No, the course mapping is done automatically by the app as you drive. It's really simple to use. Turn it on while sitting in the grid -- once you exceed 15mph is starts recording/mapping -- once you stop it stops as well. Pretty much hands-free.

There's also Harry's Laptimer, TrackAddict laptimer + probably numerous others I don't even know about. The apps are inexpensive enough I'll probably try several before deciding which I like best. I've only used the CMS app so far.

Electric oil primer pump!

http://www.absurdflow.com/miata/klde/primerpump1.jpg

http://www.absurdflow.com/miata/klde/primerpump6.jpg

http://www.absurdflow.com/miata/klde/primerpump8.jpg

Any plans on selling?

If it works and if there's interest, I would look into making a few more housings. But it would cost more than other more compact options out there. You can find remote turbo oil scavenge spur gear pumps on ebay for $130.

My pump next to the ebay scavenge pump and a BMW M5 (V10) oil transfer pump for the oil pan, also a tiny Gerotor pump, kinda like some fuel pumps.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1392903815

What kind of pressure and flow are those BMW pumps capable of?

If you could find them for reasonable money they might be really useful for rear end and transmission coolers, as well as your pre-oiler.

I do not know sorry.

Last few weeks or thread relevant work thats interesting, did some exhausts and another basic NA8 turbo setup/install/tune and another NA6 turbo setup which got posted out for owner install, same shit different week.


Bryans NB8C, brand new Volvo T5 turbo, 2.5" downpipe and exhaust, long runner low mount, Works Engineering carbon intake, kept the AFM for OEM looks, Full sized front mount, RX8 injectors, 180rwhp on 7.3PSI. Starting at low boost till he gets used to it.

http://s15.postimg.org/aqtduarsr/Win..._Wallpaper.jpg

http://s30.postimg.org/m38v0nnq9/GOPR0075.jpg

http://s30.postimg.org/4jga4ytwh/GOPR0082_1.jpg

http://s30.postimg.org/6zmowk1cx/GOPR0087.jpg

http://s27.postimg.org/s26iww5qb/20140307_213211.jpg


Local guys S13, with extend bridge ported 13b and a GT42r. We did the downpipe, the side pipe, the hotside cooler pipe and turbo cut/weld/port job, the overflow tank and a few other bits.

http://s27.postimg.org/omj012xvn/165...74477633_o.jpg

http://s27.postimg.org/mgop6kuf7/160...34990336_o.jpg

http://s27.postimg.org/ovgkr0ao3/155...64304563_o.jpg

http://s27.postimg.org/kauec2qyr/189...99444465_o.jpg

Some of the fab for the posted NA6 kit, just a separated gases downpipe to suit a side mount log. I've done a few like this recently and Im happy with this design.

http://s16.postimg.org/3zj38z8z9/GOPR0118.jpg

http://s16.postimg.org/y0950cj79/GOPR0121.jpg

http://s16.postimg.org/jz1qsj511/GOPR0122.jpg


This maxed the RX8's at 235 btw.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...29542100_n.jpg

Dann

Love the airbox cover!

Just fusion welded.

This is a good exercise for controlling heat. I pulled two that were pretty different. Should have set my panel a little more accurate, but i was in a crunch.
Attachment 184945


Other than the heat marks, you can't even tell they're welded. :)

Should have put a scale down, these are about 1.8" long.

What are they?

The blueprints called them a "bellcrank".

They are the rotation point that pulls pins in and out of alignment holes on seats so it can lock into place on the rails.

Attachment 184940

Do you even clamp bro?
Attachment 184941

Attachment 184942

Another tight tolerance weldment.
Still gotta put the rollers on it...

Not car related, but hell, I fabricated it.
After getting some insane quotes for a short section of fence, I said "fuck it, I'll learn to weld."
I grabbed a Lincoln stick welder and went to work. Not terrible considering it's the first thing I've ever welded.
Attachment 239304
Attachment 239305
Attachment 239306
Attachment 239307

And that is why we weld.


I made my wife a stand out of manifold scraps and TIG rod to hold a decorative plate up on a shelf. Serious wife points, no cost and it lets me have fun.

Looks good. I'm surprised though you just didnt buy a couple of 4x4s and some 2x4s and make the whole thing out of wood.

...and as it sits this morning, now that the cement has cured.
Attachment 239303

I didn't go that route for a few reasons:
1) I'm dumb and stubborn
2) Given the humidity and proximity to the neighbor's sprinklers, I didn't want to be replacing wooden posts in 6 years. Each of the individual panels are held in with just 4 long wood screws. When the cedar warps, it'll be easy to take them out and redo them.
3) This part is visible from the street and I wanted something a little more...intimidating. The fence is just shy of 7.5 ft tall.
4) The rust & dark wood fits the style of the house
5) It gave me an excuse to weld


The large open area is going to be filled by a set of large double doors, done in a similar style. Maybe aluminium (excuse to buy a TIG machine)?

all in all, a gigantic pain in the ass, especially pounding through 2.5ft of limestone for each post hole. But I'm proud of it.

