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Ya, all in house. The flywheel is 94-97, the clutch is for a NC 6 speed 23 spline and the pressure plate is 94-97. All off the shelf items. The pilot bearing is also stock. Mazda just wanted this to work out.
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Originally Posted by Adamsm
(Post 990821)
Ya, all in house. The flywheel is 94-97, the clutch is for a NC 6 speed 23 spline and the pressure plate is 94-97. All off the shelf items. The pilot bearing is also stock. Mazda just wanted this to work out.
If you were to make another adapter plate, roughly how much do you think it would cost? |
It took me 2 full days to get the plate completed. Measuring, cutting, drilling, sanding .... The total material cost was around $200, that's the plate, the countersunk hardware and the dowel pins. Once I get the car on the road (hopefully in the next 2 weeks or so) i'll be able to see how well it works. I designed this one to use a 6-speed starter. If it works as planned i'll remove it and send it out to a have a number of plates cut out by water jet or lazer. Total price, I have no clue yet what I would sell them for.
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 990820)
One can only hope the clutch is not the one from the 3rd picture.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 987292)
I just took a TIG class at my local community college. It was 4 weeks long and we only welded with mild steel. The actual classes that teach more then that were regular semester long classes, but those have a 2 year wait on them. I honestly would not recommend the class unless it goes over more then just mild steel. I did get better at welding during it, but that is more because I spend tons of time practicing.
If you are interested in only building 1 manifold and thats it then I would suggest going to Abe and getting it done. If you want to actually be able to fabricate and build things in the future then I would say learn to weld. After you factor in costs of welder, and saws, and other tools your costs will far exceed the cost of just having a custom made. My class was 6:30-9:30 pm Tue / Thurs and was $160 total. I'm taking another one this same quarter next winter. Maybe MIG or more TIG. As I was a non-traditional student I could do whatever metal and thickness I wanted to so I did stainless, aluminum and thin mild steel as that's what I'll use it for at home. It's a nice time to take class as it is dark and cold after work and can't do anything else. |
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Nice job on the adapter. Whacha doing with the PPF?
BEGI's T5 swap makes more sense to me. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363630976 |
Originally Posted by Adamsm
(Post 990829)
It took me 2 full days to get the plate completed. Measuring, cutting, drilling, sanding .... The total material cost was around $200, that's the plate, the countersunk hardware and the dowel pins. Once I get the car on the road (hopefully in the next 2 weeks or so) i'll be able to see how well it works. I designed this one to use a 6-speed starter. If it works as planned i'll remove it and send it out to a have a number of plates cut out by water jet or lazer. Total price, I have no clue yet what I would sell them for.
Originally Posted by Stein
(Post 990837)
I just finished a TIG class at the local CC last week. It was the normal 10 week course that the regular students took. I learned more in that 10 weeks than I learned in the 20 years of being a self-taught hack. Definitely worth it.
My class was 6:30-9:30 pm Tue / Thurs and was $160 total. I'm taking another one this same quarter next winter. Maybe MIG or more TIG. As I was a non-traditional student I could do whatever metal and thickness I wanted to so I did stainless, aluminum and thin mild steel as that's what I'll use it for at home. It's a nice time to take class as it is dark and cold after work and can't do anything else. How were the TIG welders at the college? Did you have to scratch start the torches? For whatever reason I have so much trouble with scratch starting the torch and not contaminating it when working on t-joints. With my Lincoln at home where it autostarts I have no problems at all with it. |
We have Dynasty 350's with a water cooler where i go to school.
Usually they don't care what order you take the classes in. I mean, if you don't care about passing or failing. I can't say if they just let random people come in to the shop just to weld, but i can't see why not. IMO the projects they made us do taught me way more than if i was to just go into a booth and start buzzing stuff. Protip: If you ever flash yourself i found it best to hurry up, flip the mask down and start welding. That seems to "cure" it and stop it from hurting / being blind quickest and easiest. Not sure why, but it's better than other techniques i've tried. |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 990868)
How were the TIG welders at the college? Did you have to scratch start the torches? For whatever reason I have so much trouble with scratch starting the torch and not contaminating it when working on t-joints. With my Lincoln at home where it autostarts I have no problems at all with it.
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Some stuff we have been working on.
Sorry we have been so quite lately been busy In the shop. Customers Custom turbo kit. DoapFab manifold to downpipe. with BOV welded to the endtank. Welding the downpipe https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363705112 The furthest pipe is the dump tube, and the closer pipe is the Downpipe. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363705112 Along with back purging we also weld the inside of certain flanges to ensure reliably and quality. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363705112 Welding the Greddy RS Blow of valve to the Intercooler endtank https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363705112 You can see the Back door intercooler set up, using a proper Hump hose. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363705112 |
Not bad for your first turbo manifold.
