wanna see why timing is important?
05-14-2007, 02:21 PM
#22
Boost Czar
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There's gotta be something aside from the conservative timing though, for some reason it's running really rich on yours, the MS fuel constants should have adjusted for it perfectly, and I'll go check my timing again to make sure mine is correct.
But you see what I'm saying, there's no way my car is making even close to 170whp, given the 1/8th mile trap speed. Either something isn't translating correctly in the msq or you just REALLy need a bigger exhaust.
But you see what I'm saying, there's no way my car is making even close to 170whp, given the 1/8th mile trap speed. Either something isn't translating correctly in the msq or you just REALLy need a bigger exhaust.
Al...I went back out today and checked the timing...I had my light set to 4-cycle as opposed to 2-cycle last time I set it...but that only made it an extra 2° more retarded at idle. So i fxed that...tried a few different settings and configurations on MS to confirm the timing was accurate...it is, I'm not questioning it anymore.
So I loaded my timing map I made this morning...pulls like a bat of out hell and no indications of knock.
look at the spark angle...21.7° at 12psi...at lot more than the FM map. This is close to what I was running with Bipes at the same psi level. If you think that the stock ecu is at 25° at WOT, I was retarding 8° and advanced 6°, so hitting 22° in boost.
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05-14-2007, 02:51 PM
#23
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for a reference point.... here's the FM 2001 hydra on-boost defaults at least above 3500rpm.
Looks like you're running a few degrees more than me across the board--which is OK considering the lower compression.
Looks like you're running a few degrees more than me across the board--which is OK considering the lower compression.
Last edited by y8s; 01-12-2009 at 12:34 PM.
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05-14-2007, 02:57 PM
#24
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yeah that table looks a lot closer to what I'm running now. I'm really just retarding 1° per every 3psi (was 1° per psi). When I fix my LC-1, i might have to take it back as I lean out the fuel.
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05-14-2007, 04:26 PM
#31
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the hydra does follow the 4k dip. But up top the dip is shallow to the point of vanishing.
oh and those are Jeremy's defaults for my setup. probably same for all M2 cars with a hydra.
oh and those are Jeremy's defaults for my setup. probably same for all M2 cars with a hydra.
Last edited by y8s; 01-12-2009 at 12:34 PM.
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05-14-2007, 04:34 PM
#32
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Then make sure you never idle below 20kpa or set the last row before the 10 row to about 2kpa below your minimum idle kpa.also, your 20 and 30 kpa rows for 0-1500 rpm should be 10 10 10 10 10 for idle. maybe 12-14 in the 30 row to help with the A/C or high electrical loads.
but that's for drivability. not power. power shmower.
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