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Old 03-25-2015, 12:42 PM   #41
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love my aem because it doesn't take 5 billion years to "warm up" like a retarded piece of crap

lol
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Old 03-25-2015, 12:44 PM   #42
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it's like 20 seconds at most. I think the Lc2 and MTxL is better in that regard.
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Old 03-25-2015, 12:47 PM   #43
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It's like... 7 seconds for my LC-1. I've seriously never understood that bitching.

The reality is that i've used many different widebands and they all did the job i asked of them.

My biggest complaint about the Innovates is that they're horrendously ugly.
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Old 03-25-2015, 12:47 PM   #44
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I guess I fell out of love with mine when it worked perfectly for 2 years and 30,000 miles and then **** the bed when I replaced the sensor after those 2 years. Proper grounds, proper +12v, and it still wouldn't work. I think I threw two or three $65 sensors at it before I gave up and threw it away. The AEM doesn't need free-air calbration every 17 seconds and it doesn't need to be grounded through the split hairs of a grass-fed organic unicorn in order to provide a reliable, accurate AFR figure.

I guess I prefer the functional wideband to the finnicky, unreliable one, but to each his own.
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Old 03-25-2015, 12:48 PM   #45
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Haven't calibrated the sensor in my LC-1 in 5 years. And proud!

Calibration is a privilege, not a punishment.
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Old 03-25-2015, 12:59 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
I guess I fell out of love with mine when it worked perfectly for 2 years and 30,000 miles and then **** the bed when I replaced the sensor after those 2 years. Proper grounds, proper +12v, and it still wouldn't work. I think I threw two or three $65 sensors at it before I gave up and threw it away. The AEM doesn't need free-air calbration every 17 seconds and it doesn't need to be grounded through the split hairs of a grass-fed organic unicorn in order to provide a reliable, accurate AFR figure.

I guess I prefer the functional wideband to the finnicky, unreliable one, but to each his own.
agreed. on all counts.
my only exp is with the MTX-L though. it seemed to be fine aside from the infuriating "warm up"
That was exclusively the reason I went back to aem
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Haven't calibrated the sensor in my LC-1 in 5 years. And proud!

Calibration is a privilege, not a punishment.
crossing your fingers and hoping your car isn't running rich/lean for 5 years is a priviledge?
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Old 03-25-2015, 02:25 PM   #47
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sensors wear over time and IIRC innovate is the ONLY wbo2 on the market that actually cares enough to address the degradation.

having no sensor calibration is not a benefit.

it's a way for companies to say: we don't actually care about the accuracy of our devices over time.




Ive read things about the AEM that says each has it's own tuned bias resistor to make sure that the sensor its paired with actually reads accurately. This suggests that the calibration will change when the sensor degrades/gets sooted/or is replaced.

I've never had more trouble trying to get TS to match a gauge value than with the AEM Uego. The calibration is never close to the published values in the manual. I've seen some with almost a 2AFR difference between the gauge and TS--towards the too lean side (where MS think it's actually rich enough but the gauge shows lean).

you should only have to free-air calibrate a innovate once in a blue-moon to make sure that you're still in check. the heater warmup makes sure the sensor is still functioning within spec and will toss errors if not.

Last edited by Braineack; 03-25-2015 at 02:35 PM.
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Old 03-25-2015, 02:30 PM   #48
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^^^this. Its like iPhone and android. Apple sacraficies the ability to have complete control over a device in the name of ease of use.
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Old 03-25-2015, 02:37 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
having no sensor calibration is not a benefit.

it's a way for companies to say: we don't actually care about the accuracy of our devices over time.
^This. One lets you compensate for errors to gain an accurate measurement and the other says, "Meh, it's not our engine." It's similar to flying a light plane when you set the altimeter to field elevation prior to taking flight. It's better than saying, "the ground is around here plus or minus a hundred feet," and just being ok with that.
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Old 03-25-2015, 02:41 PM   #50
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it's not like either is hard to install.

