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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 999898)
I am pretty sure I have seen you post saying you wear the big heavy leather glove
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 999902)
I wear tig gloves on both hands. I wouldn't have hands otherwise. Though when just tacking stuff I'll go raw dog.
Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 999904)
I've had the back of my neck get burnt just from the light reflecting off a white wall behind me. That's how strong it is.
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I'm thinking of bringing some mechanics gloves (well a right-handed one) to my next class. They have cotton gardening-type gloves there, but sometimes I feel they are too slippery on the filler.
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Cotton gloves? Naw, you need gloves made from the leather of baby goats.
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Originally Posted by thenuge26
(Post 999921)
I'm thinking of bringing some mechanics gloves (well a right-handed one) to my next class. They have cotton gardening-type gloves there, but sometimes I feel they are too slippery on the filler.
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get some thin TIG gloves and you will not go back, HF has them now pretty cheap
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Well I use a regular glove on my torch hand, but the instructor himself recommended the cotton glove.
After I burned the thumb off the first glove (and very slightly burned myself) I learned not to touch the thing I'm welding with my right hand. |
Holy bee-jeesus I would never wear a cotton glove to weld with. That thing would end up with my hand engulfed in a fireball in no time flat. Although, I rarely wear a glove at all when tig welding. Sometimes I'll use a cheap leather glove I've got on the torch hand when welding aluminum because I don't have a water cooled torch.
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I use a pair of shooting gloves for welding.
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I use Miller TIG gloves for TIG and MIG. They were cheap and excellent quality.
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1 Attachment(s)
Man after welding a bunch of Al perf sheet into tubes with a welder that makes the arc rotate randomly around the tungsten and require scratch start. Using my own damn welder was easy.
Attachment 185579 Thats for my wing lateral supports. |
15 Attachment(s)
Did this whole plumming job for this 10.5 outlaw/pro mod car. Goals are 3s and over 200 in the 1/8th. Made 3800 hp at 36psi previously on a really fucked up set of headers and charge tubes, so more is expected. Dart 530 big block, Twin precision pro comp 91mm dual ball bearing billet turbos. 4-2-1 design, hand formed final collectors, two 2.5" tubes transitioning to 3.5".. what a bitch. I would have made all 6 collectors but there was only 7 days for this project. I tried for 180 degree headers but my client didn't want to go that far.. Haha.
Bunch of pictures Attachment 185564 Attachment 185565 Attachment 185566 Attachment 185567 Attachment 185568 Attachment 185569 Attachment 185570 Attachment 185571 Attachment 185572 Attachment 185573 Attachment 185574 Attachment 185575 Attachment 185576 Attachment 185577 Attachment 185578 |
Originally Posted by Boost_addict
(Post 1001427)
Did this whole plumming job for this 10.5 outlaw car. Made 3800 hp at 36psi previously on a really fucked up set of headers and charge tubes, so more is expected. Twin precision pro comp 91mm dual ball bearing billet turbos. 4-2-1 design, hand formed final collector.. what a bitch. I would have made all 6 collectors but there was only 7 days for this project. I tried for 180 degree headers but my client didn't want to go that far.. Haha.
Bunch of pictures [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/zanderguerra/CC2F469E-7F45-4245-9840-1E1170839F00-6436-0000067254E2BFAE.jpg/IMG] [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/zanderguerra/7126128D-BD3B-455C-9DFD-F8BE603481E9-6436-000006725DC239A2.jpg/IMG] [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/zanderguerra/88C9059A-8323-472D-BA2A-3B311D34056B-6436-00000672637B5293.jpg/IMG] [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/zanderguerra/0677BCE2-A8B1-4A57-9400-EA21F78BADDD-6436-0000067268528535.jpg/IMG] [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/zanderguerra/90CA94E0-213B-4D59-A2DE-BC7581CE7C9E-6436-000006726DBC1E10.jpg/IMG] [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/zanderguerra/1D1B9FF4-A356-494B-8245-BECAC5BBDCB3-6436-00000672743591BD.j/IMG] [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/zanderguerra/8816517A-1DAA-457E-91C3-FA3CB89381AD-6436-00000672795D62CB.jpg/IMG] [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/zanderguerra/E2BEDEF1-865C-472E-A36B-8F5898B73B86-6436-00000672823876BD.jpg/IMG] [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/zanderguerra/ABA645FE-1990-4EDB-824D-F448F675ABF0-6436-0000067297937B00.jpg/IMG] [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/zanderguerra/F14C97B5-9AFF-45BA-87D5-30E455CDEFEE-6436-000006729B9A3071.jpg/IMG] [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/zanderguerra/C9FADA23-31B9-4890-BD95-D379D51C62F3-6436-00000672A260E6F8.jpg/IMG] [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/zanderguerra/5B58AADE-4743-4DB1-82FA-63B1B3840E75-6436-00000672AAE98809.jpg[IMG] [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/zanderguerra/ACA1F2B1-73AF-4578-8A45-BDB5B441CE61-6436-00000673D1A70AD6.jpg/IMG] [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/zanderguerra/75728A4F-40E7-4CBE-85A5-340E5E917820-6436-00000673DDC5CF16.jpg[IMG] [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m188/zanderguerra/98651399-BC85-46AD-A979-FF9A70A84488-6436-00000673D909E888.jpg[IMG] |
To much powwa
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Originally Posted by Boost_addict
mad skillz
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holy fucking shit.
