Main bearings?

Going to pull the motor or do everything lying on your back?

 

It is on a lift in the shop, the engine stays in.

They take it down till the oil pump gets here.

 

And the main bearings are OK?

Would not have thought of attempting it all that way; but I guess when you have a lift........

 

Yeah, you can only do the bottom main bearings that way, and you really can't just do the bottom mains and not the tops. So rods only, I guess. I would damn sure peek at one of the mains, though.

 

I don't understand doing rod bearings and not main bearings. Does not compute.

And what about the oil squirters? Is there junk in there?

What about the cam bearings and lifters?

Lots of places see pressurized oil and could have trash. Why did they only want to do rod bearings?

 

I don't even want to think about all of the other little places I might have little plastic bits stuck. So frustrating. But thankfully my bearings looked awesome, the Boundary pump is in, and I say eff it all because I'm going to run it! If it was metal I would be tearing it down for a rebuild.

 

I would expect the oil filter trapped most of your plastic bits. The concern is over the engine making metal post-filter.

 

The oil filters don't filter all of the oil that comes to them. The oil filter bypass valves on our cars open between 8-15 psi depending upon brand. Above that pressure some of the oil does not go through the filter media. Mind you, we aren't talking about 8-15 psi of system pressure but 8-15 psi of differential pressure between oil filter inlet and outlet.

 

I wouldn't expect the bypass to open until the media is REALLY dirty. Still think you were mostly protected (so long as you were changing at reasonable intervals) unless a lot of plastic was caught in the filter. Wishful thinking?

 

I read some horror stories about the relief valve, I read about installing an external oil pressure regulator...

What do you think ?

I just ordered a new oil pump
90 98 Mazda Ford Mercury 1 5L 1 6L 1 8L Engine Oil Pump | eBay



This is the external reg
Oil Pressure Regulator: Peterson Fluid Systems, External, Inline, Adj.



My car is a 97 @ 9psi boost up to 12psi (later)
stock engine.

This stuck relief valve is going to cost me allot, I just thought maybe I should install this external solution...

Thanks !

 

Three things-

If Japanese oil pump gears fail on our cars, I wouldn't trust Chinese.

If debris can hang up in an internal relief valve, it can hang up in an external one.

How do you intend to insert an external oil pressure relief valve that is designed for a dry sump external oil pump into the factory oil circuit? If you plumb it at the oil filter adapter some of the stock relief's functionality is compromised. The stock relief relieves backpressure at the pump outlet, thereby taking additional stress off of the gears during high pressure situations. With it relocated, it is possible to still have that high degree of stress within the pump as it tries to get oil through its outlet, into the oil galley, and to the filter adapter. It isn't ideal to relocate it.

 

For plumbing in external you just remove the factory one entirely and feed the entire relief into this valve.

It works very very well.

Dann

 

Or unless the oil was rather cold and thick, and the oil pressure was rather high, which is what typically happens every morning when you start the engine and drive away.


On the one hand, I'm hesitant to automatically criticize any part sourced from eBay, and I acknowledge that the now-common Chinese H-beam connecting rods that we were all so paranoid about a couple of years ago seem to be working out.

On the other hand, when I see something like an oil pump selling for half as much (literally, half) from an eBay vendor as from Rock Auto or Parts Dinosaur (traditionally the go-to suppliers for inexpensive parts), it makes me wonder...




The internal pressure control valve works just fine so long as it's not fouled with debris. I'd be leery or introducing additional complexity into the system.

 

Another firmly-held Polyanna belief utterly shattered. Thanks a lot!

 

I have a thread about this same exact problem. The plunger on your oil pump is stuck open, that was my problem.

 

I continue to believe (albeit through anecdote) that vehicles owned by persons who allow them to warm for 3 to 5 minutes before driving them have longer lasting engines due to numerous factors including debris bypass. This may be a causal fallacy due to the fact that the individuals who would take care too allow their vehicles to warm would also better care for their vehicles generally.

 

I don't care. I have never had an engine fail from normal DD duties. Around here, if you get 150k before the rest of the vehicle is a rusted hulk, you're doing well. By the time I hit that, the car is 10-12 years old, rusty and beginning to have so many various other problems that it's time for a new one. So, I beat on them and not worry about it.

Track cars or one you plan on keeping (summer only car) is a different story.

 

For a DD, I have heard that letting it sit and warm up is worse for the engine, since it takes the oil longer to come up to temp.

You know, as long as you aren't beating the **** out of it for those first 3-5 minutes.

 

I beat the **** out of it right out the driveway. Heats the pistons faster to get them into tolerances

 

My last Toyota truck V6 engine was clean as a whistle inside and has lasted 400k+ without needing a rebuild yet.