vtjballeng

iTrader: (1)

I took a quick look and didn't see any cal data for that sensor. Crosses are: Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 12570798, 12621598, 12621649, 12621659, 1S10873, 2131569, PS629, PS710, 1S8818. Manual validation is probably simplest to determine the range.

gooflophaze

I had to go back and look cuz I was certain that carnut had used a racepak, but it looks like he used the AIM MXL Pro. Doesn't make much sense that racepak can't pick up the PID's if they're just doing OBDII reads.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Megasquirt it

If you have access to an oscilloscope you can scope the CAN lines and confirm data is being transferred. If it's there then racepak needs to fix it.

Chat support wasn't great with them, phone support was awesome.

acedeuce802

iTrader: (1)

If MS supported DI, I probably would've swapped an LFX instead of an LS.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Put a carb on it?

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for checking. Agreed, I want to be able to have complete confidence in the OP reading so the best approach is to test it personally and then manually calibrate the Racepak based on those results. I built a bench tester today, will get to play with it tomorrow.

Figured I'd take a little extra time to make something that could be useful in the future. NPT ports for all the common sensor sizes, two air valves so I can fill/bleed and monitor pressure without switching back and forth, portable enough that it can be placed in the engine bay so the sensor is operating on the vehicle wiring. Can be used to bench test temp sensors as well by standing it vertically, removing the end cap, filling with water and then heating the water and validating the temp with a thermometer.

vtjballeng

iTrader: (1)

LOL @ what seems to be systematic overkill. With that said, you should get a pretty good answer . Nice work!

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

Confirmed it's a 0-130 psi sensor. With the bench tester I was able to calibrate the Racepack very accurately to the specific scaling of this sensor. Dash reads OP perfectly now.

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

The final thing I needed to get to the Racepak: RPM. The ECM has no tach signal output. Autometer tach signal adapter part number 9117 was the solution.

Pic here shows how it's wired in, this was just temporary crimps to verify it worked before wiring it in properly...



The signal adapter gets wired in-line with the two main +12v supply wires that go to the coils, one wire to each bank. Follow the instructions included for an LS engine but your wire color is different. Pink/black is what you're looking for in the LFX harness. Start at the coils and follow the light gauge pink/black wires up-stream until you find where they split out from a thicker gauge pink/black. That's the wire to intercept. There are two of these wires, one for each bank. The autometer box outputs a lovely +12v square wave standard tach signal. The Racepak instantly reads it. Change the Racepak to V6 Even Fire (default seems to be V8) and voila.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

It does, you just need an external amplifier box from a Mazda or Toyota that takes standard fuel injector signals and turns it into high voltage and just comp your injection time by the circuit latency. I know a couple people have successfully done it now.

infinityedge

https://www.delphi.com/manufacturers...n/gas/ecm/idm2

They were used on 2013 Hyundai Genesis Coupe 3.9L engines, and possibly others. Used on ebay for $75-$100.

engineered2win

One thing you're oversimplifying is that you need to match the DI driver to the injectors. Piezo vs solenoid, injector driver voltage(40v, 65v, 72v,...), etc.

vtjballeng

iTrader: (1)

Nice. Was it relatively linear from 0.5v@0psi to 4.5v@130psi? Mind dropping your calibration data points?

Neat idea! Timing & voltages are critical so you'd need to do some testing & validation for sure, especially if there are any multi-fire provisions.

The enormity and wiring requirement of that box made me gag a little. Ok. A lot. There are some competing ones that are smaller iirc and there is some DIY level stuff that is small / cheap too. If it work, that is great. Be sure to get those joints strain relieved & weather protected. Glad you got it sorted.

nigelt

iTrader: (10)

I think the standard for workmanship on this car is such that that will be the case. Plus this:

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

Yep, after confirming it worked with the temp wiring in the pic I cut those crimps out and wired it properly. Tefzel /32 wire, crimp connections sealed with Raychem SCL, wiring covered with Deray V25. I agree on the size of the adapter box. I made it removable with a Deutsch DTP 4-pin connector (transitioning to DT and DTP connectors for everything now) so if there's a better (lighter) adapter out there I could easily switch to it...

vtjballeng

iTrader: (1)

You successfully relieved my panic attack. I missed the temporary part.

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

Tons of things going on, a lot of it is little details. Need a small bracket here or a tweak of something there and before you know it many hours have disappeared.

Some of the big stuff...

The Getrag diff was not operating like an limited slip unit. At first we chalked it up to the fluid and additive still needing to get cycled around better since it hadn't driven around much, but after a lot of figure 8's in the parking lot and still no improvement I started digging. GM superseded part numbers so when you call your GM contact to find out if the PN on your diff is for an LSD, they might know that number was superseded by a different number or they miiiiight tell you that's not a number that comes up in their system and have no idea. Eventually we got it nailed down and it turns out the salvage yard that advertised this diff as an LSD unit got it wrong. That was over a year ago so nothing to do now but buy another one.

As for those part numbers...

3.42 NOT LSD:
15793753 - superseded now by 25873499
3.42 LSD:
15793754 - superseded now by 25873500

New diff arrived, correct original PN on it. That diff now lives in the car.



Lots of little bits here and there to get bodywork on and working. Then went on to hood venting:



Hood is cut now, finished pics once louvers are back from powdercoating

New fence on the splitter to seal behind the lower edge of the bumper skin:



Plugged all the now-unused holes in the bumper skin that used to feed the oil cooler and front brake ducts. This pic reminds me, still need to relocate that "tow" decal to the hood:



Went to reinstall the fire extinguisher, discovered the new frame rails blocked the holes the extinguisher bracket had used. Made a new bracket with wider mounting points that tucks the extinguisher up as much as possible under the front edge of the seat:



Tires arrived and mounted on 15x10 Tungsten 6ULs. This is the 245 Rival S 1.5. Tire tech evolves crazy fast, even from just a couple years ago... back when I was running street tires to fit into a certain class for Miata Challenge I was on the original RS3... then the original Rival came out and it was better because you could actually use the brakes! Now for RLTA and GTA my class requires 100tw or greater, but these "Super200's" are faster than the 100tw options. I'm betting this combo here is easily 2 seconds faster than the old worn out 225 NT01s on 15x9 that I ran at Superlap in 2014.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

are those the 245 rivals?

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Says "ooodrich" on the sidewall.

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

Yup. 245/40/15 "Rival S 1.5" on 15x10