Just got a turbo kit & I have a few questions! - Page 6 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 01-30-2008, 07:24 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
You need a PCV installed on the line going from the valve cover to the intake manifold, not on the driver side.
Your BOV might be leaking, listen to see if you can hear it.
I have that PCV, just wondering if I needed to do one after. I know for a fact that my BOV is leaking @ idle...isn't it supposed to? The BOV is a brand new AUDI (bosch) BOV.

So when you said unplug the IAC I am pretty sure you mean once the car is warmed up. When I unplug it what should happen if the IAC is good? Also should I use diagnostic box jumper when I do this? Thanks
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Old 02-05-2008, 11:35 AM   #102
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Updated:

I went to an exhaust shop and got my Hotside IC piping fixed. Before it contained aluminum piping, silcone couplers, but also had...PVC piping, home depot couplers, and bendable exhaust tubbing. I got a GTX 323 PCV and cleaned the Intake manifold again. With all of these changes my idle is completely fixed! Now just saving for MS so I can run my WI and turn up the boost. Right now I am maxing out @ 5 psi and the turbo is loud...is this the wastegate maximum boost or does it sound like I have a leak? I will try to get a sound clip today...thanks again for all your guys help. My miata is now just as worry free as when the motor was stock, but now its like 10 times as fun.
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Old 02-06-2008, 04:29 PM   #103
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Is anyone running an heater core near the water cooled turbo? I have a new heater core sitting around and was just wondering if I would see any difference. I plan on mouting it behind the radiator to pick up the cooler air from below...it is about 9 by 8 inches. PS I am running @ 202- 208 when my car is sitting...

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Old 02-08-2008, 01:32 AM   #104
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Just checked today and I have huge shaft play...does anyone know a good rebuilder or a good cheap turbo (t2 inlet). I bought both turbos used and both were super cheap so I guess I get what was coming to me. Please let me know any good preferably local (LA) locations...thank you.
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Old 02-08-2008, 01:57 AM   #105
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gpopshop.com will sell you a kit to do it yourself for less than $75.
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Old 02-08-2008, 11:40 AM   #106
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Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
gpopshop.com will sell you a kit to do it yourself for less than $75.
I tried it once before on the old turbo and hated the process...if anyone wants to do it in the LA area I will pay...but I need it done right
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Old 02-08-2008, 11:50 AM   #107
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Ryan, Call up Church Automotive. They are local to you and do tons of tuning for FI cars and are really nice guys, I am pretty sure they can recommend a rebuilder if not themselves. Or try David on HT. He works with Jerry Built and thats a small company that is putting out huge numbers so it might be cheap
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Old 03-23-2008, 06:04 PM   #108
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Hi guys, just wanted to update this...I am now running my Progressive DOWI, along with now using a Uego to monitor my A/f...I installed a new t25 with a 8 psi wastegate. Here are some pics... Next on my list is to get MS so I can get all the power, & more importantly tuning capabilities. But as of now with the FMIC I am having no problems. Please I am open to any comments/suggestions/advice, also does anyone know a good place to it dyno'd in LA area? Now for some pictures.
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I know my oil feed is ghetto rigged along with the intake arm, but I should be taking care of these in a while...also the wheels are now polished by hand, not great quality but it gets the job done.
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Old 03-23-2008, 07:44 PM   #109
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looks good.
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Old 03-28-2008, 04:49 PM   #110
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Just bought MS two days ago...planning to run MS-II with no NA CAS. I will update this thread as I hopefully make some progress.
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Old 03-30-2008, 04:50 AM   #111
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How do your A/Fs look with stock fueling + intercooler & WI?
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Old 03-30-2008, 01:31 PM   #112
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How do your A/Fs look with stock fueling + intercooler & WI?
It seems to drive ok, but under boost even with the wi it runs lean.
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Old 04-01-2008, 12:18 PM   #113
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Originally Posted by 2kBlk View Post
How do your A/Fs look with stock fueling + intercooler & WI?
Update for this...yesterday I used the largest nozzle from my DO kit and I am now almost perfectly stoich. When I boost approximately 3-6 pounds (WI comes in @ 2psi) I am running anywhere between 13.7 - 15.1...I am super happy with it, but I will still be adding MS to it (building it next week) to actually be able to tune.
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Old 04-01-2008, 01:28 PM   #114
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i think you want to be slightly richer while in boost right? Or is being richer in boost just to help with detonation by cooling, which is what DO does?
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Old 04-01-2008, 02:49 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99NBMia View Post
Update for this...yesterday I used the largest nozzle from my DO kit and I am now almost perfectly stoich. When I boost approximately 3-6 pounds (WI comes in @ 2psi) I am running anywhere between 13.7 - 15.1...I am super happy with it, but I will still be adding MS to it (building it next week) to actually be able to tune.
So basically you are lean as **** and you need a real ECU. Don't boost on your car until your AFRs are WAY under 13:1. Most of us run in the 11.8-12.5:1 range, even with water.
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Old 04-01-2008, 04:46 PM   #116
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So basically you are lean as **** and you need a real ECU. Don't boost on your car until your AFRs are WAY under 13:1. Most of us run in the 11.8-12.5:1 range, even with water.
Lean as **** would be more like 17+. My MS will probably be operational hopefully in two weeks, but honestly why should I not boost, my set up has been going strong for a few months and I have had no problems with the car, (had to replace the turbo, because I purchased crappy used ones that were already set to fail). I have not once ever had knock/detonation, and that is a lot more then some people can say running MS.
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Old 04-01-2008, 04:52 PM   #117
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13.5:1 would be a good target for 0psi (naturally aspirated). I consider anything leaner than 13:1 on a turbo car to be lean as ****. 17:1 is where you'd lean cruise if you were trying to save gas. You're going to start melting pistons if you continue to boost on the car with AFRs in the 13.5:1 and up range.
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Old 04-01-2008, 04:52 PM   #118
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Originally Posted by 99NBMia View Post
Lean as **** would be more like 17+. My MS will probably be operational hopefully in two weeks, but honestly why should I not boost, my set up has been going strong for a few months and I have had no problems with the car, (had to replace the turbo, because I purchased crappy used ones that were already set to fail). I have not once ever had knock/detonation, and that is a lot more then some people can say running MS.


I agree with you Ryan, you car runs very very nice for no engine management. Its pretty badass.
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Old 04-01-2008, 05:02 PM   #119
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Originally Posted by 91NApeewee View Post


I agree with you Ryan, you car runs very very nice for no engine management. Its pretty badass.
Thanks, I think it is just most people are probably right, your car will run like **** without management, but I think they are only correlating that to experiences with NA's. Out of the four people I know personally who have had boosted Nb's only one of them had aftermarket management. I completely agree with people that MS, EMB (to a lesser extent ), etc is a much better way to run, but people need to see that it can be done with stock management (on NB's, NA's can have they're timing problems all day long). While I know I am nowhere near the power I desire or the gas mileage, I have comfort knowing that my set up is safe and reliable, even though it lacks my tuning desires until my MS is all set to go!!!
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Old 04-01-2008, 06:59 PM   #120
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I'm going to wait for someone else to back me up, but I really don't think 13.5:1 AFRs in boost are safe, regardless of power levels or detonation.
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