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Originally Posted by jmann
(Post 999900)
I wear a tig glove on my right with a tig finger if I need to rest my hand for support, works great, nothing on the left. They say the glove is not only for heat but for radiation protection, so I wear one.
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Second to last picture: That's how you know something was made properly. Who cares how pretty the outside welds look, is it welded on the inside(may not even be needed) and is it ported / ground smooth. Awesome work.
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Nice!
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1 Attachment(s)
Thanks everyone, it's been a long week I've got to say.
Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 1001488)
Second to last picture: That's how you know something was made properly. Who cares how pretty the outside welds look, is it welded on the inside(may not even be needed) and is it ported / ground smooth. Awesome work.
Just like mamma said, it's what's on the inside that counts. Thought you guys might like this photo too Attachment 185563 |
You win.....lets find a new game! lol Great work
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Damn ! i wanted to take somes classes soon for learning how to weld, but i already found my professor !
DIY is better than ever ! congrats for this amazing work ! |
Tacked up an intake pipe last night for a customers car.
Pretty pleased with the fitment. I just need to finish weld it tonight and build the exhaust system so I can get this car out of my shop! https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...94440586_o.jpg More pictures on my facebook page for subscribers! Matt |
Stealth MSM 400+whp setup :dealwithit:
http://s22.postimg.org/zcak3zgj5/20130421_131430.jpg http://s22.postimg.org/5gjo8jo8h/20130422_161606.jpg http://s22.postimg.org/z9qoh5cvl/20130422_161610.jpg http://s22.postimg.org/bnv28pjzl/20130422_181026.jpg http://s14.postimg.org/s5mnp52wx/20130422_182319.jpg Dann |
Damn damn damn ! one day i want to be able to do that !
Amazing piece of work mate ! |
4 Attachment(s)
Not as nice as most of the stuff here. Also let the flame war begin for the supercharger content. Modified a Buick M62 to work on my car.
Attachment 185555 Attachment 185556 Attachment 185557 Then decided to learn aluminum and remake the manifold. Beware noob aluminum welds made with a mig spoolgun ahead. Still a lot of work left to do. Attachment 185558 |
Originally Posted by cjsafski
(Post 1004891)
Not as nice as most of the stuff here. Also let the flame war begin for the supercharger content. Modified a Buick M62 to work on my car.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...-01-26_531.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...-46-47_134.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...-59-34_319.jpg Then decided to learn aluminum and remake the manifold. Beware noob aluminum welds made with a mig spoolgun ahead. Still a lot of work left to do. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps9b19b0f6.jpg |
Any custom stuff is awesome IMO.
But dude, you don't have to quote all his photos. |
Originally Posted by cjsafski
(Post 1004891)
Not as nice as most of the stuff here. Also let the flame war begin for the supercharger content. Modified a Buick M62 to work on my car.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...-01-26_531.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...-46-47_134.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...-59-34_319.jpg Then decided to learn aluminum and remake the manifold. Beware noob aluminum welds made with a mig spoolgun ahead. Still a lot of work left to do. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps9b19b0f6.jpg |
Originally Posted by thenuge26
(Post 1005055)
What these photos?
Sorry though. |
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http://s23.postimg.org/8msku1zt7/20130424_152520.jpg
Straight enough for you? One advantage of a super low mount. http://s23.postimg.org/4jwyh8gaz/20130424_152826.jpg http://s23.postimg.org/pjhnmh7d7/20130424_152849.jpg Cgeck this, 1.5" straight pipe loosely sitting in, and running through it, it will flow thats for sure :) http://s13.postimg.org/vgeozyf6f/20130424_153441.jpg Snaking up through the chassis, great clearance everywhere. http://s23.postimg.org/kyvh7jnnv/20130424_154137.jpg Just tacked, and missing the V band flange between the flexy and the cat, but looking great so far. http://s23.postimg.org/vmz86dxmz/20130424_160533.jpg Dann |
Dann , did you weld the manifold for the msm in the vise like your picture had it?
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It was being final ported in that photo.
