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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

ITT we discuss why my brand new 2871R seized

Old Aug 17, 2009 | 02:22 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by hustler
they probably backed out because you're a virgin.
How's your car running? Oh wait...
Old Aug 17, 2009 | 03:58 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Savington
It was nice being able to run down 996 Turbos and ****. 280whp is retarded power in this car. 3rd gear is nearly unuseable.
Yeah - 444 hp / 3630 lbs (turbo s) = 0.122314 (8.175 lb/hp crank)
* 2500 lb car: 305 crank hp, *2300 lb car 280 crank hp.

I'm sure your car weighs less, and 250 whp is certainly something you've been able to put together. Wish I could have been there.
Old Aug 17, 2009 | 04:52 PM
  #43  
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safety wire is really the only way to go besides v-band i guess... there's a reason you have to safety wire a lot of **** to pass most race tech inspections...
Old Aug 17, 2009 | 05:08 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by NickC
safety wire is really the only way to go besides v-band i guess... there's a reason you have to safety wire a lot of **** to pass most race tech inspections...
It would be pretty slick if you could v-band the housings to the bearing house.
Old Aug 17, 2009 | 09:53 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by hustler
It would be pretty slick if you could v-band the housings to the bearing house.
yeah, i wasn't sure if that existed hence the "i guess..."
Old Aug 17, 2009 | 09:57 PM
  #46  
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There are larger turbos that are like that. Nothing in the T3 or T4 category that I know of.
Old Aug 17, 2009 | 10:16 PM
  #47  
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Besides drilling the heads of the bolts for safety wire, could it be easier to waterjet some thin sheet stock that's a little longer than the plates that hold on the turbine...bend tangs up onto the side of the bolt hex head to keep it from rotating? There's something on the car that uses this; I remember having to hammer them flat to remove the bolts.
Old Aug 17, 2009 | 10:16 PM
  #48  
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That sounds like a great plan actually. Much more simple.
Old Aug 17, 2009 | 11:33 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by neogenesis2004
That sounds like a great plan actually. Much more simple.
Thanks...

For something quick n dirty, you (I) could cut some out with the cutoff wheel and clean em up with a belt sander. I got my mockup chinese turbo here I can get the bolt pattern off of. I'll get some .030 or so sheet from mcmaster. If you want.
Old Aug 18, 2009 | 12:15 AM
  #50  
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McMaster should sell bolts with the heads already drilled. It's an expensive problem to have reoccur.

But let's talk about exactly how fucked I am, here:

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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 12:24 AM
  #51  
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Any chance some sand paper can fix that housing? It looks like its sticking out, not in... Turbo you'll have to ship out for garrett's exchange program.
Old Aug 18, 2009 | 01:01 AM
  #52  
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gee that's not too bad, a little buffing here and there, some JBwelGOD ******* DAMN THAT SUCKS. Sorry to hear, your build was/is inspirational on 20 different levels. What are your plans now?
Old Aug 18, 2009 | 01:10 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by neogenesis2004
Any chance some sand paper can fix that housing? It looks like its sticking out, not in... Turbo you'll have to ship out for garrett's exchange program.
You think the wheel is that bad? I might just try it. The housing can probably be saved.
Old Aug 18, 2009 | 01:12 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Savington
You think the wheel is that bad? I might just try it. The housing can probably be saved.
is this a serious response, or are you just gaying up your own thread?
Old Aug 18, 2009 | 01:28 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by hustler
It would be pretty slick if you could v-band the housings to the bearing house.
that's how mitsubishi turbo's are held together. v-band since atleast 1990 maybe earlier.

sav - for sure you could smooth out that wheel and housing. but that turbo won't be balanced anymore. could last a day or a year. try it, you've got nothing to lose.
Old Aug 18, 2009 | 01:38 AM
  #56  
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Ouch! Sucks to see that happen after all that expense. Solve one problem then another comes up.
Old Aug 18, 2009 | 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by spoolin2bars
try it, you've got nothing to lose.
except the comp housing, which would then mean I'm out $1100 vs just $750. CHRA goes to Garrett this week, I'll try and sand the housing out before I replace that.
Old Aug 18, 2009 | 09:29 AM
  #58  
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where's the picture of the turbine Splitime used to run for a while...

edit:



iirc he still made 236rwhp on it :P
Old Aug 18, 2009 | 10:34 AM
  #59  
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I still think that's like going into battle with a dull sword....those blades literally are the tip of the spear in a turbocharged system.

For how much we work to optimize everything else (COPS anybody?) I'd want the turbo to be top notch.
Old Aug 18, 2009 | 10:55 AM
  #60  
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I think the housing can be easily salvaged. the wheel probably isn't true anymore and might have enough play to hit even with a new housing.

when a screw went through mine the blades were still perfect, but it bent the wheel enough that the bottom edge of the blades rubbed against the heat-shield on the chra.

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