I would lag that single post to the house (try not to damage the stucco/EIFS) because even cemented in there is a lot of leverage with a door hinged on it and it might shift. Just an observation from doing many many building inspections.

Though if your confident you have enough bearing in the limestone it may not be a problem. Also TX vs Canada might be different with no freeze-thaw cycles.

Edit*
re read

That is a bit of weight.

Another alternative would be to put a header or arch or something to connect the tops of the posts that will be carrying the weight of the doors. Since it looks like you plan on keeping the house a while, you'll definitely want to do something to keep the doors from moving. That's a lot of leverage, even with concrete footings.

I estimate that the fence weighs 400lbs+. I'm not super concerned about the left gate shifting. The right one however, gives me reason to believe that 1" steel square tubing might not be the way to go. Aluminium looks more and more promising.

Reading my mind. An arch is what I was planning, just not sure how to do that on the cheap. This entire thing was done with a tape measure, an angle grinder, miter saw, and my stick welder. Oh and a jackhammer to get through the limestone.

Any ideas on how to roll thick guage metal into a beautiful arch in my garage with hand tools?

im sure you could build a nice piece of kit to bend long pieces.

its 3 wheels, with a bottle jack on the middle one and a large wheel on another as a handle.

I will see if I can find a picture... should be able to build the roller for ~$50 plus bottle jack.

apparently its a harbor friehgt tubing bender im thinking of... probably cheap
http://imageshack.us/a/img63/7366/bendingb.jpg

Or, you could just miter sections of the square tubing to do sort of a segmented arch. Would be good practice welding it all together. You could grind down the welds if using stick or it would be good tig practice before you move to aluminum if you're going to do that.

that wont have a smooth arch, if you can live with that.

Also, learning to weld is good, but your going to pull your hair out trying to weld that much.

3 or 4 mitres for a half octagon type shape might be a compromise.

That's sorta what I was thinking. shoulda been more specific...

Not a fan of the segmented pseudo-arch.
I think I found a solution though; local DIY garage that has a TIG machine you can rent by the day, maybe they'll have a tubing bender as well.
Of course, that still leaves me trying to get an 8.5' wide arch home....

Put top down. Instant pickup truck. Problem solved.

I would like to acknowledge that we have spent more time on fences than manifolds. Not that I am arguing.

Thick gauge sheet metal into an arc? A friend, A torch and a jig to bend it to (forgot the term I'm looking for, a buck?). American Chopper style.

There's a local minitruck shop that makes frames this way. Curved sections cut with a plasma cutter and dressed with a flap wheel on a side grinder, flat/ bent sections cut from strip/ sheet and bent as they weld it. It sounds hood rich, but is fast and strong when finished.

Built my first welding table. I will make a bigger beefer one eventually.
Attachment 239291

Also started on my racing sim setup. I got the bottom frame built so far. Tomorrow I will run and pick up more metal and then hopefully start building the mount for the steering wheel and shifter.
Attachment 239292

I have the steering wheel mounted. Tomorrow I build a spot for the shifter and then I test it out.
Attachment 239289
Attachment 239290

You'd better brace that wheel mount or you'll end up snapping it right off, at the worst possible moment.

I'm sure he'll be putting some gussets on it.

With lightening holes I hope!

Looks like a cool project. I think I need to build myself one of these too. Both Miatas are busted right now and I'm having severe withdrawal.

Lightening holes in the gussets with dimple dies would be baller and make it look professionally made.

for your next iteration, buy a tube bender and build the whole thing out of 2 bent pieces of metal with just a few cross pieces.

haha no kill like overkill.

Looks cool. Im not a gamer, but I can appreciate the effort for this having used an old Logitech wheel on playstation where you had to use your legs to hold the wheel in your lap.

The frame for the rig is made out of 1"x1" 16gauge square tubing. The back bars that hold up the steering wheel are welded on 3 out of the 4 sides. When putting pressure on the steering wheel there is a little flex. I want to add in some sort of bracing, but I don't want to take of any space for leg room. While I could sit comfortably in it with sides holding up the steering wheel, I would like some of my bigger friends to also be able to sit in and fit in. I think I may try to put triangle brace on it and see how that works.

Does anyone have any suggestions for where to put the shifter? I am torn if I want it same level as steering wheel being directly to the right, or a little lower sitting.

I'd want it low like it would be in a real car.

I would put it somewhere near where you would find it in a real race car. Close to the steering wheel, but not right up next to it.

What I would do in your case.... build the shifter to be a support for the steering wheel as well as an arm rest/cup holder. (I know from my gaming days I was always looking for somewhere to put my drink) You could even use one of those cheap ebay clamp on cup holders that they sell for bike handlebars.

if you don't want it to impede leg room have it come straight down and then over to the main frame, but add some flat gussets on it. its not going to see a ton of force that 1x1 wont be able to handle, so flat non triangulated gussets will work fine for the larger shell and prevent sharp angles that you might stub a toe on or something similar in the heat of the battle.

