Eric Risinger

Tomorrow the engine should be ready to go back in the car. Unfortunately, there is a problem I'd like your opinions on. The heater core return line is pointing directly at my downpipe. There is no way I'm going to be able to get a hose on there.
Do I take heat to it and bend it? What did you guys do?
Thanks

curly

iTrader: (25)

Put a socket of the appropriate size over it, an extension in the socket, blast a torch in it till it’s red hot, and slowly bend it till it fits. You could forgo the heat, but there’s a better chance of it kinking.

Icedawg

I just faced the identical problem two days ago, with an FM manifold and GT2560 turbo.

I gently banged away on the end of the tube with a large rubber mallet for a while.
You do have to be a bit careful not to direct it too far back, or it might have clearance issues with the firewall.
I think it will still need some heat shielding tubing over top of it.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Take off the manifold and turbo. Put a nut on the stud that the hard heater line's bracket goes to. Then put on the bracket and another nut over it to keep it in place. Then beat on the end of the hardline until you have clearance. I usually leave the rubber hose on to help not bang up the hardline as much.

miatawelder

tossed the rubber connector hoses and made my own out of brazed (not soldered) copper tube, which then attach with short straight silicone connectors

MetalMuffins

iTrader: (1)

Nice work, I'm genuinely curious how they hold up long term. Seems like a better option for heat from the downpipe but I'd be concerned about vibrations causing potential failures...

aju41046

Do all FM manifold/Garret combos have this problem of clearance?

Eric Risinger

I assume so. They also have problems where the turbo->intercooler piping hits the lower rad hose and the oil drain is there in the way too. I'm very disappointed for having spend $3500

aju41046

FM Instructions: "Before removing the exhaust manifold, bend the water bypass tube (located beneath the manifold, running to the outboard heater hose) back toward the firewall as far as possible (as shown). Use a large prybar, prying against the manifold."

Guess it's just a quirk of the FM setup

Jesse99James

I installed fire sleeve on every hose when I replaced coolant hoses. My hard line must have been bent when the Garrett upgrade kit was installed by the original owner on my MSM. After I got it home I had to remove the heat shield because the old style wastegate bracket had cracked into two pieces. After replacing that bracket, I had trouble fitting the heat shield so I bent the hard line a little more. I didn't have clearance issues with the downpipe but the heat shield was pressing hard against the hose clamp. I also bent the back, inside corner of the heat shield towards the turbo 3/8" - 1/2" using my vice and a large crescent wrench.

curly

iTrader: (25)

just did this again today, thought I’d document it. Before, after, and tools used. I offset the jaws so it’s supported behind the bracket.

curly

iTrader: (25)

My picture uploading skills suck. That’s actually after, tools used, and before.