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Looks good. I use much thinner filler wire...I may try thicker now ;)
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 991464)
Looks good. I use much thinner filler wire...I may try thicker now ;)
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I sometimes do inside the flanges, I sometime don't.
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That's a really warped down pipe flange.
And what's up with the adapter on a custom manifold? Why not flange the manifold for the correct turbo? |
The flange is not warped?!.... It is not fully bolted down. It would take alot of heat and carelessness to warp that Mild steel flange that bad. HAHA. We do our best to ensure a flat mating surface on ALL flanges we weld. However we are human, so we surface everything before it goes out.
The Kit is coming off and the car is being towed back home. This is the reasoning for the lack of hardware. we just put it on for one last picture. The customer wanted to Be able to switch to a T3 framed turbo when she is done with the internally gated setup. At that time we will also add the desired wastegate flange. |
If you do big enough welds with enough penetration to never break even after dozens of laps on a car making 400% more power than stock, the flanges warp unless they are bolted to at least 3 other flanges.
Also its not warped, the turbo and the adaptor arent exactly the same shape as the flange, which is common. Dann |
Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 990842)
Nice job on the adapter. Whacha doing with the PPF?
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PPF does more than support the rear of the trans.
It supports the battery cable to the starter.........and something else too I think. |
Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 992050)
PPF does more than support the rear of the trans.
It supports the battery cable to the starter.........and something else too I think. |
Yes, I removed or cut out the PPF. I don’t have any pictures at the moment but it looks similar to this.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329787307 Securing the battery cable to the upper portion of the tunnel was not difficult. |
The next project that I am considering is fabbing a trailer hitch for use with a bike rack.
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Originally Posted by Adamsm
(Post 992151)
Yes, I removed or cut out the PPF. I don’t have any pictures at the moment but it looks similar to this.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329787307 Securing the battery cable to the upper portion of the tunnel was not difficult. |
Originally Posted by Pen2_the_penguin
(Post 992413)
what's the benefit to this besides maybe shed a few pounds?
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ahhh okay, i just legitimately never have seen something like this before.
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Originally Posted by Pen2_the_penguin
(Post 992511)
ahhh okay, i just legitimately never have seen something like this before.
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2 Attachment(s)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363934427
Mazda IAC valve adapted to Honda intake manifold which is adapted to Mazda cylinder head |
wont that hose kink really bad when it gets exposed to engine heat in the future?
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Originally Posted by Pen2_the_penguin
(Post 992535)
wont that hose kink really bad when it gets exposed to engine heat in the future?
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I would expect that hose connection all the way to the right to leak.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 992548)
I would expect that hose connection all the way to the right to leak.
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Did you test it under vacuum? Those fittings seal pretty easy when there is moderate pressure on them, but high pressure and vacuum are what make marginal connections leak.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 992551)
Did you test it under vacuum? Those fittings seal pretty easy when there is moderate pressure on them, but high pressure and vacuum are what make marginal connections leak.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 992417)
That is from Turbotims car and he did it because he is not using a stock transmission. Adamsm is doing it because he is using a RX7 TII trans which also does not have a ppf mount point.
My PPF is minimally clearanced for the 3" driveshaft, attaches to the new transmission crossmember. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363954623 |
Originally Posted by muoto
(Post 992555)
For the millionth times, YES I’ve tested it with vacuum, boost, nuclear radiation, mars gravity, etc..
P.S. Will it survive a Tyranasaurus Rex attack? If not, it's under designed. |
If you haven't tested it in a hurricane then you haven't tested it.
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did you try the lava test? You know, for heat?
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Originally Posted by Enginerd
(Post 992581)
Sometimes you just gotta smack 'em to get 'em to shut up. They just gotta deal with it. :dealwithit:
P.S. Will it survive a Tyranasaurus Rex attack? If not, it's under designed. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363977372 "version 2.0, limited STFU edition" :giggle: |
That 'T Rex Approved' sticker looks like it's improperly applied. Better just throw out the whole manifold and start over.
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Lmfao well done!
