Artech 1.6 at 10 psi
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
I suspect the exhaust is your bottle-neck.
I cant read and so i missed the crushed exhaus and resonator
Id say that could accout for 20-30hp. Rest could be timingz.
Btw i wouldnt jack timing without a way to check for knock. This is not the stone age.
Id say that could accout for 20-30hp. Rest could be timingz.
Btw i wouldnt jack timing without a way to check for knock. This is not the stone age.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,192
Total Cats: 1,398
From: Oregon City, OR
Yeah 20-30hp would be 175-185, I would NOT be disappointed with that, and could probably find the other 10-20hp to make me really happy with a little fiddling with the MBC and timing.
Threads like these make me afraid to get on a dyno, but also more determined to find out what I'm making. What do you guys think about using the dyno software that reads a log to generate a dyno chart? Anyone compare one of those outputs to a real dyno?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,192
Total Cats: 1,398
From: Oregon City, OR
Cat looks ok:

Dunno if you can tell, but there's no melted sections and I can see through it easily. Damn inner diameter is only 2.3". I don't care if the O.D. is 2.5", that's a ------- 2.25" cat if you ask me.
Gotta fix this damn thingy too. Those two center bolts on the timing plate broke off a while ago, it's never scraped until I started it up. Should be an easy fix. Might gut the plate to the bare timing marks. Or just bash it back with a hammer.

Dunno if you can tell, but there's no melted sections and I can see through it easily. Damn inner diameter is only 2.3". I don't care if the O.D. is 2.5", that's a ------- 2.25" cat if you ask me.
Gotta fix this damn thingy too. Those two center bolts on the timing plate broke off a while ago, it's never scraped until I started it up. Should be an easy fix. Might gut the plate to the bare timing marks. Or just bash it back with a hammer.
Curly, I have a brand new 3" metal core stainless cat with a little straight pipe on it sitting in my garage. Yours for $120 shipped.
The largest and shortest pipe is always best. It will always make a big differene in both spool and overall power.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,192
Total Cats: 1,398
From: Oregon City, OR
However, since I drive this on the street, I should think of it more like a straight piece of $20 pipe with v-bands that I only use for track days, as the cat would help muffle things.
Actually, ignore the v-bands, cause I'd have to send my dp back to him for modification, and I'm not doing that.
I pm'd artech. I'm pretty sure he hates me.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,192
Total Cats: 1,398
From: Oregon City, OR
I like this idea. Where is it located, and who would I contact about it? If it's reasonably priced I may do exactly that. We just put a gt2560 on my brothers s14 and he wants to dyno it as well.
NA, miata, mx5, racing, cat pipe, off road, stainless steel
Probably costs you around 10 HP at 200hp level.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
Cat converters are for homosexuals and women. I didn't compare to a dyno, but I went from 11.5-11.8AFR on ramp runs when I removed the cat converter from my car. That's more air, son.
There's a good chance that the muffler shop who made the crush bent exhaust also used a chambered, not straight through, muffler. Add that to the list of bottlenecks.
You have pm.
You have pm.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,192
Total Cats: 1,398
From: Oregon City, OR
Looks exactly like this, but without the flanges.
NA, miata, mx5, racing, cat pipe, off road, stainless steel
Probably costs you around 10 HP at 200hp level.
NA, miata, mx5, racing, cat pipe, off road, stainless steel
Probably costs you around 10 HP at 200hp level.
I bought the muffler myself, it's a magnaflow straight through design, specifically for turbo cars.










