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I see the 3" 90deg 304ss unpolished without straight sections at $34 each. But yeah, ideally the polished with legs would be used, those are $65 from mcmaster. Fail. :dunno:
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Ace stainless has the unpolished/no leg for $13.30. Short leg no polish, and no leg polish are $22.95. Hmmm....
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thats more along the line of my pricing.
still a bit high though |
Nothing super impressive but I thought I'd share. Modified my Maxim Works header to better accomidate my Rotrex charger (Yup, bring on the Supercharger hate! :fael:)
http://i0.wp.com/otcmaterial.com/wp-...ize=1000%2C563 http://i1.wp.com/otcmaterial.com/wp-...ize=1000%2C563 Then mated it to a 3" catback (essentially made everything from the secondary runners, back) Nice project to learn from and if I were to do it I'd do so many things differently :bowrofl: http://i0.wp.com/otcmaterial.com/wp-...ize=664%2C1000 |
Nice!
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 1005696)
Nice!
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Thanks guys,
I know this is mainly a picture thread but a bit of background info: The header steps from a 2.5" "downpipe" (After the secondaries) and goes into a transition to 3". Within that transition some of the 2.5" protrudes with the idea being similar to an anti-reversion chamber. Not sure if it makes a difference as I have no back-to-back data. |
3 Attachment(s)
This is why I hate the vibrant elbows.
Checkout the cross sectional wall thickness... My suppliers elbows are way thicker and have the same thickness the whole circumference. Attachment 185543 Little pipe welded up today... Attachment 185544 Weld closeup... Attachment 185545 |
7 Attachment(s)
Just made a couple exhaust hangers for a buddy, he wanted them to clamp on. I heated up the 304 rod with the oxy acetylene torch and hammered it flat on the anvil. We happened to have some 2.5" Al round stock in short sections kicking around so I hammered the bend into it around that.
Attachment 185536 Attachment 185537 And then today and I used all of this. Attachment 185538 And you know, just made some custom mufflers... out of aluminum. Attachment 185539 Yup, made those cores out of perf sheet did that a couple weeks ago. Attachment 185540 Attachment 185541 Attachment 185542 So remember how I complain about the Dynasty we have. Yeah I'm never going to use pure tungesten in that thing again. All those welds were done with thoriated, 1/16" with a #6 cup. 120Hz, some were done at the balance of 45% that I was using to try to make the pure tungsten work, the rest were done with 60%. And zero weld prep, we didn't have a clean stainless brush in the shop so I figured using the welder to break through the AlOx was better than getting steel all up in the weld. We were also out of acetone. |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1006011)
Just made a couple exhaust hangers for a buddy, he wanted them to clamp on. I heated up the 304 rod with the oxy acetylene torch and hammered it flat on the anvil. We happened to have some 2.5" Al round stock in short sections kicking around so I hammered the bend into it around that.
http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/q...426_204720.jpg http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/q...426_205810.jpg And then today and I used all of this. http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/q...427_183811.jpg And you know, just made some custom mufflers... out of aluminum. http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/q...427_183900.jpg Yup, made those cores out of perf sheet did that a couple weeks ago. http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/q...427_141825.jpg http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/q...427_183915.jpg http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/q...427_183919.jpg So remember how I complain about the Dynasty we have. Yeah I'm never going to use pure tungesten in that thing again. All those welds were done with thoriated, 1/16" with a #6 cup. 120Hz, some were done at the balance of 45% that I was using to try to make the pure tungsten work, the rest were done with 60%. And zero weld prep, we didn't have a clean stainless brush in the shop so I figured using the welder to break through the AlOx was better than getting steel all up in the weld. We were also out of acetone. |
I thought I was going pretty quick. That 12" long muffler took under 10 minutes to do the seam down the length. And thats I t how fast I did al the other welds unless I was struggling with gemoetry.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1006110)
I thought I was going pretty quick. That 12" long muffler took under 10 minutes to do the seam down the length. And thats I t how fast I did al the other welds unless I was struggling with gemoetry.
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Interesting. I'll have to try that when I have to weld these mufflers the exhaust.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1006124)
Interesting. I'll have to try that when I have to weld these mufflers the exhaust.
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That reminds me, I really need to figure out a decent muffler for the N/A track cars around here. They keep burning up their packing with their catless flamethrowers. Custom might be the way to go. What're you using for packing?
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1006199)
That reminds me, I really need to figure out a decent muffler for the N/A track cars around here. They keep burning up their packing with their catless flamethrowers. Custom might be the way to go. What're you using for packing?
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Originally Posted by Boost_addict
(Post 1006123)
Personally I'd say unless you're getting a bead per second you're not going fast enough. Look for the keyhole right before it blows into a hole, that's where you want to dip before it blows into a hole. If you're not getting a keyhole without waiting forever, turn your heat up. I personally don't like the way my welds look unless I blast it and move real fast. If I don't dip on time ill blow a hole in my part to give you an idea. It makes it come out very nice and fast though.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1006202)
Burns, which is surprisingly cheap.
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7 Attachment(s)
I delivered the civic project yesterday for a happy customer. Here are a few pics I managed to snap on my phone because the tow truck came early which i really wasnt expecting.
