I hit MBT in every cell from 101-210kpa though. Adding spark did nothing, so I went to the spark # that hit the delta, and split the difference...hopefully dropping egt a bit. I may try leaning out the spool cells on the next dyno trip.

 

I think u did a hella good job man im glad to see the 100's of threads u trolled us throught paid off. The numbers are very nice and the timming looks pretty damn agressive for a FMIC job the fueling is int he right range and you should be fairly safe running that setup for a good while. Now lets see some more boost

 

Dude, what's happening? I'm boosted too!

 

Everything you have done looks good to me. Don't get stuck on a number that a dyno gives you. The dyno is just a tool for tuning, nothing more. When you are out at the track that will be the true test for your car. If it's tuned for how you are going to use it and survive, then it's a success. You built this car to destroy all the big money cars you encounter on the track. If you are able to do that then you have succeeded. Congratulations for meeting your initial goal, that's something that most of us will never be able to do.

 

damn pat im glad u gave on un that clusterfuck of 2 twinscrews omg that was a crazzy thing. I posted a status thread in the BS section so we dont derail hustlers progress :P

 

Hustler, have Jason make you a test pipe. You're gonna want to just street-tune the fuel maps again but you will pick up some power. (and you won't **** your cat on track. mine didn't last a year.)

 

did it get louder? I don't know that I can handle much more loudness.

 

then get earplugs

 

good grief, would you like me to send you my power steering pump when I depower my rack?

DBAP - don't be a *****

EDIT: Btw, nice friggin' numbers as far as I'm concerned. I always thought the better part of dyno tuning was the driveability portion of getting the most out of your car, and less the final number. Even if the (max)number isn't what you wanted, all the numbers on the way there are that much better now too.

 

not so much as louder as it will get deeper. and be different i bet u couldnt tell a 3db diff.

 

A little.

Cat:



No cat:

 

You can get 100% driveability in about 2 hours with open roads and someone who knows the software running the laptop. The benefit of the dyno is getting the fuel map from 98% perfect to 100% perfect, and the spark map from 90% to 100%. The last 10-15whp are hard to feel on the road.

 

lowered static compression sucks at 12psi:

but at 15 (actually 13 and up) the glory of MBT of timing comes through from 4000-redline, and the #'s jump dramatically:

AFR:

advancing timing at 15psi did no good, lol.

my uneducated, misinformed theory:
The gt2860rs "works" and stops overboosting after 13psi.
Lowered static compression "is beneficial" after 13psi or about 220whp (dynodynamics, higher on a dynojet).

 

#'s aside...it looks like torque dives south on the dyno...but it sure as hell doesn't feel like it in the car. It PULLS!!!

 

what's the map reading at redline? could be why you see the loss of torque. But I think you need more IM.

 

fix your spool. FIX IT. on a 1.9L motor with a 99 head and a 2860, you should see a whole lot more low end.

are you sure you aren't running the .86 A/R turbine or something dumb?

 

he is running the .86.

 

brain is right. I need to confirm that the wastegate actuator is all the way "in." That would be a "stupid mistake" that I would have made and I've never 2x checked it.

That would change things significantly.

 

I'm not sure, but I'll check tonight. Savington and I discussed tthe possibility of intake manifold bottlenecking.

I plan on putting the car at 250whp or less so its drivable on the track...I'll probably leave it at 261whp on the street, lol. Right now its beating the **** out of street tires with ease in 3rd gear.

Paging Stephanie...go ahead and email a quote to me for a sheet-metal intake, lol. That way I'll make more power and not have to cut my FM hood.

 

With the IM I'd expect your torque to stay near flat to redline.