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Old 01-05-2012, 03:31 PM   #101
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Well I haven't done any serious driving since 2010 :( I moved and have been deplyed for the last year. Planning on a 1.8 swap soon hopefully. I did go all water/water wetter though which worked for the track day I made this thread for.
duct your radiator next time damn it.
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Old 01-05-2012, 03:35 PM   #102
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Yeah I imagine I will do that when I take everything out.
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Old 01-05-2012, 03:48 PM   #103
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Yeah I imagine I will do that when I take everything out.
You have to duct it or it won't work on the track when you learn to drive like a man. Buy a roll of plastic from speedway and a bunch of rivets, thank me later. I'll take detailed pics of my oil cooler set-up if you promise to play handball with me.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:14 PM   #104
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I'm not sure how you get that the water pump can function at different speeds based on how hot the engine is. I'm also not sure where you get two different pumps at.
In fairness, by "power plants" I suspect he was talking about commercial power generation or some other industrial application.

That said, removal of the thermostat is indeed evil. Yes, it will increase the rate of flow through the system. But removing that restriction also takes away the key element which causes the coolant pressure within the engine itself to run 1 or 2 atmospheres above the coolant pressure in the radiator, and this increase in pressure does increase the boiling point of the coolant within the engine, which retards the nucleate boiling process.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:47 PM   #105
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In fairness, by "power plants" I suspect he was talking about commercial power generation or some other industrial application.

That said, removal of the thermostat is indeed evil. Yes, it will increase the rate of flow through the system. But removing that restriction also takes away the key element which causes the coolant pressure within the engine itself to run 1 or 2 atmospheres above the coolant pressure in the radiator, and this increase in pressure does increase the boiling point of the coolant within the engine, which retards the nucleate boiling process.



Good info here, never thought of it that way.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:45 PM   #106
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Thats why you gut it instead (great explanation btw Joe! prop ). Get ducting first, thats wayy more important than maximizing flow.
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:14 AM   #107
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Get ducting first, thats wayy more important than maximizing flow.
It has everything to do with flow, of air through the fins of the rad

As with the powerplant example, there is little use to increase the flow on only one side of the heat transfer, especially if the flow on the other side is the one that needs fixing first.

Does anyone know what the pressure difference over the Tstat is at high (but non-cavitating) revs?
Just curious of how much higher the pressure is in the head compared to the rad cap.
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:43 AM   #108
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I spent 2 days under my car - bumper removed - to do a proper ducting...

Before that, I tried everything I could think of to get the car to cool off - it would cruise at 215* easy at 80mph, I was cycling the A/C off so that it wouldn't go above 235*

Now that everything is sealed up, I'm willing to bet that my ~160* thermostat is very rarely full-open. On a 95* day, at 80mph, with the A/C on full blast, I think I was able to get the water temp up to 192* once. I realize it's not track driving, but compare the before-after of doing a proper duct job with that...
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:02 AM   #109
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It has everything to do with flow, of air through the fins of the rad

As with the powerplant example, there is little use to increase the flow on only one side of the heat transfer, especially if the flow on the other side is the one that needs fixing first.

Does anyone know what the pressure difference over the Tstat is at high (but non-cavitating) revs?
Just curious of how much higher the pressure is in the head compared to the rad cap.
Ducting the radiator is much more important than a gutted thermostat. I am not sure what you are trying to say.
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Old 01-06-2012, 11:43 AM   #110
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Ducting the radiator is much more important than a gutted thermostat. I am not sure what you are trying to say.
Just that, nothing more, nothing less.
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Old 01-07-2012, 12:23 AM   #111
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You have to duct it or it won't work on the track when you learn to drive like a man. Buy a roll of plastic from speedway and a bunch of rivets, thank me later. I'll take detailed pics of my oil cooler set-up if you promise to play handball with me.
Speedway has it for sale right now. Just bought a roll.
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Old 01-07-2012, 04:30 AM   #112
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Speedway? Link to sight please
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Old 01-07-2012, 07:32 AM   #113
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Speedway? Link to sight please
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garage...eet,35873.html I guess.
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Old 03-22-2012, 03:37 AM   #114
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would removing the AC condenser have an effect? Seems like it should increase the amount of air that the radiator sees by a good amount, what with all the bent fins that they all must have by now.
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Old 03-22-2012, 03:43 AM   #115
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would removing the AC condenser have an effect? Seems like it should increase the amount of air that the radiator sees by a good amount, what with all the bent fins that they all must have by now.
Massive effect.

FYI, removing the thermostat is not a good idea. The pressure gradient produced across the thermostat is what moves water through the system. I run a gutted thermostat in Theseus, so you can do that if you want, but don't just remove it.
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