Attachment 185526 Attachment 185527 Attachment 185528 Attachment 185529 Attachment 185530 Attachment 185531 Attachment 185532 Coming up in a few weeks I will be doing some intercooler piping and an intake pipe for a turbo B16 CRX |
Coming together, got some time to do a little this morning before I had to go.
Muffler tucked RIGHT up and nicely centered. Note that this is still only tacked so the welds (mostly the heat colouration around them) look patchy, thats why. http://s17.postimg.org/4n4orpp3z/20130430_092121.jpg Not 110% happy with the tip so Im redoing from the muffler outlet back. I do like how you can JUST see the muffler if you kneel, it looks very OEM. http://s17.postimg.org/mtrkz6qfz/20130430_115759.jpg Whats this we have here? MSM owners will recognise this manifold and heatshield? http://s17.postimg.org/54zu7keov/20130430_125359.jpg http://s17.postimg.org/wpsnytw7z/20130430_125404.jpg http://s17.postimg.org/4usbo802n/20130430_125409.jpg BOO :twisted: http://s17.postimg.org/p0vtn3vq7/20130430_125430.jpg Off to the race ceramic coating shop tomorrow. Dann |
^
No hose clamps??? |
All that money on that hatch, and stock shitty pathetic rear brakes?
What's going to slow all the WHP down? |
Both silly questions.
Now a good one, what paint is that :P Dann |
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1007672)
Both silly questions.
Now a good one, what paint is that :P Dann |
No matter how much I don't want to I cannot help but like that valve cover.
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I like it. I think it's cool, and goes well with what's going on in the engine bay.
Plus i'm sure it would score me a ton of swag points on CR. |
I just wish he had all the purple parts done that way too.
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the valve cover plating im told was pretty pricey. a new coating job on a vc is ~$500.
The brakes are upgraded already. those are Integra rear discs in the back and i think he has those on the front too.... The rear brakes barely do any work on a civic. most people dont bother upgrading them. There isnt enough weight in the back of the car to overload those brakes before you start to lock them up from how I understand it. Not my car though... |
brakes off another honda isnt much of an upgrade...
Drilled and slotted with cermic pads. |
Question to schlammed and leafy.
guys how do you weld the those tight collectors to the rest of the manifold, what cups and techniques I always find it very frustrating trying to get the welder in there. Dann |
Not that i've ever had to do it. But when i'm challanged with a tight space, i turn the gas up, and pull the tungsten out.
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Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 1008089)
Not that i've ever had to do it. But when i'm challanged with a tight space, i turn the gas up, and pull the tungsten out.
Optimally I would have used a gas lens and the correct size cup for it with the really short cap. |
there is no design options?
or an order you weld in specifically, i always struggle for ages doing it, is this just how everyone in the trade does it? Some collectors are so short and with such a shallow angle i struggle to see you you can get a nice weld especially on something thin walled like headers. Dann |
I use a #6 cup with the argon flow pretty high and a long stickout.
You have to be steady or you will hit the sides. sharpen the 1/16 tungsten to a fine point. Running a nice fat bead helps too. |
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1008105)
there is no design options?
or an order you weld in specifically, i always struggle for ages doing it, is this just how everyone in the trade does it? Some collectors are so short and with such a shallow angle i struggle to see you you can get a nice weld especially on something thin walled like headers. Dann If i was going to do it again, I would have not bought a fully welded collector but one that was just tacked or one that was only pre-cut. I'd tack up the whole manifold, then cut the tacks somewhere in the middle of the runners that made it easy to finish weld at the flange. Then cut the tacks on the collector, finish weld around where the runners meet the collector, then weld up the collector. Make sure the runners still all line up them finish weld the runners on the flange and collector sides, then mate them back up. |
This is a good collector, but how do you weld that with 4 pipes on the ends?
http://jdlautodesign.net/wp-content/...ollector_2.jpg |
From the inside?
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How do you possibly fit the torch inside and do a nice weld? And it wont look nice on the outside at all.
there MUST be an answer the pros know that I just dont. |
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1008115)
This is a good collector, but how do you weld that with 4 pipes on the ends?
I guess...? I couldn't figure it out, so after making my pretty collectors and welding 2 of the 3 pipes onto the collector, I had to cut the collector in half so I could fit my fat gas lens inside and weld along the inner surface of the 3rd pipe. Suck. http://www.absurdflow.com/miata/klde/collector1.jpg http://www.absurdflow.com/miata/klde/header3.jpg |
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1008123)
How do you possibly fit the torch inside and do a nice weld? And it wont look nice on the outside at all.
there MUST be an answer the pros know that I just dont. |
Dam... Ive done enough of these now and i dont have any training in welding or anything and i hoped I could find someone who knew.
I want to just email a few companies who are pro but in other countries and asking if they have time to give me pics to show how. Its the only thing i havnt really figured out how to do nicely. Dann |
Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 1008132)
Build a metal box that's open on top, place part inside, remove the collect/insulator thing from your torch, fill the box with argon, profit?
Dann |
Charge more.
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gas lens will allow for up to 3/4" electrode stickout.
