18psi

iTrader: (76)

that poor little engine
it never did anything to deserve this kind of abuse

albumleaf

iTrader: (7)

you don't know that!

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Is that an open barb on the cold side piping?

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

"I couldn't afford engine management," then has to buy an engine.

Willful stupidity isn't the same as accidental damage.

Claybay09

No it's no open, that hose just wasn't on. It's an old picture. I was waiting for the Jb weld to cure. I know I need a ms. I'm not going to leave it like this! Engine has almost 300000 on it. Rebuild and proper engine management are in the near future!

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

If that is not a PVC valve from a boosted car, then you are likely pressurizing your crankcase.

It would make more sense to tee the vacuum from the stock FPR port.

Guys, is it normal to leave the stock FPR when adding a Rising Rate FPR?

These are not your problem, just some polish. Speaking of polish, the compartment could use some TLC.

Claybay09

Yes it it needs some love bad! Everything on this car does!
You think it could be the pcv?
I'll go and get one, 323 gtx pcv correct?

pdexta

iTrader: (17)

Sounds like you need either way less boost or way more fuel.

Do yourself a favor and disconnect the wastegate so it's open all the time until you get it sorted out. You should still make a couple psi that way and the car will be considerably quicker and more driveable, plus infinitely safer than it is now. You're seriously going to blow it up very soon how it is now.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

No. I stated it was not your fueling problem, just another problem. Some use that valve, others add a check valve in line with the stock PVC.

Sorry if I added confusion.

Ben is right, a gauge would tell you what is / is not happening. Pdexta also gives good advice to minimize boost until you find the root cause of lack of fuel.

Again, others have used band aids and know how to fix, I was just trying to proactively address the next set of issues.

Claybay09

Well I figured I might as well change the pcv and fuel filter. And the problem has seemed to go away for now. I'm hoping it was just the clogged fuel filter.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

A clogged fuel filter didn't make your car run rich at idle. You have a problem, and turning a blind eye to it will get you stranded somewhere.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Props to Ben for genuine concern.

OP, Ben used to run a RRAFR, according to a thread I ran across.

FMU_discussion

Claybay09

I was referring to it going lean at full boost. It still gets pretty lean high 15s low 16s. It's a lot better than the the three dots right? I know I'm on aids and that needs to and will change! But until I get a ms, would the rich idle be caused by the 1.8 injectors?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

You should be like less than 12 in boost. If not lower.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

The one time that I did install an RRFPR, thus is what I did. I prefer that line, or the brake booster hose, not just for FPR but also MAP, mostly because I know that they're wide open inside and give a clean reading. Sometimes (and I'm embarrassed to say that I've never looked into this on a Miata), one or more of the ports near the throttle body are engineered not to yield a signal at the extremes of throttle position.


Yes. Nearly all* RRFPRs are active only at manifold pressures greater than atmospheric, and simply pass through when in vacuum. If you installed one of those and removed or bypassed the stock FPR, then you would have no fuel pressure at all when not in boost.


* = A couple of companies, including Bell, make "multi role" regulators which function similarly to the stock regulator in a factory turbo car, operating in both boost and vacuum. The vast majority of RRFPRs used in aftermarket forced induction applications are not this type.




^ Also this.

Claybay09

God I need a ms! All my problems will be solved! Anyone have one they want to give me? Or for cheap?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Probably cheaper than a couple new engines