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Old 02-25-2010, 11:00 AM   #81
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Here is a better datalog...two tries.

The resets are happening with the key turned fully forward. Also, my starter is hanging.
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File Type: xls fueldeliveryprobcranking2.xls (58.1 KB, 41 views)
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Old 02-25-2010, 11:34 AM   #82
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Datalog with spare CAS...now getting rpm signal in MT, and pulsewidth on injectors.

Have yet to start it due to timing being way out and flooding it, and battery dying to quick. Looks like I need a new battery as well.

Joe hit it right on the head...THANKS JP!
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Old 02-25-2010, 01:36 PM   #83
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Excellent. I can see from your last log that the two Spark drivers and the CAS 2'nd trigger are all now cycling, and the CPU is also entering Warmup mode, which it wasn't doing before.

And of course, there's an RPM reading.

If those processor resets you were getting were in fact happening during cranking, then they account for the multiple sparks you were getting at the coils. In the default wasted-spark circuit, the outputs tend naturally to be high, and must be actively pulled down by the CPU. At initial powerup (and during a processor reset) the CPU cannot accomplish this, so they float high again, and then when the CPU comes on line, they get pulled down and you get a spark.
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Old 02-25-2010, 01:53 PM   #84
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Yeah, I want to do your spark mod, as all these tries at cranking have resulted in quite a few very loud backfires out the open exhaust.

My battery was toast, and would only take a surface charge, giving me a couple of cranks at a time, despite an overnight deep charge. I just picked up O'Reilly's SuperStart version of the original Miata battery, and hope to be able to crank enough to flood clear and start anew.

Thank you tremendously for the help. Now I just have to fish out that tiny socket my daughter left in the shifter turret so I have all 5 gears again.

Cross your fingers it fires up this time...otherwise tools will fly.
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Old 02-25-2010, 03:49 PM   #85
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In for answers.
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Old 02-25-2010, 11:01 PM   #86
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I think I need a spare CAS.....

I'm not sure if the silence in the post is good or bad.
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Old 02-26-2010, 08:13 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rweatherford View Post
I think I need a spare CAS.....
I'm glad I have one...I thank rharris for that, or I'd be in a tough spot sourcing one right now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rweatherford View Post

I'm not sure if the silence in the post is good or bad.

BAD.

I've got a new battery now, and still can't get it started to save my life.

Need to go back and double check everything now that I've got the second trigger angle going to MS. Seems like either my lock cylinder or it's crummy connector is causing resets, although we touched neither during the motor swap. This and the starter hanging coincided with that.

As far as motor not firing up I'm afraid I'll have to really check the cam timing. I know they're in sequence with each other, but may be out of sequence with the crank. Every time I've had one "skip" teeth this was the case. Will need to pull belt, WP pulley, and the plastic covers.
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Old 02-26-2010, 03:25 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gospeed81 View Post
I'll have to really check the cam timing. I know they're in sequence with each other, but may be out of sequence with the crank. (...) Will need to pull belt, WP pulley, and the plastic covers.
Just use a timing light. (make sure the light is connected to a power source other than the car.)

Lock the MS's "Fixed Angle" at 10 (not -10) and have somebody crank the starter while you observe the pulley.
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Old 02-26-2010, 05:19 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Just use a timing light. (make sure the light is connected to a power source other than the car.)

Lock the MS's "Fixed Angle" at 10 (not -10) and have somebody crank the starter while you observe the pulley.
I forget that we can see the pulley notch without pulling the plastics.

Now that I've woken from my awesome phenergan induced nap I'll check it out.
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Old 02-26-2010, 05:28 PM   #90
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Oh, and disconnect the injectors while you do this. I usually just open that six-pin common connector (X-12) that we'd spoken of earlier. It kills CLT as well, but that doesn't matter if you've got the timing locked down.

Helps if you smear some white paint on the pulley in the vicinity around (but not in) the notch as well.
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Old 02-26-2010, 05:30 PM   #91
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Quote:
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Helps if you smear some white paint on the pulley in the vicinity around (but not in) the notch as well.
she wants my dick...in and around her mouth
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Old 02-26-2010, 06:07 PM   #92
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Mine prefers it in the notch.
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Old 02-26-2010, 07:11 PM   #93
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(Picard facepalm.)
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Old 03-01-2010, 12:49 PM   #94
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Our curiosity in this matter goes unabated.
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Old 03-01-2010, 12:50 PM   #95
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Quote:
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Our curiosity in this matter goes unabated.
ie, what the **** is up, gosped?
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Old 03-01-2010, 12:57 PM   #96
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Have been sick, then wife and daughter got sick...no progress really.

I think my starter is dying. Replaced the battery, and starter hits 300rpm when I turn the key forward, but almost immediately drops back to nothing more than 150rpm. Otherwise it should start.

Been talking to Brainy and he thinks my base timing could be way off from replacing the CAS, so I may need someone to crank it while I see if it's in the neighborhood.
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Old 03-02-2010, 06:33 AM   #97
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Damn, read all 5 pages straight. Atleast you went from parting it out to checking your timing and possibly replacing your starter. Goodluck gettin it finished up, sounds like your close! Just realized it's after 4:30.

/consciousness
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:15 AM   #98
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it sparks and fuels and has compression. I think his ignition is too far off, plus I think his TB might have slipped a tooth or two.
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:29 AM   #99
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That is what kept my newly assembled motor from running. Was off 2 ribs. I was able to find this out by turning the CAS all the way to the passenger side and it finally started but ran rough. I fixed the belt, put the CAS back to its original position and it started up with only a single crank and purred like a kitten.

My thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t43122/
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:37 AM   #100
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I'm 95% sure the TB is fine, but I was using the dipstick-in-cylinder 1 test. I'll remove the valve cover and front pulley and check all three marks if timing doesn't get it back in line.

I honestly just haven't had time to work on it. I really do appreciate the help. The rough part is that these past two weeks I've REALLY needed the car since I've had to be on campus (75mi away) every day. Been borrowing vehicles to do it, which costs more time, and being sick didn't help at all, only put me further behind.


I'm just happy the motor is fine mechanically. I can handle a TB job and some diagnostic work, but did not want to do back-to-back motor swaps.
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