Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

I think its exhaust restriction personally

That being said, double check that the mechanical cam timing is correct (set the engine at TDC and make sure the cam gear marks line up)

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

I agree, some of it will most likely be the exhaust restriction. I picked up a ton of torque and spool when I went to a 3" exhaust from a 2.25" racing beat on my 2560. I imagine you have a similar restriction as at the same boost I was making 260ish hp if I remember right (with an NB head, mind). This was with the FM elbow coming off the turbo to their 4-bolt flange (that I hate) to 3" running the full length back. When I inquired with FM about the tube, I believe I was told it was 2.5".

codrus

If your exhaust is as-described (expanding from turbo outlet diameter to 2.5" in the downpipe casting and then at least 2.5" from there back with no cat or muffler), then it's not the exhaust. A 3" is definitely better, but a proper 2.5" can do 250 whp easy.

If there's a huge dent where you hit a rock, then that's another story.

Random thought: have you checked your spark hardware latency? Set spark to a fixed 10 degrees, use timing light to check at idle, now use it to check while holding at 6000 RPM and make sure it's still 10 degrees at higher RPMs.

--Ian

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

^I think he said it was 2" at some point. Im guessing a stock mid pipe?

codrus

The only 2" reference seems to be to the inlet to the FM downpipe casting.

--Ian

fpscolin

I'll try disconnecting the exhaust system and butt-dynoing it, as well as the cam timing. Thanks

fpscolin

​​​​​​​It could use a rebuild, no shaft play from side to side but a bit in/out. That's pretty far down on the list of 'todos when my student budget allows it" though, until it starts smoking or sounding like a supercharger lol

pdexta

iTrader: (17)

The dyno graph looks like it's choking up top, which would tend to support the exhaust restriction theories. You said it runs pretty even with your friend's F20 miata, but those typically dyno like 180-190hp and 5tq right?

codrus

2560s are a ball-bearing center, which is not a DIY rebuild. "Rebuilding" one consists of sending the CHRA to a garrett authorized shop and they'll sell you a new one at a discounted price of $450 or so.

Radial play would be bad, a small amount of axial play is normal. Sounds like yours is good.

--Ian
​​​​​​​

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

We all missed it.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

no. its super low even for 1.6

fpscolin

Nah the Nissan one is definitely a journal bearing, it doesn't spin freely when spun by hand - I think the red top SR20s got the ball bearings and others got journal? Idk, too many chassis codes to make sense of those cars

fpscolin

Small update for everyone - warm compression tested the car, the mystery continues...
Cyl 1:
Inital: 90
Final: 190

Cyl 2:
Inital: 90
Final: 165
Wet: 180

Cyl 3:
Inital: 90
Final: 165
Wet: 190

Cyl 4:
Inital: 100
Final: 190

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

need leakdown numbers

soot

Well, you have worn rings but I don't think you should be that down on power...

I see that you've checked base timing, but it's possible that your pulley has slipped. You could be running way less advance than you think you are. My pulley had slipped over 15° from stock. Drop a socket extension down #1 and check it against your TDC mark.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

with a 2560, and 16° timing, and 16psi, and a 3" exhaust -- it should be closer to something like ~250-260rwhp on a dynojet.


having only 13° spark and a 2.5" exhaust is NOT helping.

HeavyD

How about a picture of the data tag on the CHRA? Positive it's a GT2560r?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Either the motor is one foot in the grave or the dyno reads really low.

fpscolin

Here ya go

nitrodann

When you look at the dyno you can see the torque falls off really hard at the top.

Its either a restricted intake or exhaust, or something else isnt ok.

Dann