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The Definitive "VVT swap into 90-97 chassis" Megathread.

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The Definitive "VVT swap into 90-97 chassis" Megathread.

 
Old 09-08-2014, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
99-00 coils are garbage, you're much better off retaining your stock 1.6/1.8 coils if you are doing a BP4W swap. I specifically left 99-00 coil info off the OP for that reason.
Yeah I know, I wrote those for 99-00 swapping a VvT in and using 01-05 ignition.

That was why I asked the question regarding the caps but I didn't install one in the harness (NB1) but will put one in the toolbox just in case or modify the other (NB2) harness
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by greddygalant View Post
Ben,
My 92 is the one curly mentioned, would you happen to have a link to an aftermarket tach adapter that would work for such an application?
Many exist. Here is one style:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8913
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Old 09-08-2014, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by joyrider View Post
Yeah I know, I wrote those for 99-00 swapping a VvT in and using 01-05 ignition.
Touche, I'll add to the OP.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:31 AM
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Just FYI the stock 90-97 spark plug wires will fit into the VVT VC if you trim the rubber a little bit. I used a razor blade and slowly removed rubber off the top of the boot until they fit down fine. I have had no problems with them like that.
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Old 09-22-2014, 02:46 PM
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So where should the NA harness ECU ground point go?
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Old 09-22-2014, 02:54 PM
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The bracket for the 94-97 ECU grounds can be transferred over to the 01+ block. IIRC, the OEM 90-93 ECU grounds attach to the back of the intake manifold, and those can just be attached to the 99+ manifold.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 09-28-2014, 06:29 PM
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Where do you typically route the extra wires through the firewall to the ECU?
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Old 09-28-2014, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by zerogt86 View Post
Where do you typically route the extra wires through the firewall to the ECU?
I put mine through the holes from the A/C delete.
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Old 10-17-2014, 10:55 PM
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Alrightly. So Oregonmon has his VVT swapped '90 with a MS3, and GreddyGalant has his MSM swapped '92 now with a MS2PNP.

They're both screaming for tachs.

I've Ctrl-f'd every post with the word "tach" in it, and all they seem to say is "wire it to the tach".

Is this at the cluster? One of the ignitor wires I capped? Please spoon feed wire color and location. Thanks.
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Old 10-18-2014, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by curly View Post
I've Ctrl-f'd every post with the word "tach" in it, and all they seem to say is "wire it to the tach".

Is this at the cluster? One of the ignitor wires I capped? Please spoon feed wire color and location. Thanks.
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post


route 4 (yellow/blue) to 5 (black/white) (connects ECU directly to tachometer at gauge cluster)
Following the instructions in the op connects the tachometer in the cluster to the tach output wire (2I). If you've connected it that way, and you have a tach driver circuit, and it still doesn't work, you probably need a pullup resistor.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 10-18-2014, 01:31 AM
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Yup I did that, so just connect the tach output pin on the MS3 to 2I?
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Old 10-18-2014, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
you probably need a pullup resistor.
Ok someone explain this?

Is this the 1k ohm resistor between -IG and GND in the diagnostic connector?

Tried that (both ways) and it didn't work. Black/white and yellow/blue are soldered together, tacho pin is enabled in TS, and still no tach. WTF.
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Old 10-18-2014, 08:37 PM
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Pullup resistors are (by definition) between a signal and a voltage. +B to -IG and your tach will work.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 10-18-2014, 08:56 PM
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Well, I thought I had it, but nope. 1k ohm resistor between -IG and B+ now and still nothing. Resistor flipped both ways, multiple resistors tried. Any other clues?
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Old 10-19-2014, 02:21 AM
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Put a direct wire between 2I and your tach input on the instrument cluster. I did it this way and it works (on my 97 1.6 Euro NA there was no wire from 2I to the igniter)
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Old 10-19-2014, 03:17 AM
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Wire your tach signal from the cluster to pin 10 on the DB37.
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Originally Posted by ninerwfo View Post
The “into to megasquirt thread” mentions that the MS3 basic has 5 inputs with built in pull up resistors - and I was just wondering why it would have so many, while the MS3Pro PnP has just 2 (with no pull ups?)
MS Labs: Plug and Play Megasquirt ECUs for ANY 90-05 Miata (NA, NB1, NB2 w/VVT, MSM), including basemaps to get you started ASAP. PM me or email or details.
For support on MS Labs ECUs: Please email, be sure to include the unit's serial number and include a datalog and your current map.
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post
Put a direct wire between 2I and your tach input on the instrument cluster. I did it this way and it works (on my 97 1.6 Euro NA there was no wire from 2I to the igniter)
On every 90-93 USDM car, if you loop the wires as directed in the OP, you get a wire that is connected from 2I (black/white) to the cluster (yellow/blue) without routing a redundant wire to do the same job. Just FYI. Adding a wire to do that job is unnecessary and clutters things up.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by curly View Post
Well, I thought I had it, but nope. 1k ohm resistor between -IG and B+ now and still nothing. Resistor flipped both ways, multiple resistors tried. Any other clues?
ECU settings, then. That I can't help with.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 10-19-2014, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by curly View Post
Alrightly. So Oregonmon has his VVT swapped '90 with a MS3, and GreddyGalant has his MSM swapped '92 now with a MS2PNP.

They're both screaming for tachs.

I've Ctrl-f'd every post with the word "tach" in it, and all they seem to say is "wire it to the tach".

Is this at the cluster? One of the ignitor wires I capped? Please spoon feed wire color and location. Thanks.
Post tunes? Tach out set correctly? Pretty sure the ms3x card needs a jumper, but if its an mslabs ecu I'm not sure how Rev has that set up. Just throwing out ideas. According to this tach out is turned off by default.
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Old 11-01-2014, 08:45 AM
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Thanks for putting this together.

I'm in the process of selling my entire powertrain (engine, trans, MS3, etc etc) and turbo setup to someone with a NA (think its a 95).

I'm going to install a LFX.

Being that we can use all of those working bits (I'm keeping my radiator/ fans, throttle cable, steering) how much of this will be necessary to perform the swap? I imagine I will be forced to use the GM harness and ECU so I could even swap over the harness.

We are thinking we'll simply take everything out of my car and swap it over to his.
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