Base timing on built engine
#1
Base timing on built engine
Hey guys,
I'm a total noob on this subject. I have an 04 msm with a built 99 engine 8.25/1 compression ratio. I tried to set my base timing on tunerstudio but I can't get the timing mark on the pulley to match the 10 and the T even with trigger set to 20*.
I'm thinking since my engine internal has been modified that the factory timing marks are no longer accurate. Should I remove the spark plugs and find top dead center and make new timing marks on the pulley?
Any advice would be nice.
I'm a total noob on this subject. I have an 04 msm with a built 99 engine 8.25/1 compression ratio. I tried to set my base timing on tunerstudio but I can't get the timing mark on the pulley to match the 10 and the T even with trigger set to 20*.
I'm thinking since my engine internal has been modified that the factory timing marks are no longer accurate. Should I remove the spark plugs and find top dead center and make new timing marks on the pulley?
Any advice would be nice.
#2
I have more questions than answers.
When you tried to set the timing, did you set your timing table to fixed advance? Tried negative *?
and no changing the internals should not affect your timing marks.
Unless you are running a aftermarket crank pulley that's marked incorrectly?
When you tried to set the timing, did you set your timing table to fixed advance? Tried negative *?
and no changing the internals should not affect your timing marks.
Unless you are running a aftermarket crank pulley that's marked incorrectly?
Last edited by JakZe; 03-25-2021 at 03:05 AM.
#3
I have more questions than answers.
When you tried to set the timing, did you set your timing table to fixed advance? Tried negative *?
and no changing the internals should not affect your timing marks.
Unless you are running a aftermarket crank pulley that's marked incorrectly?
When you tried to set the timing, did you set your timing table to fixed advance? Tried negative *?
and no changing the internals should not affect your timing marks.
Unless you are running a aftermarket crank pulley that's marked incorrectly?
#4
What are you using for a crank trigger wheel? Is it at all possible you've installed the OEM trigger wheel flipped? From what I know, I think you can assemble it backwards and it's not 100% symmetrical. Stock ECU just won't start.
You could do the screwdriver trick to get close, but wouldn't really be the correct way to fix it.
You could do the screwdriver trick to get close, but wouldn't really be the correct way to fix it.
#5
What are you using for a crank trigger wheel? Is it at all possible you've installed the OEM trigger wheel flipped? From what I know, I think you can assemble it backwards and it's not 100% symmetrical. Stock ECU just won't start.
You could do the screwdriver trick to get close, but wouldn't really be the correct way to fix it.
You could do the screwdriver trick to get close, but wouldn't really be the correct way to fix it.
#8
[QUOTE=deezums;1596097]No, but the NA "trigger wheel" is different.
You've got the right trigger pattern selected, I assume. Can you post a composite log?[/QUOTE
]
I selected the miata 99-05 trigger pattern . I'm not sure what a composite log is. FYI the car runs perfectly fine and idles great.
You've got the right trigger pattern selected, I assume. Can you post a composite log?[/QUOTE
]
I selected the miata 99-05 trigger pattern . I'm not sure what a composite log is. FYI the car runs perfectly fine and idles great.
#9
It's just a log of what the megasquirt is seeing for trigger pattern. In tunerstudio it's under diagnostics and high speed loggers tab across the top of the dash display.
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...g-10%2A-85962/
I assume you have the timing set right? What have you got for cam pulleys?
The plug wires are in the proper order?
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...g-10%2A-85962/
I assume you have the timing set right? What have you got for cam pulleys?
The plug wires are in the proper order?
#10
Another possibility is a bad crank damper. It's made of 2 pieces of steel joined by rubber. If the rubber degrades enough the outer ring can shift in relation to the inner.
I would use the screwdriver test to verify the marks on the damper aren't totally wrong. If that checks out then keep looking for your problem. You can't get close enough with that method to just run it that way.
I would use the screwdriver test to verify the marks on the damper aren't totally wrong. If that checks out then keep looking for your problem. You can't get close enough with that method to just run it that way.
Last edited by SpartanSV; 03-25-2021 at 11:06 PM.
#11
Another possibility is a bad crank damper. It's made of 2 pieces of steel joined by rubber. If the rubber degrades enough the outer ring can shift in relation to the inner.
I would use the screwdriver test to varify the marks on the damper aren't totally wrong. If that checks out then keep looking for your problem. You can't get close enough with that method to just run it that way.
I would use the screwdriver test to varify the marks on the damper aren't totally wrong. If that checks out then keep looking for your problem. You can't get close enough with that method to just run it that way.
As for the crank pulley, it seems pretty solid. The rubber is alittle cracked but I'll double check.
#13
Update
Okay guys here is an update. I've done the screw driver trick and the timing marks line up. I've also checked the gap between the cas and trigger wheel. It's about the width of a credit card. I also checked my cop wiring on tunerstudio and it was correct. At thi point I'm thinking u should just replace the crank pulley?(really don't want to pay the extra money if I don't have to)
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