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Old 07-07-2010, 05:24 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
removing the thermostat does nothing. unless it's stuck closed.


False






FACT is not only I have seen a visible difference in cooling but so have others (proven with properly installed mechanical water temp gauge)


I was trying to offer what I know works/helps in a track setting based on my own personal experience. Have you ever even tried to do this? I have my doubts!



But I'm not going to sit here and argue over this with you or anyone else so my post about 'tips' is done. Do as you want and gluck!
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Old 07-07-2010, 05:24 PM   #22
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I already told you what to do in email, and that was to make ducting to force air through the heat exchangers.
http://www.pitstopusa.com/SearchResu...ategoryID=2749

Right now ISC racing has the best water reroute on the market if you can't make your own, like a man. You have to call them though because their website sucks my ***...and feel free to send me their rear swaybar as a service fee. Any reroute you buy from anyone else will have shitty adapters, external thermostat housings, and crappy rubber hose with a spring in it. The ISC one is all metal and all man, and I know you have a thing for men in general. You don't have to deal with 4' of rubber hose to weather and fail in a couple years.

I built my own out of necessity because I demand reliability first and foremost. I bet Abe could make a copy of mine if you're interested. He's about to convert mine to hardpipes.


I thought a shop was going to "move the intercooler" in a failed attempt to make it cool?
You're so hot to me right now.
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Old 07-07-2010, 05:25 PM   #23
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removing the thermostat does nothing. unless it's stuck closed.
but if I move the water faster, it will move through the radiator faster and not sit in the heat exchanger to cool!!!


It may work in an SM, but it won't work in a turbo car. I don't get why people can't listen to us. I've made it a personal mission to educate the turbo miata world on cooling, I'm not an engineer but my coolant temps don't go above 190* on the racetrack in the summer heat at 95*.
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Old 07-07-2010, 05:27 PM   #24
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okay

perhaps things are indeed different for a turbo and cooling, you got me there

I conceed
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Old 07-07-2010, 05:31 PM   #25
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okay

perhaps things are indeed different for a turbo and cooling, you got me there

I conceed
It may work, it may not...but I wouldn't expect it to work nor would I want to deal with that on the street. The cooling system also can't build pressure in the block without the restriction, so the water boils sooner than a system with a restriction.
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Old 07-07-2010, 05:32 PM   #26
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Are there write ups for the ducting? Easy to do? What do you reccomend Hustler, since you're so good at it.
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Old 07-07-2010, 05:42 PM   #27
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Pressure builds up regardless (it is a closed system after all and if no pressure, you have a leak to address that is a more pressing matter!)


Where it is not wise to use is if the ambient temp is 40 degrees or colder as you never allow the engine to properly warm up!


My friend has his removed in his daily driver/track car but he won;t drive the car when it is 40 or colder out since he has another car to drive as well.

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It may work, it may not...but I wouldn't expect it to work nor would I want to deal with that on the street. The cooling system also can't build pressure in the block without the restriction, so the water boils sooner than a system with a restriction.
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Old 07-07-2010, 06:14 PM   #28
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My friend has his removed in his daily driver/track car but he won;t drive the car when it is 40 or colder out since he has another car to drive as well.
This is me, and those of you trying to dispute the fact that removing the thermostat works, its a simple project to do and takes maybe 10 min to test it out.

The thermostat is very VERY restrictive to the fluid and is there to regulate the flow of the the liquid passing through it (to get the car up to temp faster basicly) Removing it (as well as disconecting the sensor with it) allows the fluid to circulate with out being restricted, keeping the temp of the fluid cooler because it moves as fast as the waterpump can push it through the system with no restrictions.

If your system runs cool, the only negative effects to it will be the car runing a bit more rich than usual, but make sure to have the proper guages to monitor those things properly.
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Old 07-07-2010, 07:02 PM   #29
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my car was overheating at the start of the year... i did 3 things at once:
1)less coolant... more water and a bottle of water wetter
2)new cooler thermostat (180 down from the 190 stocker...debatable how much this helped)
3) added the factory underpan back to the car.


granted i already have a mishimoto thick core rad, but i have never seen the temp move from just below vertical (operating temp)

monday i was out ripping and it was ~40degrees Celcius (104 degrees F) + humidity factor. it was hot enough out that spool was affected.
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Old 07-07-2010, 07:29 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by chris101 View Post
Pressure builds up regardless (it is a closed system after all and if no pressure, you have a leak to address that is a more pressing matter!)

