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just wow. Beautiful work. Props.
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Here is a home made efr going on my project car, a 99 w PS and AC slow progress one hour here and there kind of pace
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps46612bdd.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psedce623f.jpg http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...psb68e7dee.jpg |
That looks great. I'm thinking something similar. How are you going to route the intercooler? Looks tight.
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Don't shoot me but i am going water to air IC, a similar setup that i used on my M45 1.6 w AC and PS if it can keep intake charge cool on that 1.6 @ 8k it will do just fine on this much more efficient turbo setup.
I moved tha AC condencer 2" fwd and installed the oem radiator w u channel caps in its place for cooling the water and going w a koyo and sumitomo fans. http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...ps997912b3.jpg Attachment 185068 |
Use what you already have, I understand. You can always change later. Do you happen to have a jig for the manifold? Didn't you have a cad file with the flange?
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I made a crude fixture with a head and turbo flange that positions each at the correct location relative to each other and then bolted the actual manifold flanges to it and build it from there, i would use 1-1/4 sch 40 but weld fittings insread of the 1-1/2 i used if i was to do it again, it will make the manifold more compact for a better fit and keep higher exhaust velocity most likley improoving spool; i am considering buildimg another one just for those reasons.
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Originally Posted by HHammerly
(Post 1067255)
I made a crude fixture with a head and turbo flange that positions each at the correct location relative to each other and then bolted the actual manifold flanges to it and build it from there, i would use 1-1/4 sch 40 but weld fittings insread of the 1-1/2 i used if i was to do it again, it will make the manifold more compact for a better fit and keep higher exhaust velocity most likley improoving spool; i am considering buildimg another one just for those reasons.
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I don't have SW and have been asking my boss to let me purchase a seat, for the time being i purchased Inventor LT suite on my own so i can draw parts and get by for the time being, one great trick i started using is a line laser from a small bench top drill that i use for marking the parts before cutting them, that saved a lot of fitting and sanding.
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Start of a top mount BP turbo manifold for a CRAZY NB.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5504/1...1629b4ba_c.jpg 4-1 TiAL Vband Collector by HellaFab, on Flickr |
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This is the result of working in a shop where you're not the only welder.
Attachment 185045 I didn't have enough time to finish the other night, i come in today to find it "finished". I think it's pretty clear where i left off. |
Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 1083834)
This is the result of working in a shop where you're not the only welder.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c9...2013172112.jpg I didn't have enough time to finish the other night, i come in today to find it "finished". I think it's pretty clear where i left off. |
Implying I used a spool gun?
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Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 1083914)
Implying I used a spool gun?
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1083920)
I was making the ol' swicharoo joke.
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Nothing exciting, just welded up a rocker box for my roll cage down bars to tie into instead of floor plates. POS Matco MIG welder and .030" wire.
(Note: Looks like SS plate, but is just cold rolled strip) Attachment 185044 |
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That' looks really tidy Dan, very nice work.
Looks like you could almost get the OEM heatshield over the top for an ultra stealth install. |
Thanks, thats the idea, we will see how we go :)
Dann |
or a heatsheild from a Nissan sr20 manifold would likely fit even better, being that the manifolds are that general shape.
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Got the driver's door bars bent and notched. Royal PITA since the pillar bars fit so tight. Went with the FIA style X bar, bottom of the X comes out high in the back since the main hoop sits on the crossmember behind the driver's area.
That bottom bar that rides along the rocker serves no real purpose other than to meet the USAC requirement for the Pike's Peak Unlimited class which requires three driver's side bars instead of two (which nobody ever does, their tech is appalling). Since it's there, I'm going to tie into the bottom of the X to brace it for shits and giggles. Attachment 185043 |
I like the idea of having the 3rd bar. I added it in mine on both side. I personally think the factory rockers are way too weak!
Looks good. You gonna run it up pikes with the SBC as well? Is it carb or FI? |
Originally Posted by bcrx7
(Post 1085060)
I like the idea of having the 3rd bar. I added it in mine on both side. I personally think the factory rockers are way too weak!
