DIY manifold - Page 21 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 06-16-2015, 08:17 PM   #401
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Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
Nice. I forgot Mazworx sold kits. Mark Mazurowski is a friend of a friend.
It was nice to not have to mess around ordering the parts individually. Although I did select the wrong inlet flange. I ended up taking 2 thousandths off of one side and 6 thousandths off of the mating surface. I know it wouldnt have made a difference, but its been a slow couple of weeks at work. lol
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Old 08-20-2016, 02:31 PM   #402
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Can I just say this thread was inspiration to actually commit to a turbo build. That picture of everything on the motor sold me. Well done sir your work is gorgeous.

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Originally Posted by HHammerly View Post
I am going to build a manifold for my car, it will be a 99 or VTT motor on a 99 car w AC and PS.
I am wondering if anyone has built a forward top mounted EFR turbo maninifold? I'd like to tilt the turbo a little to point the exhaust down about 10-15 degrees to make it easier to route the 3"down pipe since the EFR turbo is pretty long.
Another question is if this heavy turbo should have a secondary mounting point to help it from stressing and cracking the manifold?
Here are some pics of the manifold I built for a 1.6 this summer
Thanks for he advise. Harold


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Old 08-20-2016, 03:37 PM   #403
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Hope that your turbo build turned up well, here is how my EFR turned up on an NB with AC and PS

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Old 08-20-2016, 04:05 PM   #404
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I am currently working on gathering all the parts. But I have a v3 megasquirt, id injectors, walboro fuel pump, ls2 coils, wideband o2, boost gauge, intercooler core and a bloush 16g turbo from one of my subarus with a welded wastegate with a tial 38mm wastegate.

Just got done mounting BRZ seats in my 1996 so now I can start on the fun things.
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Old 08-20-2016, 05:22 PM   #405
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Good, be patient and do it right!
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Old 03-09-2017, 08:46 PM   #406
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Quick question about material choice. Never made a manifold before, but keen to have a go. Car is a '95 1.8, and I plan to use the good 'ol GT2560R.

I have purchased a PRL motorsports head flange which is a very nice piece... Basically like any of the premium flanges out there. (Mazda Miata 1.8L Exhaust Head Flange). It's made from 1018 mild steel. I also have some stainless weld els, so am i better off forking some extra cash for a stainless flange? Or just going with the mild and welding the stainless els to it using 309L filler? Or get some mild els and go with that?

Given that this will be my first manifold, should I Keep It Simple Stupid, and worry about fancy stainless colouring on version 2? I live in a dry climate, so rust isn't much of an issue, but I'd like a nice finish for the aesthetics.

Thanks.
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Old 03-09-2017, 09:53 PM   #407
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Don't worry about a SS flange. You will spend 4-5 times the cost to get one that is the same quality as the PRL flange. Get the T2 log flange from PRL also. It will make your life much easier. If you search the classifieds you can find a somewhat recent FS add I had for a t2 log and just copy that manifold. It is AC/PS compatible.
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Old 03-09-2017, 10:30 PM   #408
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Thanks mate. I wish I'd noticed the turbo flange when I made the order... Shipping these things to Australia certainly adds to the cost! I will be ordering it for this build though.

No AC/PS to worry about, so that helps. Already planning to copy a log style for version 1. In my head I'm thinking of a tube style for version 2 (after much practice) with a turbo size upgrade after some supporting chassis/driveline mods. This forum is invaluable!!
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Old 03-10-2017, 01:43 AM   #409
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I still have a 316SS flange for sale.

https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...flanges-90769/
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Old 03-10-2017, 04:16 AM   #410
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Don't mix mild steel and stainless as it requires a special weld metal. Welding dissimilar materials is not a good idea. Go all stainless or all carbon.
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Old 03-10-2017, 05:13 AM   #411
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Stainless works fine and looks pretty but the coefficient of thermal expansion and malleability* of mild steel are actually preferable for a turbo manifold. It's fine to weld one to the other with stainless rod/wire. Stainless technically conducts heat less well which could be seen as an advantage and may be more prone to cracking but either will work fine if welded properly. The transition looks a bit abrupt on those machined flanges compared to squishing the tubing in a vice for example but the ease of fitment is nice.

* fancy words were used.
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Old 03-10-2017, 06:42 AM   #412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Art View Post
Stainless works fine and looks pretty but the coefficient of thermal expansion and malleability* of mild steel are actually preferable for a turbo manifold. It's fine to weld one to the other with stainless rod/wire. Stainless technically conducts heat less well which could be seen as an advantage and may be more prone to cracking but either will work fine if welded properly. The transition looks a bit abrupt on those machined flanges compared to squishing the tubing in a vice for example but the ease of fitment is nice.

* fancy words were used.
Art I do not in any way disagree with what you have said. I was only making the point that if you are welding then sticking to similar materials is an easier and less trouble prone method. If using the services of a compentent fabricator then yes there should be no issues welding dissimilar metals if they understand what filler wire etc to use. Maybe even have an actual WPS based on a approve PQR, however on this forum that would be rare.
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Old 03-10-2017, 11:54 AM   #413
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Agreed. With a competent welder either material should be fine and each has its merits.
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Old 03-10-2017, 11:56 AM   #414
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He stated he has 309 filler, which will work just fine for joining stainless and mild steel. I have 2 years on a stainless manifold welded to a mild steel flange with 309. No issues.
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Old 03-10-2017, 06:20 PM   #415
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I"m not a competent welder though!

Welding is a bit of a hobby for me though, so if I have to go through a few versions to get to something I like, that's not an issue. I mean, aside from throwing money away.
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Old 03-11-2017, 08:39 PM   #416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Art View Post
Stainless works fine and looks pretty but the coefficient of thermal expansion and malleability* of mild steel are actually preferable for a turbo manifold. It's fine to weld one to the other with stainless rod/wire. Stainless technically conducts heat less well which could be seen as an advantage and may be more prone to cracking but either will work fine if welded properly. The transition looks a bit abrupt on those machined flanges compared to squishing the tubing in a vice for example but the ease of fitment is nice.

* fancy words were used.
I disagree. At and around room temperature mild steel and most other carbon steels are better materials mechanically than 3xx series stainless steel. However at elevated temperatures certain grades of stainless really start to become better mechanically. 304 its up for debate compared to mild at the temperatures turbo manifolds will see, it wins in the corrosion department though (remember corrosion happens faster at higher temperatures). 316Ti is clearly better mechanically than mild steel at elevated temperatures, but the king daddy of stuff we're likely to want to spend money on is 321 stainless.
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Old 03-22-2017, 07:22 PM   #417
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Here is my manifold i just built with the PRL steel flange and 304ss weld els. I used tig 309 wire which is what it required to join the two properly.
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Old 03-23-2017, 04:30 AM   #418
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Well, there you go! Damn fine job sir.
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Old 03-23-2017, 11:21 AM   #419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickd94 View Post

Here is my manifold i just built with the PRL steel flange and 304ss weld els. I used tig 309 wire which is what it required to join the two properly.
​​​​​​​Looks good. Did you test fit the log on the car before you choose the place on it to put the t2 flange?
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Old 03-29-2017, 03:09 PM   #420
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Thank you for the complement. I did test fit it (a few times) before the final location was cut and welded. I also looked at some other kits and manifolds to get the angle of the turbo and proper space to clear the p.s pump and for downpipe.
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