Where it is not wise to use is if the ambient temp is 40 degrees or colder as you never allow the engine to properly warm up!
I see 160*F within 5 minutes of driving, typically before I'm out of my neighborhood. I always see 185-187*F driving around, fans do not typically turn on. If it does, the temps drop back to 190*F within a minute. and drop back to 185*F once I start moving again. In this >100*F weather, I have yet to see over 202*F with the a/c running on full blast. I've done nothing special to my cooling system, just done it proper. Stock thermostat, stock fans, stock heater outlet. Simply a reroute, slim aluminum rad, and some shrouding. Hell, I still run a 60/40 mixture.
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Old 07-07-2010, 07:33 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
I see 160*F within 5 minutes of driving, typically before I'm out of my neighborhood. I always see 185-187*F driving around, fans do not typically turn on. If it does, the temps drop back to 190*F within a minute. and drop back to 185*F once I start moving again. In this >100*F weather, I have yet to see over 202*F with the a/c running on full blast. I've done nothing special to my cooling system, just done it proper. Stock thermostat, stock fans, stock heater outlet. Simply a reroute, slim aluminum rad, and some shrouding. Hell, I still run a 60/40 mixture.
Is that with just regular city driving or also highway cruising? If I'm constantly above 3.5k rpms with the AC on it starts to overheat. Otherwise it's fine around town.
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Old 07-07-2010, 07:36 PM   #32
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I don't have any overheating issues when I'm just DD'ing, even when it is 115*+, it stays below vertical. Only time I have had issue when I was beating on it on the track.
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Old 07-07-2010, 07:54 PM   #33
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Right now ISC racing has the best water reroute on the market if you can't make your own, like a man. You have to call them though because their website sucks my ***
Better than the M-Tuned? If so, why? I tried calling, but got their answering machine.

C
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Old 07-07-2010, 09:07 PM   #34
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Better than the M-Tuned? If so, why? I tried calling, but got their answering machine.

C
Read my post again...all metal pipes means o janky rubber **** with ghetto springs and no remote garbage thermostat.

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Originally Posted by RavynX View Post
Is that with just regular city driving or also highway cruising? If I'm constantly above 3.5k rpms with the AC on it starts to overheat. Otherwise it's fine around town.
load is more important than rpm.
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Are there write ups for the ducting? Easy to do? What do you recommend Hustler, since you're so good at it.
Search this forum and good luck. The threads are here but I don't know where to send you without searching creatively.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feus View Post
This is me, and those of you trying to dispute the fact that removing the thermostat works, its a simple project to do and takes maybe 10 min to test it out.

The thermostat is very VERY restrictive to the fluid and is there to regulate the flow of the the liquid passing through it (to get the car up to temp faster basicly) Removing it (as well as disconecting the sensor with it) allows the fluid to circulate with out being restricted, keeping the temp of the fluid cooler because it moves as fast as the waterpump can push it through the system with no restrictions.
I agree that it may work, but considering the amount of time water is in the heat-exchanger I'm not sure its an absolute solution for a turbo car in Arizona. I have a friend who works at Risi and I know they rely on ducting and heat exchanger inlet sizing (for aero) and they run no thermostat but 3 different sized restrictors to slow flow in different temperatures. I believe years ago he told me they aim to heat-soak the radiator, then adjust the airflow to the radiators (on the exit side).

I firmly believe that ducting and a belly pan is the "right" way to do it because then everything works properly and all you have to do is turn the key to drive it in winter or August at the track, rather than switch everything around. I don't understand everyone's aversion to ducting but I presume its because there is no off-the-shelf product to sell for it.

Last edited by hustler; 07-07-2010 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 07-07-2010, 09:28 PM   #35
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Read my post again...all metal pipes means o janky rubber **** with ghetto springs and no remote garbage thermostat.
I meant the ISC one.

C
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Old 07-07-2010, 10:13 PM   #36
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Look up genesplicer's build thread for a brief write up and some great pictures on how to properly, cheaply, and incredibly effectively make your radiator/intercooler ducting.
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Old 07-07-2010, 10:18 PM   #37
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Look up genesplicer's build thread for a brief write up and some great pictures on how to properly, cheaply, and incredibly effectively make your radiator/intercooler ducting.
Thanks
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Old 07-07-2010, 11:02 PM   #38
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I have done a Reroute with no tstat and a Ebay radiator. In Florida I'm doing 185*F all day with a 50/50 mix of full concentrated coolant and water. Getting ready for the track days with ducting, parallel wiring, and maybe a hood extractor.
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Old 07-08-2010, 12:31 AM   #39
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I firmly believe that ducting and a belly pan is the "right" way to do it because then everything works properly and all you have to do is turn the key to drive it in winter or August at the track, rather than switch everything around. I don't understand everyone's aversion to ducting but I presume its because there is no off-the-shelf product to sell for it.
I agree that you should have a belly pan and routing the air through the radiator is the proper way to go, BUT that doesn't always solve the issue. I still have the belly pan, and was at the track on the stock radiator, running water with water wetter, the heat blasting ect. and the temp was still getting too high. I ended up removing the T Stat., and getting a Koyo Radiator and problem was solved.

This is all about asking how to make the engine run cooler. Hence the response.
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Old 07-08-2010, 02:20 AM   #40
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I googled isc coolant reroute and came with nothing. Any pictures of this setup? How much was it? And if Abe can replicate hustler's reroute, how much would that be?
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