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10 Attachment(s)
Some chassis bracing. I made the headlights as well. ...and shaved the bay. I guess there's quite a bit going on here.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363992273 Radiator supports that'll double as mounts for a splitter and under tray. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363992273 Rear diff mount. It's a Getrag differential from a Cadillac CTS. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363992273 Some more chassis bracing. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363992273 Pedal box with dual masters and balance bar. The supports are welded to the dash bar. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363992273 Steering wheel spacer, pieced together from an OEM steering wheel, 2.5" exhaust tubing, and a Sparco wheel hub. I'd like to take a hole saw to the tube since this thing is a bit overbuilt. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363992273 Exhaust system. I offset the X a bit to help even out the lengths of pipe prior to the X. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363992273 Hood pin mounts. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363992273 Interior chassis bracing. The goal here is to transmit loads from the suspension to the transmission tunnel, like they were from the factory when the gussets in the back of the engine bay were still in tact. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363992273 Another shot of the interior bracing, before I revised it. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363992273 Seeing as all of this has been done with a MIG setup that I acquired for $200, I really can't complain about the results. That said, my skills seem to have hit a plateau. I can make beautiful welds on thicker metal, like 1/8", but thinner material is a bit of a struggle. Somebody suggested trying a thinner wire, which is something that I still need to do. The fab work is mostly done for this project, but for future reference, which wire would you experienced people recommend for material 1/16" and thinner? It's a Craftsman welder, if that matters. |
Originally Posted by muoto
(Post 992555)
For the millionth times, YES I’ve tested it with vacuum, boost, nuclear radiation, mars gravity, etc..
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I've seen this on CR. Why on earth did you not weld in a cage? All this bracing would be rendered useless, the car would be stiffer (especially with forward mounts to the shock towers), and you'd still be able to shift. Decent fab work though, just seems a little misguided.
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Believe me, I thought about it. A requirement for this build is that the car remain streetable. I obviously have an extremely loose definition of streetable however a full cage pushes it past the tipping point since I wouldn't be comfortable driving a caged car without a helmet. Since a full cage isn't happening, I went about making the car as stiff as I reasonably could without one.
Part of my longer term plan is to make an aluminum plate that bolts beneath the trans tunnel to box it and add a few small elements to support that. In my head at least, that'll do wonders for torsional rigidity and nicely supplement what I've already done. Even if not cage-stiff at that point, it should be close. Either way, this car is as much of a design challenge as anything else. If something doesn't work quite right, I'll learn and move on. |
Are you running the MIG on an extension cord?
If so that can be part of the issue. Also great work man! |
Future setup is 2JZ in a RHD.......
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I think everyone has drawn/sketched a 2J in their life.
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Originally Posted by Pen2_the_penguin
(Post 992885)
I think everyone has drawn/sketched a 2J in their life.
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Might that rhd 2jz guy live in Florida? I think he's a friend of a friend.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by 573
(Post 992903)
Might that rhd 2jz guy live in Florida? I think he's a friend of a friend.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364049193 |
I'd be curious to see some detail of what's behind those clear turn signal / headlight lenses.
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Two bike hids, the second lense is actually just a dummie. Brackets, lexan lid, nothing special. And if you get pulled over for headlight height you could always say "what do you mean these headlights are aftermarket and too low? This car sits as I bought it sir." Lol
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364055630 |
Originally Posted by Adamsm
(Post 990814)
I decided to go ahead and make my own TII adapter plate. To anyone that wants to do this, remember to measure 10 times, then measure again. Then cut.
After an hour or so of cutting it looked like this: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363627652 All done, 2 jig saws later: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363627652 Now, after welding tranny mounts to the tunnel, everything fits as though it was meant to be that way: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363627652 Factory RX-7 transmission mount: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363627652 and with a mix-match of miata and rx-7 bits the shifter ends up in the stock location: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363627652 :) We just finished our adapter kit for this swap. We have 5 plates in stock, all CNC machined with hardware. https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...88635126_n.jpg |
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Well just got a crappy HF 90amp flux core welder and built a welding/shop table. I need to weld up my mount for my TII rear end but hope to wait till I can find a better welder used locally.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364259154 I was surprised that I was able to get a decent bead once I got used to the welder but look forward to having more adjust-ability. Any input on what I should look for in a mig welder hoping to spend around $400 or less. |
Take that table, and spin it 180*.
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Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 993657)
Take that table, and spin it 180*.
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Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 993657)
Take that table, and spin it 180*.
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I was planning on putting another piece of angle iron across the back at the same height to stiffen it up, but just forgot. I have used a much larger shop table with a piece welded at the same spot for years and never had bloody shins.
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Tables like that taught me to be weary of wearing shorts and wear good gloves while tig welding...
...I grounded my self by accident (hole in glove). It wasnt fun. |
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Turbo AW11.
[IMG]http://s22.postimg.org/4hrs26z6p /1735_141279826049378_374855895_n.jpg[/IMG] https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364292093 Pics are in the wrong order but it took so long to upload them period that Im not rearranging them. Dann |
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