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3d printed intake for N/A NA miatas

Old Mar 13, 2014 | 02:42 PM
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I am hoping the newest version can can be rotated to face directly back at the driver and be used an an intake source for a turbo car. Obviously that depends on IC piping but my plan is to make it extremely flexible.
Old Mar 13, 2014 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
you know this is miataturbo.net, right?

not to be confused with miataslowcar.net.
As opposed to nasioc.com?
Old Mar 17, 2014 | 03:50 PM
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how much should this cost? the local ptinter quoted me $500.
Old Mar 17, 2014 | 03:52 PM
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I have paid between $40 and $130. The $130 prints have been the best. Information for that printer is in this thread a few posts back.
Old Mar 17, 2014 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Dunning Kruger Affect
As opposed to nasioc.com?
lol, being a fellow Suby enthusiast, I get it...

Originally Posted by asmasm
I have paid between $40 and $130. The $130 prints have been the best. Information for that printer is in this thread a few posts back.
For the size of the part, you are getting a heck of a deal. Good stuff in this thread...I still strongly suggest some fiberglass reinforcement before you run it underhood.
Old Mar 17, 2014 | 04:55 PM
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From my research it looks like it is difficult to layup ontop of ABS plastic and get a good bond. Also, you would need to print the plastic significantly thinner than the current 3mm wall thickness, which is problematic. Right now the duct just barely rubs the hood support structure so there is basically no extra room to make the part thicker.

For the new design I am working on a version that is snapped together in 12 pieces The idea is that you can layup carbon fiber sleeves overtop, then un-snap the pieces and remove them:
Attached Thumbnails 3d printed intake for N/A NA miatas-vvwjuax.jpg  

Last edited by asmasm; Mar 17, 2014 at 06:14 PM.
Old Mar 17, 2014 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by asmasm
I have paid between $40 and $130. The $130 prints have been the best. Information for that printer is in this thread a few posts back.
Thanks. I don't know how I overlooked that.

So do y'all think the ABS as it stands will tolerate being used on a daily driver? I will wrap it in thermal insulating tape for heat protection, or is this something that will end up with a stress fracture and me on the of the road at 2am fixing it with gorilla tape and cursing asmasm's name? (not that I'd really wish you harm, I just get frustrated when I'm stranded at 1am.)
Old Mar 17, 2014 | 06:06 PM
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So far so good on my car. I have driven around town, an hour and a half each way to an auto-x, and up to VIR for a few hours of driving like a total ******* on a skidpad. I have also driven through rain, and the skidpad was soaking wet with no issues.

Last edited by asmasm; Mar 17, 2014 at 08:41 PM.
Old Mar 18, 2014 | 11:35 AM
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Good deal. Will the new design work with a MAF? I'm building in stages and don't have a standalone yet, but cooler air is still good.

Would it be possible to go through the hole on the passenger side of the car, or does the top neck/cap of the radiator prevent that? Perhaps that side would be too short anyhow.

This is just an idea, but I saw you talking about using this as a mold and then dissolving the plastic to leave the composite form. Could you reduce the overall dimensions to account for the final product, and then use a kevlar bi-axial sleeve to create the final form? The sleeves I've read about are very versital, I think a 3" sleeve would be able to accommodate all of the contours, and it layers well. Kevlar can with stand something to the tune of 320 degrees continuous without failure, and even past failure it doesn't completely disintegrate. I'm pretty sure degradation is linear. Just a thought. This is all assuming the ABS shows weakness at some point.

Last edited by jj1000; Mar 18, 2014 at 11:46 AM.
Old Mar 18, 2014 | 11:52 AM
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The kevalr itself doesnt really care about the heat, it can go a bunch hotter than that. The resin will be the upper limiter for temperature. And doing glass/carbon/kevlar over ABS is no big deal, perfectly acceptable way to make even an intake manifold.
Old Mar 18, 2014 | 12:08 PM
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So you could just leave the ABS in and run it? I'm fine with that, just didn't know if it would lead to the ABS degrading on the inside without any knowledge of a potential failure. Wikipedia says ABS is stable to 176°F.
Old Mar 18, 2014 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jj1000
Good deal. Will the new design work with a MAF? I'm building in stages and don't have a standalone yet, but cooler air is still good.
asmasm's car has the MAF still installed.
Old Mar 18, 2014 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Dunning Kruger Affect
asmasm's car has the MAF still installed.
Thanks, I just didn't see it in the second rendering.

Asmasm, have you tested the second design yet, and do you intend to make it open source as well? I was emailing Austin and he said he didn't want to print the new one without your consent.
Old Mar 18, 2014 | 07:21 PM
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The new one hasn't even been test fit yet. I should have one arriving tomorrow to do the initial fit but I am guessing it will need a second iteration. The first design took ~7 passes of tweaks with 4 different printings. It will be compatible with the MAF but only when using this exact elbow:

Edit: that elbow ended up being garbage. I am now just using a silicone intakes 2.75 to 2.75 45 degree.

The leg length is important here. The 2.75" to 2.5" reducing elbow silicone intakes sells has legs that are too short.

I am holding off on opening up the newest design to everyone until I know it isn't going to cause a problem with getting a composite version released. Personally, I really want a fiberglass or carbon version for peace of mind. If my plan for a plug that breaks up into pieces works out I will release the design since I can make it for myself.


Edit:
I am going to order some epoxy resin from fiberglast and test the bonding strength to ABS.

Last edited by asmasm; Mar 21, 2014 at 04:48 PM.
Old Mar 18, 2014 | 08:36 PM
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Try Uscomposites for resin. It's a good product and priced right.
Epoxy : Epoxy Resins and Hardeners



No, I don't work there. Been using their stuff for years and never had a single issue.
Old Mar 18, 2014 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Boris
Try Uscomposites for resin. It's a good product and priced right.
Epoxy :-Epoxy Resins and Hardeners



No, I don't work there. Been using their stuff for years and never had a single issue.
Oh wow, its convenient cheaper than west systems.
Old Mar 18, 2014 | 08:45 PM
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In my other hobby, we use tons of this stuff and I get all my cloth from them as well.
They have some cool weaves that would be perfect for this application.
Dye the resin and you can get an awesome part even with a wet layup.

Oh yeah, they ship instantly.
Old Mar 19, 2014 | 03:34 PM
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I ordered the fiberglast system 3000 high temp epoxy resin. It's rated up to 250 degrees without a post cure.
Old Mar 20, 2014 | 07:56 PM
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So how do we order one of the new ones with the 45 degree angle? And how much?
Old Mar 21, 2014 | 09:17 AM
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I got the first one in the mail on Wednesday and had to make changes. When I have one that fits I will let you know.

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