route?
Your new setup looks sweet!
Thanks,
Jim
2 questions:
1. Do you recommend I source Nord-Locks for my Begi-S kit? Am I likely to see issues with that manifold?
2. Are there any issues with where you chose to tap the oil return? It's different than where most folks seem to tap. Any advantages on a 1.6 for going your route?
Your new setup looks sweet!
Thanks,
Jim