'99 longblock, GT2554R, MSPNP: 217whp/192wtq@13psi (Mustang Dyno) - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 03-13-2009, 02:56 AM   #1
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Default '99 longblock, GT2554R, MSPNP: 217whp/[email protected] (Mustang Dyno)

I'm very pleased with these numbers. The 99 longblock gobbled up another 3-4 degrees on top of what my 94 motor was doing and it translated to some serious numbers. I actually hit MBT on 91 octane above 6300rpm. I need to work on the boost curve a bit but other than that I'm quite pleased. It comes on nice and smooth around 3500rpm and then pulls like a freight train, harder and harder until the rev limiter steps in.

I did a pull with the VICS closed and one pull with it open; the closed pull made 10-12tq more below 5000rpm and showed nearly no losses above that. I set the switch point at 5200rpm. From what I can tell, the solenoid is powered all the time to keep them closed, and then it becomes unpowered at the switchpoint which opens them up. Or maybe I have it wired backwards.

The baseline number is my old spark map with 3 degrees removed, and my old fuel map with 10% added. I ended up pulling a bunch of fuel out and added timing like a madman.

Chart:
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Datalog (boost curve spikes at 15.8 and ends at 11psi, needs some work for sure. 217whp at 11psi at redline isn't too shabby.)

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Spark:

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Old 03-13-2009, 06:19 AM   #2
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Damn man, nice numbers.

You sure dont waste any time do you? Haha
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Old 03-13-2009, 08:28 AM   #3
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Hella nice turnaround time Sav!
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Old 03-13-2009, 01:14 PM   #4
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My dirty-*** hooptie getting strapped down:

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TheSnowboarder's car

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Me looking like I know what I'm doing

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Old 03-13-2009, 01:28 PM   #5
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Nice! Looks like you have the same actuator problem I have.
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Old 03-14-2009, 01:28 AM   #6
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What's the conversion factor from Mustang to Dynojet?
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Old 03-14-2009, 01:37 AM   #7
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Looks good Sav. You going to get back up to 14 psi or leave it where it is?
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Old 03-14-2009, 04:41 AM   #8
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Can't decide. It feels about the same as before, but another 10-15whp on the top. I need it to be stone reliable. I'll probably stabilize the boost curve and then turn it back down to 13. I'd like to see 225 on that dyno.

Jason, not sure what the correction factor for their numbers are. Those are corrected numbers but the uncorrected numbers are 15whp higher. The comparo I have right now is Nick's car, which did 230whp at 14psi and then did 218 at 17.5 on this dyno before we started tuning. He walked away with the same power at 14psi as he came in at 17.5psi with.
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Old 03-14-2009, 04:51 AM   #9
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What kind of seats are those? They look really sick.
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Old 03-14-2009, 04:59 AM   #10
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You aren't f*cking around. I like that.

About thesnowboarder starting the day off at 17.5 psi and puting down 218 rwhp and by the end doing 230 whp @ 14psi, what was changed so much to make such a difference? Are we just talking spark tuning? That's a bangin' improvement.

P.S. How affordable and where is this dyno because I need to do about an hour of tuning but have no hook ups in that area...

-Ryan

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Old 03-14-2009, 05:02 AM   #11
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Quote:
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What kind of seats are those? They look really sick.
Momo Start or Sparco Sprint 5, depending on which car you are talking about.
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Old 03-14-2009, 05:18 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePass View Post
You aren't f*cking around. I like that.

About thesnowboarder starting the day off at 17.5 psi and puting down 218 rwhp and by the end doing 230 whp @ 14psi, what was changed so much to make such a difference? Are we just talking spark tuning? That's a bangin' improvement.

P.S. How affordable and where is this dyno because I need to do about an hour of tuning but have no hook ups in that area...
-Ryan
Just checked my logs to confirm everything. Nick did 230/235 at 14psi on a different dyno. Came on this dyno and did 218 at 16.5psi, and left at 218 at 15.0psi. Something is up with his head or compression because his motor HATES timing.

As far as what a good spark map is worth:

175whp/165wtq, 15.5psi to 12.5psi at redline:
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217whp/192wtq, 15.8psi to 11.3psi at redline:
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Old 03-14-2009, 05:29 AM   #13
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P.P.S. Sav is your wastegate signal still coming off the compressor? Or are you using EBC to intentionally spike to 15 and then mellow out later? I switched my wastegate vac source to post-IC/pre-TB and now have very little boost drop off - you could probably spike to only 14 and then settle to 13 or 12.5...
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Old 03-14-2009, 05:34 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePass View Post
P.P.S. Sav is your wastegate signal still coming off the compressor? Or are you using EBC to intentionally spike to 15 and then mellow out later? I switched my wastegate vac source to post-IC/pre-TB and now have very little boost drop off - you could probably spike to only 14 and then settle to 13 or 12.5...
That's the goal. Your thread and Joe's response inspired me to do that. Just need to tap the IC pipe for a bung, bust out the det cans and make a few pulls.
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Old 03-14-2009, 05:39 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePass View Post
P.P.S. Sav is your wastegate signal still coming off the compressor? Or are you using EBC to intentionally spike to 15 and then mellow out later? I switched my wastegate vac source to post-IC/pre-TB and now have very little boost drop off - you could probably spike to only 14 and then settle to 13 or 12.5...

its still off the compressor, he just needs to move it. He would like to hold the boost all the way to redline.

As for my seats, sprint 5, 2007 versions. Thanks for the cudos!

We dynoed at Full Function Motorsports in Union City. Ryan, check NCR for a bunch of local dynos. I created a thread to organize the cheapest load holding dynos a few weeks back. I think this particular dyno was 110 an hr.
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Old 03-14-2009, 06:34 AM   #16
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Based on the NCR dyno thread, I assume you went to Full Function Technology ($110 for 1 hour rental)... so you did the "rent the dyno if you know what you're doing with tuning" deal? We need a thread on what to focus on/what steps to take if you go to a dyno and tune yourself because I have no idea how to tune at a dyno... just fiddle with the timing until you find a max power? I know so little...

-Ryan
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Old 03-14-2009, 12:58 PM   #17
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what's that clear tube?


nice torque curve, I'm sure if you could keep the boost from dropping you'd hit your goal.
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Old 03-14-2009, 03:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
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what's that clear tube?


nice torque curve, I'm sure if you could keep the boost from dropping you'd hit your goal.
Clear tube is the detonation cans. It's 5/8" nylon tube plugged into a set of construction earmuffs, and then the other end is plugged into a piece of copper pipe which is crushed and bolted to the motor mount. It makes listening to detonation idiotproof.

If I can hold boost I think I might be able to keep the torque curve up. As it sits right now, I actually had 1 more degree of timing in the 6300/7000 cells at 183/212kpa, and I lost no power by removing it. No more power available there. :(
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Old 03-16-2009, 10:47 AM   #19
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its nice to see someone else jocking the det-cans. I'm the motherfucking man, don't ever forget it.

If the snowboarder's motor is at 9.5:1 static comp, then I think his #'s are reasonable. If its low comp like mine, then its a sad existence. Could his mechanical timing be off a tooth at the crank? Could it not be timed properly with the timing light? Could the CAS move?
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Old 03-16-2009, 11:29 AM   #20
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I thought it might be, i got confused when i saw what it looked to be joining at the laptop... :P
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