Looks good. You gonna run it up pikes with the SBC as well? Is it carb or FI? Motor is fuel injected using the Holley HP setup. Planning on running this motor naturally aspirated for a while. Will likely step up to either a bigger N/A setup in 2015, or look at an S480-based turbo setup. With the tracks I run at, the N/A setup alone would already be a lot to handle. |
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This is the coolest thing I've built. Turned a Formula Continental (Van Diemen) into a Formula 1000 with a GSXR 1000 dry sump motor. Also involved in writing the rules and creating the class in SCCA...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...0/P1030033.jpg Attachment 185033 Attachment 185034 Attachment 185035 Attachment 185036 Attachment 185037 Attachment 185038 Attachment 185039 Attachment 185040 Attachment 185041 Attachment 185042 |
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That's unbelievable cool. Looks like a blast. Any vids?
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This was prior to the silver paint job... |
This Definitely isnt worthy of being put in here, but i found it kindof funny, and figured i would share.
I drove out to Mid-Missouri to visit family last week. It was about an 800 mile drive. Somewhere in indiana (Greenfield??) on I-70, i noticed smoke coming from under the hood. I pulled over, and popped it, and noticed some oil was burning around the banjo/bolt on top of the turbo. I removed the bolt, and looked at the washers, they were Marred up. I didnt replace them as i should have when i replaced the feed line. Anywho, i had some in my trunk... i carry everything in my trunk. lol I replaced them, and as i went to tighten the banjo bolt back in, it never got tight, or even snug... just spun... i pull off the socket, and found that the bolt had snapped. http://i41.tinypic.com/2n99n37.jpg So, now im on the hunt. I walked up the off ramp, and saw some businesses including Advance Auto, Vato Zone, and The Home Depot. I went to the Two Auto stores... Neither of them had the M10 x 1.25 Bolt that i needed, and NEITHER of them could even get one. Im 400 miles from home, and 400 miles from my destination. I dont have time to wait. I went to The Home Depot, as they usually have a decent selection of nuts and bolts, and a plumbing section. Absolutely nothing, and they cant get it. And, its so close to the holidays, there is no way i can get anything in a reasonable amount of time. So, i buy a few regular m10x1.25 bolts just in case i luck out and find a drill press. I look around, nobody has a press, and everything is closed. I Went BACK to the home depot, and asked them if they had a way to drill a bolt for me. Obviously their answer was no... But they also went ahead and told me that you cant drill hardened steel.... (since when?!?) So, i asked where the drills were... I bought a Cheap Ryobi, and about 6 titanium bits in the diameter i needed, and then said "watch me" Took my happy ass back across the street to Advanced auto (they couldnt get it, but they WERE very helpful initially, even called around to a bunch of places for me.) they were already locking up, but i knocked, and knowing my situation, they let me in. I asked if i could use their power, and they said "Definitely!" and they even let me use their bench vise. So i started going to town http://i39.tinypic.com/2ut59bm.jpg http://i39.tinypic.com/1fi93d.jpg http://i43.tinypic.com/309n9jm.jpg http://i44.tinypic.com/1zmdrx3.jpg So, i did it, first try... i know its not the best material to use, but it got me un-stuck, and i made it home. Already ordered a new bolt, so once that gets here, ill be golden. The bolt, even though it is threaded all the way up, sealed perfectly fine with the new crush washers. |
Holy fuck that is clean
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Props Supercooper. Not every bit of good fabrication is planned. :party:
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Originally Posted by mr_hyde
(Post 1086194)
Props Supercooper. Not every bit of good fabrication is planned. :party:
i knew i should have replaced that banjo bolt when i did the line.. Thats what i get for cutting corners. Lmao Made my 14 hour drive turn into a 17 hour drive. haha Only took a little under an hour to make the bolt (because i drilled slow as hell so as not to burn up the bit) But it took a little over 2 hours to figure out what i was gonna do so i wouldnt be stranded. lol And to top it off.... i HATE Indiana... lmao |
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1086164)
Getting tuned this week. Mod list. MSM clutch Haltech PS1000 ECU RX8 injectors EBC via TPS via ECU GT2560r Tubular manifold Full sized intercooler 10mm inconel studs and locking hardware Separated gases downpipe (2.25 and 1.5") with separating bridge inside flange 3" 100 cell bullet cat Flex and brace Turbosmart kompact 34mm BOV recirculated 2.5" tailpipe with small straight through muffler. Power goal 250whp for weekend use. Dann why msm clutch when it will be on thin ice past 200tq? why the weird length downpipe? why not traditional style hotside routing? that ac line is way way too close to the turbine and needs way more than heat tape to stay unbaked imo |
Looks great, you guys are very luky to have all that room with the left hand drive cars! Nice work, hope that it runs as good as it looks!!!
