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Old 07-06-2011, 10:29 AM   #81
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unplugging the TPS wont get you into flood clear mode unless you calibrate the MS in such a manner.
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:34 AM   #82
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unplugging the TPS wont get you into flood clear mode unless you calibrate the MS in such a manner.
That's what I was trying to say... the TPS is used to get you into flood clear mode. Sorry that was a little ambiguous.
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:29 PM   #83
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Do you have the fuel lines hooked up properly? i have done this before and sounds exactly like the symptoms your describing.... cranking and no fire.

Try the starter fluid **** and see if it works.
I am getting to the point where I am considering trying this.

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where are you measuring fuel pressure? you need to put the gauge on the feed before the rail.
I am measuring the pressure off the fpr body in the opening next to the fuel inlet.

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Don't unplug the TPS during cranking, that's what'll get you into flood-clear mode and shut off your fuel. Unless I'm missing something...
mapdot

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You could put plugs in the coils and visually verify they're firing in the right order with a nice bright spark.
I am also thinking of doing this, and disconnecting the amphenol to verify the signal is being sent to the injectors to fire.

Here is how the fuel system is set up:
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:30 PM   #84
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You can see the fpr better in this one:

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Old 07-06-2011, 01:46 PM   #85
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check your "from tank" and "To tank" connections to see if its truely the correct ones if you hear your pump running.

you should be able to hear it with the engine off.
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:52 PM   #86
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I swapped them around once to make sure I didn't do it backwards. It is supposed to be the short line (front) is the return and the longer line (rear one) is the supply. Is my research faltered? I would certainly feel like a dip if it was and that was the source of my woes.

Also the fuel pump comes on loud and clear (it is a walbro so kinda hard to mistake if it is coming on or not).
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:59 PM   #87
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the return is closet to the radiator. should have a white dot on it.
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Old 07-06-2011, 02:53 PM   #88
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That's how I have it set up. Thanks for the verification mang.
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Old 07-06-2011, 09:42 PM   #89
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HOLY MUTHERFUCKING COCKSUCKING SHITLICKING ASSHAT! I HAVE FUEL PRESSURE!

First I pulled the line that feeds the fpr off, attached an 8' long line to the fuel rail outlet, plugged the fpr inlet line, and turned the key to on to verify the pump was actually flowing.

Then I got gas on the paint and almost immediately melted the clearcoat off

That prompted me to make an impromptu murder bathtub out of dropcloth (plastic see through ****)

The turn of the key produced a lovely golden shower into the gas can

Then I decided to see if the system would pressurize, verify it was pressurizing, and make sure the pressure gauge on the fpr worked so I screwed it into the end of the line that was going into the gas can (while trying to keep the fuel up towards the gauge/air out of the line)

The turn of the key again made a much different sound, I could hear the pump building pressure QUICKLY and the gauge shot to 40psi almost immediately. Turned the key off and it held the pressure for a minute or two, then it worked its way down to 32psi

So I am going to go with my problem was/is fuel pressure (lackthereof). Now I need to deduce if it is the fpr or something else...although I can't reason what it could be. The FPR is new and was recommended by brain and viperormiata is using his old one without problems. Anybody know what I coulda messed up on/in it? I took all the fittings out and nothing looks fucked so I am at a loss. I am going to go play with it to see if I can render it useful.

Lastly I got a sweet golden mist when I pulled the gauge off, luckally I was wearing eye protection for this one
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Old 07-06-2011, 09:46 PM   #90
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Yeah I used that same unit, no issues.

was the vacuum line attached to the top of it? the top screw tightened down at all?


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Old 07-06-2011, 09:47 PM   #91
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I didn't read the whole thread, but if the engine isn't started yet (and if you haven't already tried this), flip your plug wires around such that the relative positions of the 1-4 and 2-3 pairs are swapped from one side of the coil to the other.

About half the time that a new install fails to so much as give a whimper of combustion, despite having both spark and fuel, it's because of a reversal of the two ignition channels.
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:13 PM   #92
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^^^ never thought of that. Nice call
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:30 PM   #93
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Yeah I used that same unit, no issues. Was the vacuum line attached to the top of it? the top screw tightened down at all?
Vac was attached to the top and I put the adjuster through the full range. I then took apart my Aeromotive for comparison and there is a plate in the top of the Aeromotive (on top of the spring) that compresses the spring against the diaphram the more you adjust it; the ebay one doesn't have a plate. So it has a nipple on the end that goes down the middle of the spring but does not interact with anything. What a piece, I also noticed there is a different etch on my ebay fpr's body so I am going to say whatever company it is stopped qc the one you got yours from.

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I didn't read the whole thread, but if the engine isn't started yet (and if you haven't already tried this), flip your plug wires around such that the relative positions of the 1-4 and 2-3 pairs are swapped from one side of the coil to the other.

About half the time that a new install fails to so much as give a whimper of combustion, despite having both spark and fuel, it's because of a reversal of the two ignition channels.
I'm on cops, the only way I could have messed that up is solder the wires swippy swapped in the amphenol. If I didn't have cops I would have never thought to try that.
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Old 07-06-2011, 11:29 PM   #94
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Hooked up the 90 fpr on the dual feed rail, cranked, and got nothing. It is pressurizing now, I can hear it...makes a lot of hissing noise in the vicinity of the fpr. Here is the log. I actually got the camera out because I was sure this was "it"
Attached Files
File Type: xls now with fuelpump.xls (144.7 KB, 52 views)
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Old 07-06-2011, 11:52 PM   #95
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Since i was working off the idea that you were getting to much fuel and now we know that wasnt the case try your old MSQ.

OR spray some starting fluid in and see if it fires up.

Since your %100 sure youve got spark, some starter fluid will tell us if fuel is the issue or if you need to look somewhere else.
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Old 07-07-2011, 12:04 AM   #96
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I'll do that tomorrow, I'm callin it a night. I am not sure if that'll prove fruitful though because I still didn't get any kind of sputter or backfire. Still sounds like it is missing one of the big 3. Also I pulled a plug and it looked pretty much the same as they looked before I identified the fuel pressure regulator was bad. I am thinking maybe the hp suel pump killed my 21yr old fpr...

Tomorrow I am going to be checking the plugs for spark again and getting everything to use the Aeromotive.
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Old 07-07-2011, 12:06 AM   #97
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well if you grab some starter fluid and it doesnt even sputter with that then you know %100 sure that you need to look at your cams or ignition.
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Old 07-07-2011, 12:15 AM   #98
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Yeah, now that I have found the fuel problem that's the next thing to try.
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Old 07-07-2011, 12:17 AM   #99
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how much of this set up is new since the last time the car ran ?
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Old 07-07-2011, 12:27 AM   #100
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Everything except: MS, the block, the oil pan, the crank, the coil packs, and the wiring harness kinda (was stripped down and cut for amphenol installation). O yeah, the chassis, hard lines, intercooler, piping, diverter, the cts, the ait sensor, and exhaust manifold are not new also.
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