I needed short radius bends for both of the shorty tubular manifolds I made, and I assume I will need them for my NC manifold as well.

 

In 1.5" size, it's roughly a 30% increase in resistance coefficient using short radius over long. But, yes, I agree that this isn't really a factor for a Miata and perhaps all automotive applications.

 

I have acquired some of the first parts for a DIY manifold.

 

Kool !!! where did you get them from? 304?

 

Zabac had them for sale and I picked them up. They are mild steal flanges. My first few manifolds will be made of mild steal, then once I actually get some more practice on stainless I will switch to making manifolds and downpipes in that.

 

I am getting a 1.8l flange cut 1/2" 304 stainless for my EFR build ( EDIT THE GROUP BUY OUT, I AM NOT A SUPPORTING MEMBER )
Glad to give out free of charge the DWG and DXF file for it.

PM me if interested on cad file or flange

 

I have .5 inch 304 flanges for sale already made. How much are they costing you to have cut?

 

Get me a price of how much they would be. I may be interested in picking up one or two if the price is right.

Basically what WittyWorks said is my big thing. If the price on the groupbuy pieces is a good bit cheaper then ordering one from him or the other vendors I will probably pick up some. If it is about the same I will probably wait till I am ready to build an actual manifold.

 

Nice work HHammerly.
The top bolt hole positions for port 2 and 3 may need some adjustment? Usually there is a 4.1mm vertical offset where as this drawing shows them as being in a straight line?
Also the width of material at the outside edges of port 1and 4 could be increased? (Other flange dwgs use 12.7mm width.)

 

Sturovo,
Thanks for the good catch, you are correct on both counts I had it marked on the gasket but failed to offset the two top center bolt holes on the drawing.
I would have noticed the problems on the thin gauge steel part that am getting made just to check for problems like this, but it is best to start with the proper dimensions in the first place.
Thanks again

 

I need a saw to cut tubes and elbows with. I already own the obligatory sawzall, what would you guys recommend for something a little more... precise? Part numbers or links get you props. I'm cutting mild steel if that helps.

- OR -

You can also tell me what to avoid as well. Example: Sawzall

 

the gb is fine

 

As much as we joke about the sawzall, I don't think you should actually use it for anything that needs precision.

I.E. My pipe and canvas car cover collapsed on my miata during a snow storm, I would have used a sawzall when no measurement or straightness is needed.

For pipe, I prefer an angle grinder, however as my fabrication skills get better, I get more and more annoyed when my cuts have slight angles, etc.

A chop saw would solve this, once with an adjustable vise base. Unfortunately, even HF units are $400.

 

You can cheat this. Put the piece in the vice and set it up so your cut is perfect if you hold the shield on the angle grinder up against it. With some finess you can get nearly as straight as a chop saw with a lower chance of nailing yourself in the ***** with a hot piece of steel, or 8" grinding disk fragments to the chest.

 

I use this saw for most everithing, I avoid the chop saw at all cost because it is dirty and can be dangerous If a short pieces are not clamped properly.
If in a hurry I use a plasma cutter and finish it with a Milwaukee 4" grinder and a good flapper wheel. Good luck.

 

I have both a chop saw and a horizontal bandsaw. I love the band saw over the chop saw, its not as messy. Also my bandsaw has a better vise than my chop saw and the chop saw fiber disc wears out a lot quicker than the bandsaw blade. Even cutting stainless the bandsaw blade lasts longer(alot longer running coolant). I have a 4x6 Craftex which from what i have seen in pictures and stats is the equivalent of the 4x6 that Grizzly.com sells.

 

My angle grinder hasn't had a shield on it since I first bought it. It always gets in the way of ****.

 

I have cut SOOOO much stuff with my 4x6 Grizzly it isn't even funny. Best overall tool purchase I have ever made as far as usefulness and actual output in the shop.

 

Humm... angle grinder I have already. Methinks I may try something stupid with a big box of cut off wheels before I drop $350 on a band saw.

Good feedback, thanks all

 

So looking online it seems that the Grizzy 4x6 bandsaw looks exactly the same as the HF 4x6 band saw. Any reason why in the future I should decide to spend an extra $150 to go with the Grizzly one over the HF one?