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Old 08-29-2006, 10:13 PM   #1
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Default Turbo maifold bolts keep coming loose!

How do I stop this? Any special tricks? I tried locktight, but even that only lasted a couple weeks. Its the bolts between the turbo and the manifold to be exact
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Old 08-29-2006, 10:44 PM   #2
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try these
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Old 08-29-2006, 11:04 PM   #3
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You could also try re-torquing once they have heated up
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Old 08-29-2006, 11:09 PM   #4
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wouldnt that risk just stretching the studs or potentially breaking them?
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Old 08-29-2006, 11:14 PM   #5
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Possibly, But maybe they aren't being torqued high enough in the first place?

Sometimes, when I have seen exhaust manifolds loosen bolts, they easy fix is to warm them up and 'snug' them up. (usually its only 1/8 of a turn or so)

I don't usually break stuff, well there was this one time....(6mm thread and 1/2" double impact)
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Old 08-30-2006, 02:47 AM   #6
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everything I read and been told you are to re-torque exhaust bolt after they warm up before the cool down. On the Talon after swapping the turbo, I had to left the turbo warm up and then re-torque the turbo bolts and one had room to go.
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Old 08-30-2006, 08:10 AM   #7
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good tip!
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Old 08-30-2006, 09:40 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
try these

These things are great....They held my rear tire in place on my fixed gear bike, nothing else would work.
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Old 08-30-2006, 11:48 AM   #9
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Can you get them anywhere else besides FM and in different sizes? I need 3/8"
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Old 08-30-2006, 12:25 PM   #10
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just search for Serrated Flange Nuts or Serrated Washers
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Old 08-30-2006, 01:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildfire0310 View Post
everything I read and been told you are to re-torque exhaust bolt after they warm up before the cool down. On the Talon after swapping the turbo, I had to left the turbo warm up and then re-torque the turbo bolts and one had room to go.

Yeah, this am while I was sobbering up.. I remembered the days before torque-to-yield bolts and everything including headgaskets need to be re-torqued after 500 miles. Almost every cast iron manifold need to be re-torqued when warmed up as well.
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Old 08-30-2006, 01:45 PM   #12
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Can you get them anywhere else besides FM and in different sizes? I need 3/8"
You can get them directly from NORD-LOCK.Just google it.
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Old 08-31-2006, 01:50 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by jayc72 View Post
Can you get them anywhere else besides FM and in different sizes? I need 3/8"
Home depot?
Fastenal?

Or we can always special order them,
Stephanie
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Old 07-10-2011, 10:01 PM   #14
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About to buy hardware for my build and remebered there are issues with this.

Anyway, these puppies are also available from mcmaster-carr, 10 bucks for a pack of 5 pairs in 5/16.


Real reason I'm bumping this thread, I hear that its good to use stainless hardware. As an engineer/scientific type I started checking material properties and it look like steel is stronger AND has a lower CTE, but I know the nickel content in stainless will help it retain strength in high heat.

So, what has been the empirical data from you guys on this? Plain steel re-torqued when heated or stainless re-torqued when heated? I know all you super serious guys go for v-band setups and inconel housing bolts, its too expensive for my wallet and unnecessary for my skill level at the moment.
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Old 07-10-2011, 10:20 PM   #15
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You buy the TSE Inco bolt kit. Yes, it's a lot of money; no, you never have to touch them again.
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Old 07-10-2011, 10:41 PM   #16
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You buy the TSE Inco bolt kit. Yes, it's a lot of money; no, you never have to touch them again.
You and others on the board have done GREAT work on this issue, I'm not trying to dog that. The thread on your CHRA bolts (https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/chra-turbine-bolts-relaxing-55717/) is fantastic.

Inconel just isnt in the budget right now, and I dont really track this car, just autox and mountain carving once a year. I dont think I'm serious enough for inco yet.
-Brad
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Old 07-10-2011, 11:26 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayc72 View Post
Can you get them anywhere else besides FM and in different sizes? I need 3/8"
I got a bag of 12pr on ebay for $6 shipped. I tried everywhere locally, both national and independent retailers, and could not come up with any without spending >$1 per pair which I thought was a joke. And nobody had them in stock...all special order.
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Old 07-10-2011, 11:59 PM   #18
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For anyone in the San Diego area, you can grab the nordlocks at Marshall's Hardware on Miramar Rd.
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:52 AM   #19
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All I can say is that I have FMs newer manifold (the older design allows the studs come intodirect contact with exhaust gasses...new one does not) and had them tap it out and install 10mm studs. With several track days and about 2 seasons of autoX on them, they have never flinched. With the older stuff on 8mm studs even street driving caused stub problems. Come to think of it, I should ask FM what studs they installed i nthe manifold.
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Old 07-11-2011, 01:38 AM   #20
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I think the Stainless Steel 308(??) type studs are a sol'n that's halfway effective between ordinary studs and the $$ Inconel studs.
They're the same material used on boilers - there's an ASME standard alloy for them, and yes they have better high temp creep and CTE characteristics than the ordinary studs.
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