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Old 01-21-2010, 11:25 AM
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Ya, Scott did all the research for us before I bought the mani. Theoretically, it should work well. My torque drops from 270 at 5k to 210 at redline, If I can get some of that back then it's a win.
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Old 01-21-2010, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by miataspeed2005
I've been thinking about doing the same thing but i didn't want to be the test dummie.
When your done make sure you post some pics and share the info.
BTW hows your gym and diet doing....sorry for jumping out of the thread


I'll post up everything about what I do to fit it with plenty of pics. Gym and diet is going well, look for a pm from me.
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Old 01-21-2010, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by levnubhin
Ya, Scott did all the research for us before i bought the mani. Theoretically, it should work.
you give me WAY too much credit.

Originally Posted by levnubhin
Gym and diet is going well, look for a pm from me.
wow, miataturboner.com?
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Old 01-21-2010, 11:33 AM
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lol
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Old 01-21-2010, 11:35 AM
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your HP would be 320 if you could keep torque to 240 at 7K.

I wonder how much our cam profiles come into play as well....
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:21 PM
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I can't wait to see how this turns out. How much length do you think you will have to cut off the runners so it doesn't hit the chassis? What throttle-body are you thinking about using?
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by djp0623
I can't wait to see how this turns out. How much length do you think you will have to cut off the runners so it doesn't hit the chassis? What throttle-body are you thinking about using?
Not sure, gonna have to wait until it gets here to take measurements. Probably just going to run an Integra throttle body as they are already like 10mm larger than ours. I might have it bored out by maxbore.com.
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:38 PM
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I started a thread on this and was going to do this a few months ago lol.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t39239/

Im going with the Edelbrock VictorX when I get to needing this. After our dyno day though, my power kept going up with zero drop off so I might not even bother ever. Im glad your going to do this though phil. curious to see the results
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Old 01-21-2010, 01:01 PM
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Subscribed for results
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Old 01-21-2010, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by leatherface24
I started a thread on this and was going to do this a few months ago lol.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t39239/

Im going with the Edelbrock VictorX when I get to needing this. After our dyno day though, my power kept going up with zero drop off so I might not even bother ever. Im glad your going to do this though phil. curious to see the results
Did you pick up the mani shown in your thread? If so, I'll take it off your hands.

-Damon
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Old 01-21-2010, 01:24 PM
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Everything I read about the Victor X on a b16 or b18 is that is sucks, unless you have major headwork and a motor that can spin to 10K. The thing is tuned for an rpm band of 6000-10000RPM, while the Performer X is tuned for 4000-7000RPM.

People complain a lot about loss of spool and peak HP and TQ, awesome!

I have a bunch of posts about it in some IM thread.
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Old 01-21-2010, 01:30 PM
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here gays:

Originally Posted by Braineack
Have you considered the PerformerX? The slightly longer runners should put it's power band within a better range for your motor, the VictorX is tuned for something like 7000-10000RPM, while the PerformerX 4000-7000RPM. If you search through honda-tech I'm sure youll find a bunch of people that complain the victorX gave them no extra peak TQ and lost a **** ton of low-end due to this fact. You could also look into the Skunk2 Pro IM as it should be better within a 8000RPM rev limiter as well. There's also the BLox, which is crazy cheap ($175 on ebay)

...I'm looking for the post of all the available IMs on a flow bench....cant find it.

here's a good writeup, too bad the dyno graphs aren't showing up: Intake manifold test results on a 1.8L Edelbrock ITR IBspec Take a look! - Honda-Tech notice how he hates the victor X but like the performer...

Alas, the dynos don't load on this one as well...



I also urge you do not us a Mustang TB, you can get an ITR or civic TB for cheap and get it bore out to 70mm at www.maxbore.com you also don't have to redrill the manifold...
Originally Posted by Braineack
here's a dyno of a GSR with the stock IM then the Skunk2:



powerband is perfect.



now check out a skunk2 vs. a victor X:



victorx is failboat.
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Old 01-21-2010, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
Everything I read about the Victor X on a b16 or b18 is that is sucks,
The one I'm asking about, which Jared purchased in that thread, is the exact same Blox (Skunk2 knock-off) that Phil picked up at the beginning of this thread.

I believe you on the VictorX thing.
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Old 01-21-2010, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by faeflora
The plenum on those looks so small though. What is the volume? It doesn't look like it's meant for turboeing.

this:





or this:



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Old 01-21-2010, 02:06 PM
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+1

My rough guess puts the Skunk2 plenum at about 1.82L...not the ideal 1.5xswept volume...but plenty larger than the stocker...

EDIT:

This is based on their cutaway picture and statement that a 75mm throttle body can be fitted before hitting the coolant passages, and assuming it's largely cylindrical in shape.

Last edited by gospeed81; 01-21-2010 at 02:18 PM. Reason: accuracy
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Old 01-21-2010, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
this:

or this:
Answered my question you have not
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Old 01-21-2010, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by gospeed81
+1

My rough guess puts the Skunk2 plenum at about 1.25L...not the ideal 1.5xswept volume...but they say it supports 1200hp...
So does my 16oz coke bottle but that doesn't mean it's optimal. Also, just because everyone uses it doesn't mean it's good. Maybe it's just chezeap and "stage 1" from the stock honda manifold. Blah humbug.
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Old 01-21-2010, 02:41 PM
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im looking...

this is a quote:

The "whale *****" kills velocity and hurts power because of it's large diameter and replaces it with volume. While volume is important too, this intake would be better suited to a much larger displacement motor. The Performer X intake works so well on a 1.8L because it's got plenty of volume in the plenum which helps top end power but the runners are longer than stock, to help velocity/torque in the lower-mid range of the RPM range. This is why when compared to a Skunk2 pro intake, the Px makes better power in the low-mid range. The S2 tends to catch it in the 7-8k range because it has shorter runners. The S2 was designed around a stock manifold and therefore has stock restrictions. The Px is much larger than a stock design and therefore has some fittment issues on some cars but will make more power because it's design was optimized more for power than fit.
to me it looks like it's larger volume than the stock plenum, however, it's not extreme to the point where you'll sacrifice too much low end for top-end. It's all a compromise. I know my plenum was 3.2L and my runners were 6", my peak TQ was 7200RPM.

another quote:
The original Skunk2 unit was very similar in design to the ITR IM, with the exception of a 65mm throat for accepting larger throttlebodies, along with a slightly larger plenum volume.

The Skunk2 Pro IM has longer runners, and a larger plenum volume compared to the original Skunk2 unit. Supposedly it makes 20% more power in some areas versus the old unit, but I havn't seen any data to back that up.
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Old 01-21-2010, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by faeflora
So does my 16oz coke bottle but that doesn't mean it's optimal. Also, just because everyone uses it doesn't mean it's good. Maybe it's just chezeap and "stage 1" from the stock honda manifold. Blah humbug.
I thought you asked what the volume was...(notice I edited it after some scaling in AutoCAD), now => 1.82L

Compare that volume to the swept volume of the motor, and it's almost exactly 100%. Add in the volume of one of those 8" long runners and you're pretty close to the accepted ideal norm for turbocharged applications...150%. I had overlooked that you are supposed to use the plenum volume AND the volume of one runner for that rule of thumb.
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Old 01-21-2010, 03:16 PM
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This is starting to look like it has WIN written all over it. I hope this gets put on the fast track. I've got a stock 1.8 manifold that I can cut the flange off it that's what needs to be done. Otherwise, where do you purchase a new flange?
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