Fitting Crankshaft Sensor To A Mk1 1997 Uk spec
#1
Fitting Crankshaft Sensor To A Mk1 1997 Uk spec
Hello i have a 1997 mk1
i want to install a crankshaft sensor, due to having issues with starter kickback when cold.
from what i understand i need a mk2 crankshaft pulley boss and crank sensor installed on the oil pump i will be using a 36-1 or 36-2 wheel
i understand that i wire the crank sensor into my factory wiring for the cas, what i want to know is what do i do with the cas, can i unplug and let the megasquirt ms2 just run off of the crank signal, and not utilise the cas
Thanks
i want to install a crankshaft sensor, due to having issues with starter kickback when cold.
from what i understand i need a mk2 crankshaft pulley boss and crank sensor installed on the oil pump i will be using a 36-1 or 36-2 wheel
i understand that i wire the crank sensor into my factory wiring for the cas, what i want to know is what do i do with the cas, can i unplug and let the megasquirt ms2 just run off of the crank signal, and not utilise the cas
Thanks
#5
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MS2/MS3 firmware. This is a known issue on wheels that have few teeth, the timing is sometimes wrong and results in starter kickback. Installing a 36-2 crank wheel completely solves the issue.
#9
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Cut off the inner two teeth, cut off 3 out of the 4 outer teeth,then you can run sequential injection and ignition again.
Edit: 36-2 is reserved for the 99-05 with the factory cam sensor. You will need to run Toothed Wheel mode, set Dual Wheel with missing tooth, then set number of teeth to 36, missing teeth to 2. Main wheel set to crank speed.
Edit: 36-2 is reserved for the 99-05 with the factory cam sensor. You will need to run Toothed Wheel mode, set Dual Wheel with missing tooth, then set number of teeth to 36, missing teeth to 2. Main wheel set to crank speed.
#11
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The inner teeth (two) are the "Cam" signal but this doesn't matter, you will be cutting wires anyway to do this mod. So you will use one of the four outer teetth (which are normally the "Crank" teeth) and use the crank trigger as the actual crank teeth. I've given you a basic guideline above, you'll need to figure out the rest.
#12
The inner teeth (two) are the "Cam" signal but this doesn't matter, you will be cutting wires anyway to do this mod. So you will use one of the four outer teetth (which are normally the "Crank" teeth) and use the crank trigger as the actual crank teeth. I've given you a basic guideline above, you'll need to figure out the rest.
how do i know which teeth to remove out of the four which one will i leave alone.
would it be possible to use a nb valve cover with cam sensor on the cam wheel
#13
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Yes, that would be easy to do. You will need to get a valve cover, sensor, connector and a NB intake cam gear (has the teeth the sensor reads). You will get 12V and ground for both sensors (crank/cam) from the CAS, and route the signal from each back to the CAS connector wiring. Then use the Miata 36-2 mode and you're golden. One thing to note - you really do need to get the FM 36-2 wheel, not ANY other 36-1 or 36-2 wheel. Using any other wheel may not work.
#14
Yes, that would be easy to do. You will need to get a valve cover, sensor, connector and a NB intake cam gear (has the teeth the sensor reads). You will get 12V and ground for both sensors (crank/cam) from the CAS, and route the signal from each back to the CAS connector wiring. Then use the Miata 36-2 mode and you're golden. One thing to note - you really do need to get the FM 36-2 wheel, not ANY other 36-1 or 36-2 wheel. Using any other wheel may not work.
thanks for the advice/help
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