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The car was never meant to be turbo, I told him he would end up being disappointed with in n/a with bolt ons, and he was. The MSM clutch was a very good choice for a nice quick n/a car..
The downpipe joins with the catback, the n/a exhaust was fully custom apart from RB headers, and thats just where that flange happened to be. I didn't build it, it retains the 2.5" section behind the cat as you can see looking at the downpipe. Its so hard to fit a solid 2" pipe through all of the AC and PS mess, so I just built an MSM style setup in 2". Yes the AC line will get a hard time on the track, its not finished it needs a little bit more work, like an airbox. Dann |
Love that Dann, very nicely built and very very clean!
Do you mind me asking how much that setup would cost? |
Dan, your stuff looks fantastic.
If I come to visit you will you teach me how to weld like that? :) Supercooper, great skills and quick thinking! I want to be in your basement during the Zombie apocalypse |
I was wondering something that someone here may be able to help me with.
On an exhaust, can you couple titanium with stainless or would you have to use a fully titanium exhaust? The reason that I ask, I have found a plethora or used titanium motorcycle mufflers and I have a line on some cheaper tubing but I cannot find flex pipes, couplers, or anything else I may need in ti. Oh, I should also mention that I cannot weld worth jack shit and I have never welded ti so I would have to have that done by a pro. Let me know what you think. And this may not be the right place for this, I am just hoping that it is. |
I dont believe you can weld stainless to Ti, you'd be better off mating the two together with slip connectors.
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Originally Posted by Swanky
(Post 1091017)
I was wondering something that someone here may be able to help me with.
On an exhaust, can you couple titanium with stainless or would you have to use a fully titanium exhaust? The reason that I ask, I have found a plethora or used titanium motorcycle mufflers and I have a line on some cheaper tubing but I cannot find flex pipes, couplers, or anything else I may need in ti. Oh, I should also mention that I cannot weld worth jack shit and I have never welded ti so I would have to have that done by a pro. Let me know what you think. And this may not be the right place for this, I am just hoping that it is. So, no matter how cheap you can get the mufflers and some other tubing, it's still going to be expensive. Good luck, let us know how it turns out |
A synonym for oxidized rapidly is burns, like fire.
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Originally Posted by sturovo
(Post 1090476)
Dan, your stuff looks fantastic.
If I come to visit you will you teach me how to weld like that? :) Supercooper, great skills and quick thinking! I want to be in your basement during the Zombie apocalypse I have the full Zombie Ka-Bar collection, a Barnett Zombie crossbow, about 20 gas masks, Full Chemical suits including boots and hoods, MRE's, Survival gear, Guns out the ass... even Hornady Z-Max ammo for most of them.... lmao If it happens, you are more than welcome to join my colony.... as long as you dont have any bite marks... hahaha And Damn Dann.... that is some crazy good fab work... looks better than any Factory set up ive ever seen... If i ever end up down under, im gonna have to pay you for something like that... haha |
For the titanium muffler, use stainless, then flare thr tube for a slip fit with the muffler like a bike has.
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Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1091260)
For the titanium muffler, use stainless, then flare thr tube for a slip fit with the muffler like a bike has.
I know that you cannot weld two kinds of metal together without asking for problems but can titanium touch steel without oxidizing? I know that if steel and aluminum have prolonged contact, they oxidize. I heard that pro bike guys use thinly sliced cork as a gasket, anyone know this to be true? |
Over a long enough time span, it will oxidize.