Both the Lc2/MTX-l and AEM require three wires to install and all should be wired exactly the same.
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Old 03-25-2015, 03:12 PM   #51
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Okay so heres a exerpt from MSPNPPro install manual.

The MS3-Pro can also work with most aftermarket wideband oxygen sensor controllers. You will need to install the controller according to the directions that came with it, and connect the controller’s analog output wire to the MS3-Pro’s O2 input wire. If the wideband controller has a ground specifically
DIYAutoTune.com MS3-Pro manual version 1.030, firmware 1.3.4, 2/27/2015 Page 39
4.4 Other sensors 4 WIRING
for its analog output, it connects to the MS3-Pro sensor ground wire. Do not connect any wires labeled “serial output”, “digital output” or similar to the MS3-Pro, or connect any other sort of wideband ground to the MS3-Pro.

*Innovate systems have multiple analog outputs; this is the recommended default.
The above list is not intended to be a complete list of what wideband controllers will work with the MS3-Pro; it will work with many other ones not listed. As long as the wideband has a 0-5 volt analog output, and you can obtain the specifications for its output, you can make it work with the MS3-Pro.
Additional narrow band O2 sensors or wideband controllers may be wired to the spare analog input wires.
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Old 03-25-2015, 03:13 PM   #52
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Literally has nothing to do with what we are talking about.
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Old 03-25-2015, 03:35 PM   #53
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Old 03-25-2015, 03:35 PM   #54
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I too wired my MTX-L off the DIYPNP hot thru crank signal, but then I followed the directions like Aidan and had much better results, lot smaller offset. I eventually went digital, and that works like a boss.

For some reason my MTX-L will stay up through cranking assuming I wait 15 seconds for it to warm up before trying, I had no idea this was so special. I don't really care now, I'm pretty happy with my startup and ASE, most days...
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Old 03-25-2015, 03:37 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
agreed. on all counts.
my only exp is with the MTX-L though. it seemed to be fine aside from the infuriating "warm up"
That was exclusively the reason I went back to aem


crossing your fingers and hoping your car isn't running rich/lean for 5 years is a priviledge?

That's different from the UEGO how, exactly?

I HAVE the option to calibrate my ****. I'm just lazy.
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Old 03-25-2015, 03:40 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
That's different from the UEGO how, exactly?

I HAVE the option to calibrate my ****. I'm just lazy.
It's really easy. I think I read a post Braineak had put up a while back. On an open road going a good speed and rpm's, cut the engine off but keep it in gear. Then push the gas peddle and hit the reset button. Being in gear and pushing the gas funnels plenty of fresh air through the exhaust. This way you avoid taking out the actual sensor. This trick has proved invaluable for someone who's sensor is needing calibration every other day lol
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Old 03-25-2015, 03:44 PM   #57
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wtf? I'd never suggest anything like that.
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Old 03-25-2015, 03:46 PM   #58
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Quote:
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wtf? I'd never suggest anything like that.
oh, um i don't know then. The name had brain or something.

BTW, you shouldn't do this on a curvy road btw!
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Old 03-25-2015, 03:47 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hinano View Post
It's really easy. I think I read a post Braineak had put up a while back. On an open road going a good speed and rpm's, cut the engine off but keep it in gear. Then push the gas peddle and hit the reset button. Being in gear and pushing the gas funnels plenty of fresh air through the exhaust. This way you avoid taking out the actual sensor. This trick has proved invaluable for someone who's sensor is needing calibration every other day lol

What the actual **** are you talking about?
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Old 03-25-2015, 03:51 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hinano View Post
It's really easy. I think I read a post Braineak had put up a while back. On an open road going a good speed and rpm's, cut the engine off but keep it in gear. Then push the gas peddle and hit the reset button. Being in gear and pushing the gas funnels plenty of fresh air through the exhaust. This way you avoid taking out the actual sensor. This trick has proved invaluable for someone who's sensor is needing calibration every other day lol
Opening the throttle while parts are moving, expecting pistons to still vac in air to push out fuel.

Why not spend 20mins to calibrate it correctly?

Have you done it at least once correctly? (with your used dirty sensor)
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