I know where you are going with this, it was welded with another 2 flanges bolted to it and I welded on ONLY the little 2" long starter pipes first, and then welded the rest of the manifold to those. This way you have great access to all the welds that are usually tricky on a small manifold thats so awkward like this. This way you can get 100% nice strong welds with no excuses and you can work on the entry to the runner (porting) on a bench, much easier and better for me anyway. Dann |
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You two make me want to re-do mine. I had my dad do the cuts while I was at school, lets just say it has some interesting pie cuts in it and it closer to the transmission and the trans tunnel than I would like it. Its also very short so that I could put the o2 sensor and the flex pipe section after the downpipe. Speaking of flex pipes, what kind do we like? Vibrant?
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Tim,
What beltsander is that under your bench?
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1005184)
Speaking of flex pipes, what kind do we like? Vibrant?
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1005184)
You two make me want to re-do mine. I had my dad do the cuts while I was at school, lets just say it has some interesting pie cuts in it and it closer to the transmission and the trans tunnel than I would like it. Its also very short so that I could put the o2 sensor and the flex pipe section after the downpipe. Speaking of flex pipes, what kind do we like? Vibrant?
Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1005185)
Tim,
What beltsander is that under your bench? I like most things vibrant. Only thing i dont like of theirs is their aluminum piping. I have had no problem with vibrant aluminum pipe :dunno: |
You guys buy exhaust hangers pre-made? I figured you would just buy 304 rod and cut and bend. The 304 rod metal drop I bought for the price of 1 pre made hanger should be able to do like 8 hangers.
For the flex joint, I'm guessing those are the ones labeled turbo flex joints rather than standard? I wasnt aware that you could get a smooth lined flex joint and not one with bellows inside, which is why I was considering not running one. |
Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 1005200)
I use the smooth liner 6" long vibrant flexes.
Craftsman. I can get more specs once I get home if you need it. Same here, but their stainless exhaust hanger rods are not stainless. They rust just as quickly as their mild hangers. Full suck. They may have changed them since I last bought them, the guys there are very receptive to criticism/comments, and actually seem to care about making a quality product. I have had no problem with vibrant aluminum pipe :dunno: http://img0.fastenal.com/productimages/0403735_hr4c.jpg Vibrant aluminum piping is fine, but I found some other piping that is 2mm wall vs 1.2mm that welds a lot nicer and has a nicer feel as a part. Is the belt sander just a store bought 4x36, or something with a little more oomph? 6'' Bench Top Disc Sander: Get the Perfect Finish with Tools at Sears |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1005203)
You guys buy exhaust hangers pre-made? I figured you would just buy 304 rod and cut and bend. The 304 rod metal drop I bought for the price of 1 pre made hanger should be able to do like 8 hangers.
For the flex joint, I'm guessing those are the ones labeled turbo flex joints rather than standard? I wasnt aware that you could get a smooth lined flex joint and not one with bellows inside, which is why I was considering not running one. RE:Flex, the turbo flex is what I meant for the 3" pipe. I use their smooth liner (straight pipe inside the bellows) for my wastegate pipes. I love those. Smooth liner, lost of flex, not stiff. But Lars' did crack on at least 2 of the bellows.
Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1005205)
I havent used their hanger material.... I go to a local metal supermarket and grab some nice stock and some stainless collars (pic below) for my hangers.
http://img0.fastenal.com/productimages/0403735_hr4c.jpg Is the belt sander just a store bought 4x36, or something with a little more oomph? 6'' Bench Top Disc Sander: Get the Perfect Finish with Tools at Sears For the price of the craftsman, I would consider the 1hp 6x48 harbor freight with a stand. 6" x 48" Belt and 9" Disc Combination Sander |
Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1005205)
I havent used their hanger material.... I go to a local metal supermarket and grab some nice stock and some stainless collars (pic below) for my hangers.
http://img0.fastenal.com/productimages/0403735_hr4c.jpg |
why do you need a 3" one?
I use small ones... like 3/8" ON the exhaust hanger. they are what I use to prevent the straight rod used for a hanger from slipping off side to side. |
Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1005331)
why do you need a 3" one?
I use small ones... like 3/8" ON the exhaust hanger. they are what I use to prevent the straight rod used for a hanger from slipping off side to side. |
Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 1005212)
For the price of the craftsman, I would consider the 1hp 6x48 harbor freight with a stand.
6" x 48" Belt and 9" Disc Combination Sander SANDER 6IN X 9IN BELT DISC CRAFTEX - Busy Bee Tools I need to rewire my shop right now... Im running off a pair of 15A 120v circuits since the move and my duty cycle is pretty low when welding LOL. |
That sander looks like the one I have, except for color. Mine is Craftsman, about 20 years old.
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20amp circuits. 15 isn't enough.
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4 Attachment(s)
I realize. The 15A circuits were there when I took posession. It was just to power 2 outlets and lights on one circuit and an outlet for a 120v pool pump on the rear on its own circuit.