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Originally Posted by Swanky
(Post 1091370)
I know that you cannot weld two kinds of metal together without asking for problems but can titanium touch steel without oxidizing? I know that if steel and aluminum have prolonged contact, they oxidize. I heard that pro bike guys use thinly sliced cork as a gasket, anyone know this to be true?
So, unless you put a bunch of fresh scratches on the surface of the mating areas, lather with salt water, and hook up a battery to each side, you are unlikely to ever have problems with galvanic corrosion between Stainless and Titanium. Even if you were to do that, the rest of the car would likely corrode away first. The biggest perpetrators in galvanic corossion are Aluminum and Magnesium, which are much more Anodic than low alloy steel, titanium, and stainless. Any sort of non-metallic gasket should help the situation, anything non-conductive that can break up a galvanic cell will be beneficial. Long story short - Ti in contact with Stainless will be fine |
Some recent pics from all sorts of jobs.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...83366880_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...20608507_n.png https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...53073236_n.jpg Guess what this is off..? https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...65778361_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...84441898_n.jpg Dann |
Having fun with the acetone in that muffler?
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:D
And just out of shot an air hose :P |
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Most of what i make is not car related and i have a pretty shitty camera. Two reasons i don't usually post the BS i make at work. If i did, things would get boring pretty quick.
Some stuff, i'm proud of though. Built this big SOB over the last two weeks. Tag teamed it with stan the other fab guy. I must say, i'm pretty proud of myself with this one. Kept it within .125 across the entire thing. Which is pretty extraordinary considering a weld at one end could warp it enough to throw the other end pretty far off. Attachment 184967 Even painted in house. Did 15 of these. These ended up warping about .015" after i was done welding them. Handed them over to the machinist and somehow he scrapped them. So i'll probably be welding more. Plus they get some gussets on them(picture is 50% finished). These have to be within .010 and they get nickel plated, which i guess is .005 thick or something... So we have to account for that. Oh and the prints are in German. lol. Attachment 184968 |
Rotator?
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That's very possible. I do know they rotate. I'll try and get a picture after the machinist fixes his fuckup and it's further along.
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I meant are you using a rotator to do the welds? Its a very good way to get that warpage super low.
Dann |
Nope, i weld it in quarters. It's even better at keeping warping to a minimum.
Some things i use a rotater though. It's more of a pain in the ass to set up than it is to just work on welding without. I like the challenge. |
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iPod/iPhone + GPS Mount for Track Data
Little project that worked well. Simple setup consisting of an iPod Touch, a Dual XGPS150A and the CMS LapTimer Pro app. Built my own bracket to hold the iPod and GPS -- it bolts between my rear view mirror and windwhield header. It worked great. Some pics:
The end of the 1/8"x3" aluminum strap is drilled to match the mirror's mount. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1392003591 A couple of pictures of the finished aluminum strap. An iPod case will be riveted to one surface and the GPS will be tie-wrapped to the flat at the end. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1392003591 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1392003591 Installed. To finish, the strap is bent towards the windshield and then a furniture "Elevator Bolt" with a foam pad is placed against the windshield to triangulate. Adjust the nuts so that the assembly is spring-loaded against the windshield and the iPod is level and square for good G-readings. Simple and sturdy. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1392049834 How it looks from the driver's seat: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1392003591 Here's some video/data from last weekend: |
Wow, that's really cool. Wasn't aware apps like this had come this far.
You have an external gps unit? How's it connected? and where'd you get it? |
I used a Dual XGPS150A (5Hz data):
Universal Bluetooth GPS Receiver for Today Got it from Amazon for ~$85. Connects to the iPod/iPhone via Bluetooth. |
If you dont need iphone compatibility you can use the qstars and get 10ghz gps for the same money.
I need to make a mount like that. |
Reading the apps description, you have to program courses yourself? I guess that'd be good for event like AutoX.
How well does it record a course lay out? The mapping in you videos looks really good. |
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