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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 12-31-2007, 03:24 PM   #41
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I got my FMIC mounted, it fit actually quite nicely. I used the idea above with purchasing the metal from home depot. A circular saw with a metal blade made the job way easier than expected. I will be running 330cc injectors with my stock ECU. I am relying on my knock to retard the timing if needed. I am also installing a DO WI kit to help with detination. I am hoping to get it all done this Saturday...wish me luck!
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Old 12-31-2007, 06:11 PM   #42
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I ran a voodoo box at 8 psi, never saw leaner than 12.3-12.5 in boost. I ran stock ECU timing and never heard any detonation. That was with stock injectors. With the DO kit you should be alright. Just be careful with it.
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Old 12-31-2007, 06:17 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
I ran a voodoo box at 8 psi, never saw leaner than 12.3-12.5 in boost. I ran stock ECU timing and never heard any detonation. That was with stock injectors. With the DO kit you should be alright. Just be careful with it.
for sure, I will be watching/ listening for any problems...what would I do in regards to the tapped pan if I did need to remove it? Would it be easier to put a plug on top of the nipple or unscrew it and place in a similar thread bolt. It's not that big of a deal, just wondering if anyone has had to deal with that. thanks
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Old 12-31-2007, 06:18 PM   #44
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You should JB Weld the threads of the fitting you screw in the oil pan. It would be easier to just put a cap on the barbed end if you needed to remove it.
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Old 12-31-2007, 06:22 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
You should JB Weld the threads of the fitting you screw in the oil pan. It would be easier to just put a cap on the barbed end if you needed to remove it.
awesome, sorry for all the questions...what about spark plugs will my stock NGK plugs and wires "blue" be ok, or should I go to a colder plug? If so what is the P/N? Thanks
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Old 12-31-2007, 09:30 PM   #46
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You can go one step colder, I think you want NGK BKR7Es, they come gapped to .35, you can keep them there or close them up to .3. You NGK wires will be fine unless they're old and falling apart. Pretty sure that the 7s are the right one. You might have them already. Either way, if you haven't changed plugs in a while, you should do it anyway.
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Old 01-01-2008, 09:31 PM   #47
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Thanks, today I was working on routing the piping, I have a old Volvo BOV it should turn out nice!
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Old 01-03-2008, 05:30 PM   #48
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Starting tomorrow, I will try to take lots of pictures...just waiting for the UPS & USPS people to bring me my DO system, Injectors, and Oil tee...
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Old 01-03-2008, 05:46 PM   #49
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one step colder for 1.8L miatas are 1.6L miata plugs.
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Old 01-03-2008, 06:04 PM   #50
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You will need to do some more reading and see what we are talking about for fueling etc. The newer miatas like you have take, abit more electronic handywork or money. The more you read on this forum and ask questions the less likely you will be to screw anything up. We are happy to help so long as we don't have to reexplain everything. A Kajillion times and even them we sometimes keep on throwing the right answers in your face until it sinks in. Any who happy posting.
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Old 01-03-2008, 06:15 PM   #51
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ngk 7s will work
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Old 01-03-2008, 06:20 PM   #52
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I was goign through all this stuff with my NB too. However, im on a JRSC at ~8psi. I have had the fuel controller (Voodoo box) become disconnected and the stock ECU WILL NOT FUEL ANY BOOST WHATSOEVER.

Difference for me getting a Voodoo box is that i picked it up barely used with a Innovative wideband O2 w/digital readout for $300.

After much frustration about how to control fuel with my planned T3/TO4E.... i just scrapped the whole idea , put everything i had collected and got a Hydra and 550's.
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Old 01-03-2008, 08:37 PM   #53
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Thanks for the advice guys, I really don't mind trying it like this. For sure if something goes wrong, or the car just doesn't feel right I will remove it ASAP "I got off of work for tomorrow and Monday, so my weekend is extended". I have read a couple of people running it like this and some swear it should be ok. I feel like trying it, and heck, even if the car runs like crap then we have some factual evidence vs all these people who are saying it definitely will work. Wish me luck...
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Old 01-05-2008, 08:23 PM   #54
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HI guys, I am almost done, I just need tap the pan, install feed line, and wire up the injectors. Can anyone help me with tapping the pan? I am have the tap, but I am unable to get my drill into that area, do I have to pull the pan? It looks to a PITA process. Please any help is welcome. I only have a little time before it gets dark & or starts to rain. Right now I am still searching...thanks
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Old 01-05-2008, 08:27 PM   #55
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https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...hlight=oil+pan

I found this, I think I need a 90 degree adapter.
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Old 01-08-2008, 01:11 AM   #56
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Got it all done, you guys were right I am in definite need of MS. I am running rough @ idle up to 2,500... but after that I am happy boosting... Is there anything I can do to modify my set up until I can purchase MS. Thanks.
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Old 01-08-2008, 03:10 AM   #57
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Install smaller injectors...
Buy an MS while you deal with running 6 psi.
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Old 01-08-2008, 12:52 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
Install smaller injectors...
Buy an MS while you deal with running 6 psi.
yah I am planning on installing my stock injectors again today and adding my DO WI...I think it will run better.
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Old 01-08-2008, 05:36 PM   #59
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Got the stock injectors back on today and it runs so much better @ idle, but has a bit of bogging "not pinging" around 4,000. I am installing the WI right now...here is a teaser pic.

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Old 01-10-2008, 02:41 AM   #60
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Hi guys, while I am saving up for the tuning, I have a quick question. If I am getting smoke from the turbine most likely its because I need a restrictor on my t25 Oil feed line right? But I am also getting oily residue and smoke out the tailpipe...does this mean that the seal broke? Thanks, and it also has a bad fluctuating idle after warming up.
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