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Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 1008150)
Charge more.
But i want all the fab work i can get for experience. Also i dont know how much my work is worth i dont want to scare people away. how much flow for 3/4 inch? Dann |
Originally Posted by Stein
(Post 1008165)
gas lens will allow for up to 3/4" electrode stickout.
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o.0
an inch? I never go more than maybe 1/4.. am I doing it wrong? Dann |
I normally never go more than the diameter to 1.5* the diameter of the tungsten out. But sometimes trying to fit into really tight spots you gotta do what you gotta do, and a weld with marginal shielding gas is going to seal better and be stronger than no weld at all.
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My grind is usually 1/4" long. Then my tungsten sticks out about 3/8". #7 cup is normal.
I dunno... Maybe i'm doing it wrong. |
Make your collectors shorter so that there isnt as much pipe on the end your welding.
That way you dont need as much tungsten stickout |
1 Attachment(s)
I'm going to go with theres multiple ways of doing things. I was taught by someone who went by the 1-2 times the diameter of the tungsten should be out of the cup, if you need to do more than that, turn the gas flow up.
But if they're too short you run into a worse problem. Mine were really short, welding the pipe to the collector was a bit of a bear once there was more than one runner on it. You can see how tight the merge was on this side. Attachment 185504 And no I'm not terribly happy with my weld quality on this, I've done much better, I was experimenting with ceriated tungsten and trying to weld sch40 with on 110v. |
Took this from the Toxicfab facebook page.
See how short his collector is? makes it wasy easier to weld between the pipes. https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...71842083_o.jpg |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1008199)
And no I'm not terribly happy with my weld quality on this, I've done much better, I was experimenting with ceriated tungsten and trying to weld sch40 with on 110v.
But quit trying "different" fancy shit. Just learn the basics first man. I'm not really sure where to start with this. If you were running on 110, you were using allofit because that is REALLY hot. I'm not even sure where to point you, because i feel there is so much to fix. I think i told you this before, quit flat pedaling it. Get yourself some flat stock, and see how small of a bead you can make. Turn that thing way down and hardly made a bead. Get your gap super super close too. |
sorry I honestly cannot follow how the short collector makes it easier. how sorry?
Dann |
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 1008210)
Probably going to come off wrong.
But quit trying "different" fancy shit. Just learn the basics first man. I'm not really sure where to start with this. If you were running on 110, you were using allofit because that is REALLY hot. I'm not even sure where to point you, because i feel there is so much to fix. I think i told you this before, quit flat pedaling it. Get yourself some flat stock, and see how small of a bead you can make. Turn that thing way down and hardly made a bead. Get your gap super super close too. Attachment 185502 I've gotten a lot better since that manifold. Attachment 185503 |
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1008214)
sorry I honestly cannot follow how the short collector makes it easier. how sorry?
Dann basically instead of having a 5 degree window that your cup can fit into you have a 60 degree window. Im not saying to make it a short one with a larger angle, just less length after they actually merge. Try it and you will see. |
Shortnening the collector that far ruins the scavenging properties.
I always assumed you would have to weld the spike portion from the inside of the collector with a long gas lens. You could use a cheap sand blasting cabinet as a gas chamber and evacuate the whole thing with argon, than a gas lens would be unnecessary. |
Couldnt you just pump argon inside the pipe? I know its used as a shield but to build a sealed box for welding it is a bit silly; I already saw someone said just blast argon, and stick the tungsten rod out a bit far, but doesnt that also make the weld a bit weaker in penetration?
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21 Attachment(s)
Here's how I make collectors. Keep in mind, I cut out the triangle points and weld them to the header tubes without the collector, then weld on the collector.... That way I don't have to do any welding on the inside.
I make my bend by cutting off the starting end of a u bend. Yes they're not perfectly symmetrical on the front and back. Transfer dye for scribing a line Attachment 185481 Device for scribing a line 45* off 90*. Scribed in 2 positions, 90* apart. Attachment 185482 Attachment 185483 Both lines scribed Attachment 185484 Then cut them all with a bit extra Attachment 185485 As you can see I have plenty to finish these headers (big block Chevy) Attachment 185486 Made the fixture for the 14" abrasive saw, the rear tightening "pin" has a bolt you tighten to get the back snug. Attachment 185487 Attachment 185488 Attachment 185489 Then you end up with these, rough and in need of deburing. Attachment 185490 Debured. Attachment 185491 I tack one half at a time Attachment 185492 Then I am done, here is a before, and after of trimming material. I do a rough cut with the cutoff wheel, then pass it on the belt sander. Attachment 185493 Ooo sexy. Attachment 185494 Attachment 185495 Then it gets flared out at the end Attachment 185496 Video of flaring on hydraulic press, with anti size as a lube. Just so it's said I was being sarcastic when I said "what do I do now?" http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...9B1E93FA5B.mp4 Made a tapered cone, this is the fixture for back purging. Lol a bulkhead worked nicely for the bung to fit. Attachment 185497 All done! Attachment 185498 Attachment 185499 Attachment 185500 And here's a nice weld I wanted to show off. Attachment 185501 |
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