Consider those arcade car games and their shifter placements. That's how I would set mine up. Strictly because its both an arcade. Shifter placement that way isn't set on realism but more on how other arcade systems are setup.

Plus that gives you reasoning when your buddies complain and you can say you built it the same as something else that already exists and that it wasn't tailored directly towards your reach, etc.

Were it me, I'd put everything exactly where it'd be on the car that I use for track days, regardless of how ideal the positioning is. A little extra muscle memory can't hurt.

Here's my welding table.
http://www.onlinemetalsupply.com/Ima...HEET-WHITE.jpg

1' x 2' x .062" aluminum sheet that I lay on top of my plywood workbench.

How well do your welding magnets stick to that?

You have to buy the special non-ferrous magnets.

They wouldn't. you know that.

for what Tim uses is fine.
My welding table is an old work bench that was in my garage when I bought it, then I layed a 2' by 1.5' steel sheet (0.1" thick) on top. would be nice to have a full metal table, but I don't need much more than I have in all reality right now.

What the hell is a welding magnet? Serious. I'll assume it holds together two mild steel pieces at a common angle? That's like, never for me.

I'd say 80% of the time whatever I'm welding is in my vice. It's one of those fantastic vices that spin completely around. Buy one. Mine is a legit Wilton that I got from Lowes for some HF like price, but the HF version seems similar.

18% i'm welding on my aluminum sheet, and the rest is when it's attached to an old '99 head. Those are great heat sinks for welding the primaries to the head flange.

Everything I use is in this picture, except the HF horizontal band saw. A bench grinder barely visible behind the welding mask is bolted to it's own piece of plywood, that's clamped to the bench "so i can move it out of the way", which I have never done.

http://www.absurdflow.com/miata/stdr...qual/lars6.jpg

Is that stainless or steel? Flanges are stainless too?

My welding table was just a sheet of mild steel over my plywood workbench. I wanted the workbench space back, so I built the table. Eventually I will build a bigger table with wheels that is movable.

That's shuiend's stainless steel manifold, yes flanges included.

http://www.absurdflow.com/miata/stdr...ual/lars33.jpg

Ahh ok. Makes sense, I'd probably have a separate welding table if I had the room.

My setup at the new house. I think i lost a box of supplies in the move. :( Take note the magnet is still in it's packaging. haha
Attachment 184912
Now that i'm no longer going to be welding for a living, i'll be moving some of my fabrication tools home. :)

Anyone have any ideas for a clamping system? I've seen people drill holes and use some type of clamp. I could always drill holes and tap them for toe clamps.
I still need to mount my vice.

Spin vice is absolute win.
Attachment 184913

I got a badass Wilton vice off craigslist a while back, mounted to my work bench/welding table. Only thing I don't like is it has the rough jaws which will F up stuff, I have to put a pair of angle iron pieces in there to sandwich whatever I'm working on so it doesn't get indentations from the vice's teeth. I saw a set of magnetic rubber jaw shoes at the industrial supply store that I might pick up, that would be sweet, but I couldn't weld stuff clamped in the rubber, it would melt them :(

You can't unscrew the teeth and put some smooth pieces in there?

I have some big monster vice that I got on my steel table. The tabled had "fallen out of the truck while it was being moved from the dudes shop to storage" (yeah sure, I'm sure it was stolen), and the collar on the vce shaft had broken off so you could just spin the crank out. After $7 to mcmaster and a couple hours cleaning it, its like a new vice. I also need to make some jaw guards out of brass or copper cause my jaws dont unscrew and they're all textured.

I ended up putting the shifter just right off to the side of the steering wheel.
Attachment 239285

This is how it looks without the steering wheel and shifter attached. I went and stood on the mount for the steering wheel and it hardly moved. I am doubtful I will break it while sim racing.
Attachment 239286

In the man cave in front of my tiny monitor. I will bring out the bigger TV when I am ready to actually race.
Attachment 239287

http://www.toolzone.com/acatalog/01590.jpg

Brass vice jaw cap.

Ooh, a thread after my own interests. I haven't done much but a few things I've done over the years:

Honda CR80 2-stroke to CRF100 four stroke conversion bike:

Cutting out a broken section of frame
Attachment 184904

Replacement section welded in
Attachment 184905

Original down tube and lower section cut out
Attachment 184906

New custom lower frame
Attachment 184907

With engine mounted up
Attachment 184908

Custom mounted CRF100 plastics on modded CR80 chassis
Attachment 184909

Some miata stuff:

Intake for top mount manifold welded from some old bits of aluminum

Attachment 184910

Down pipe
Attachment 184911

That's most of the good stuff. I'll take a pic of the welding bench I built a little while back some time and post that up too.

Why?!

Fun. The 2-stroke is far more powerful but it has a power band like a light switch and no torque to speak of.

For a year or so I got into running XR100's and what not with some friends tearing up the smaller tracks and farm fields. Two or more adults racing on 100cc bikes is a hoot. This was just my way of building the ultimate full suspension mini 4-stroke play bike.

I ended up selling it and last I saw it had been converted to a motard for racing on go-kart tracks.