I have a 125A sub installed in the garage now. I just need to buy ~80 feet of 3/3 TEK90 to run from the main panel to my sub and then go on the garage. I have just been too busy to do it yet. Here are some pictures of an axle back exhaust I am working on as a part of a full turboback exhaust for a turbo Civic. Attachment 185547 Attachment 185548 Attachment 185549 Attachment 185550 |
The exhaust clearance and the mostly tacked together exhaust.
The exhaust is On the car in all pics shown except where the exhaust is obviously not on the car. Clearance? Check! http://s15.postimg.org/j3linbodn/20130426_144454.jpg http://s15.postimg.org/hsicsli5n/20130426_144532.jpg http://s15.postimg.org/74eltr86j/20130426_144537.jpg http://s15.postimg.org/4533sw9bf/20130426_144541.jpg I know how unimpressive it looks, but the BIGGEST challenge is a well fitting exhaust that DOESNT have heaps of bends, bends are almost like, cheating haha. Look at something like the FM exhaust which uses a side entry end exit muffler (lol, flow?) and lots of bends because not being custom made they cannot guarantee it will fit the car without a lot of big bends around all the parts. http://s15.postimg.org/sgm3rfs4r/20130426_175027.jpg V Bands, double braced hangers etc etc etc. The works. http://s15.postimg.org/vji8h2hpn/20130426_192622.jpg Note, nothing there is a final weld everything is just tacked including hangers. Dann |
FWIW i have 240v @ 60a with a sub box in my garage and i feel it's still not enough. haha
Dann, what's up with that undertray? Why is it all beat to shit, it looks comepletely useless. Whats the problem with side entry and exit exhaust, other than having more bends, cutting down on flow a litte, but at least it fits nice... What's your process for measuring bends? Sure the "line it up, eyeball it, mark, and cut" method can sometiems work. But having very few bends and making very straight exhaust is tricky without being able to measure a bed accurately, it throws the rest of the exhaust off further down the line. |
Where do you guys get your pipe mandrel bends? Those are too satin to be vibrant.
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No idea about the undertray, Looks totally original and unbent to me??
Eyeball everything. When i started i was going to get all the tools but instead forced my self to eyeball everything, these days it is easy enough. Tim I get them from a local supplier in Australia. They come from Midway metals however first. Yes they are machine finished not mirror polished like the muffler often are. Who cares they all look like shit after 20mins on the circuit :) Dann |
I get mine from a local supplier. Quite a bit cheaper than vibrant, but there are no legs on the elbows.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...73090655_n.jpg |
I get mine from columbia mandrel. The only thing I dont like is that they leave the wax lubricant inside the pipes. It makes some really thick smoke and terrible smells if you try to just weld it without getting all the wax out.
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Mine come in plastic with 6 or 8" legs, Covered in what looks like motor oil.
very glad they have legs. Dann |
I pay the extra $2 for my bends and get the ones that are fully prepped. the picture above is how they look inside and out, straight out of the box.
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Yeah that's what I was looking for. I think those are called steam pipes, or something like that. Abe told me that's what he used...and that's what his vband clamps are. i can get the clamps from mcmcaster, the clamshell style with thumb nuts, for much cheaper than the fancy vibrant male/female/trickass clamp. But Mcmaster's price on the bends isn't cheap.
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Cleaning the wax from inside the jbend is one thing I suggested vibrant do, and now they do. Well, there's still a slight film in there but it washes off easily with warm water.
"sanitary stainless steel butt weld tube fitting". Found them on mcmaster. I use mcmaster because they are local to me, so no shipping. McMaster-Carr 4.5" CLR, compared to vibrants 5" CLR. Price wise, I can get a vibrant Jbend (180 & 45, plus some straights) from my dad's speedshop for the price of 3 unpolished 90deg sanitary tube 'fittings'. This is good as my dad's shop is closing soon. :cry: But I often use ATP's tight radius 3" 120, which is a 3" CLR and some straight legs, for $36 retail + shipping. These help. SS (304 Stainless) 3.00" 120 Degree Mandrel Bent Elbow : atpturbo.com |
sanitary fittings will be polished. they have to be polished to be sanitary grade LOL.
That being said, do you mind posting or PMing what you found on the 90 degree fittings like i posted? M |
Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1005617)
sanitary fittings will be polished. they have to be polished to be sanitary grade LOL.
That being said, do you mind posting or PMing what you found on the 90 degree fittings like i posted? M
Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 1005584)
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HOLY F*** those are expensive.
$56 each? I can tell you that you can find a better supplier. My cost on elbows can buy me a box of 5 for the price of 2 of those ones. I want to find a different supplier that can get me the polished elbows and pipe (locally) with thinner wall. 0.065" wall stainless pipe is heavy stuff. |
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