airbrush1

ok, I'm an idiot, don't know how I managed that one!

PS, yeah, view new posts is the best button evar!

Mymiataflys

numbers like that make me wish I had two turbo miatas, one with a full exhaust/cat, quieter intake, and say a t25. Then one with a super 60, external wastegate dumping to atmoshere, full 3 inch exhaust, no cat etc.
nice numbers, enjoy

y8s

iTrader: (8)

dont feel bad. every time I want to post a new thread it takes me five minutes to realize I can't do it from "new posts".

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

oooo ... cheap i like :gay:

nice numbers too by the way

beerslurpy

I'm curious how you got the torque to hold flat till redline at a constant manifold pressure. Usually it dips off a lot, especially the T04Bs that have very narrow efficient ranges with sharp dropoffs. Those are really high numbers for 13 psi on a crappy turbo like that, even with a good ECU like a TEC.

Your first dyno looks a lot more representative of a normal miata dyno chart with the puke and die around 5500. I am curious what mods you did between the 260 and 290hp runs.

Also, are those corrected figures?

I had a T04B-S3 not a V trim. The V trim is a slightly higher flowing turbo if I remember correctly.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

the stage II turbine will flow better, and that compressor wheel is good for 53 lb/min or 473BHP.

there's the clear benefits of a large turbo in it's glory.

airbrush1

Mods between..... De-catted the car, changed the drivers side UICP to 2.25"
and a new downpipe.

If you look at the numbers in the first dyno sheet, you'll see that the blue line on the left side actually holds till redline.

The numbers are uncorrected to the best of my knowledge. We are at sea level, so I don't see the need for much of a correction factor.

miatex

Airbrush, is your car a 1.6?

miatex

airbrush1

No the car is a 2000 NB 1.8L