<p></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I've been meaning&nbsp;to follow up on this with you. How has the IR temp data logging system been working for you so far? Anyone else here interested in a real time brake rotor temp data?</p>

 

Some issues with my power supply, I believe it is related to my vehicle's wiring not your unit. I haven't had the opportunity to do as much testing as I'd like, since it is usually working only partially each day, but lots of data still which has helped me with tuning.

The long-winded email I sent you a couple months ago had details and suggestions for minor improvements, but overall it's a great tool.

 

I still want it, but I've barely been on track this year so it's been pretty far down my list. Glad to hear that your stuff is out there being used.

 

I have in the past run A1RM's and the front and EBC greens on the rear without any issues on the street. However since the car now spends more time on the track I have switched to a Winmax W5/W3 combination.

After rebuilding the rear calipers, master and proportioning valve the rears are locking up way earlier than the fronts. Changing to a Winmax W6.5 front pad for more 'bite' instead of installing a manual bias valve. However, the car is having another test day soon on a different track so will see how the car feels after this and make some more decisions.

Notwithstanding the W6.5's will help with on a hill climb event I have entered as they work from a lower temp than the W5's.

For my rotor temps I use thermo paint (http://www.racerindustries.com.au/af...cator-Kit.html) and whilst it does not give an exact temperature (between 450°C to 650°C), it does give a good indication of the max range and this is sufficent to make a decision on pads (at least for me). The paints will last many applications so it is an economical choice if you do not want to go the full data logging route. Plus I have no spare data logging channels, need t think about expanding this at some point...

An alternative to infrared sensors would be to use a rub type K Thermocouple http://www.tcdirect.net.au/deptprod.asp?deptid=180/44

The reason I use Winmax is that I get them for a very good price.

The car is running the NB8B sport brakes and DBA T3 rotors.

 

Interesting. Mixed based on the below but sounds like new rotors with a new pad type is the way to go.

From Hawk on bedding in pads:
"Clean a used rotor surface with fine sand paper or steel wool, rinse with water, dry and install before
bedding new pads."

From CarboTech:
"If rotors were previously bedded using a different manufacturer’s brake pads; then it is strongly recommended that the used discs (rotors) be reconditioned/turned and meet minimum specification requirements."

From 949 racing sight:
"Carbotech brakes require their own, uncontaminated transfer layer made by Carbotech pads. If this is not done, you will not experience the full potential of the ceramic-kevlar compound.

You will need to do one of the following:

Resurface your old rotors
Completely remove the old transfer layer with a steel wire brush/flapper disc on a drill/grinder
New rotors"

Stoptech:
They actually talk about using a different brake pad to essentially scrub off older pad material. "Uneven pad deposits can often be effectively removed from rotors by using a pad compound that is more abrasive at lower temperatures. StopTech has found the Hawk 9012 (Hawk Blue) compound to be particularly effective in removing uneven pad deposits from rotors."

Pagid:
They just say: "We do not recommend using discs, which are pre-bedded, or have been used with friction material
other than PAGID."

EBC:
The mentioned "Again new Discs/rotors is the solution or a Pro Cut on car Brake lathe re alignment."

 

From the stoptech website:

Here:
-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

 

 

Ok, catching on here. Keeping "friction" as consistent as possible F-R, R-F allows for greater predictability in braking situations, increasing confidence and control over the vehicle which are huge components of going faster. While split compound bands/types can work, one is setting up the most ideal predictability via same compounds.

 

You also need to consider weight transfer. Under heavy braking the front brakes are placed under the most load. Using different F/R combinations allows for tuning the braking properties of the car it could be argued that a manual proportioning valve will do the same. However the valve only adjusts the pressure balance.

Since pads have different properties they can be matched to the situation then the proportioning valve adjusted to suit the combination. I see no issue with mixing pad types/brands it is a case of finding the right combination for the intended purpose.

In my situation if I used W5's all round the rear would lock up even earlier and make hard braking even harder as the fronts will not being used to their potential as the rears lockup too early. If I go W3's on the 4 corners the front rotors will get too hot and impact on the pads performance not to mention again the rears locking before the front. If I was using the car as a daily the W3's would be more than adequate as heat and heavy braking is not a big issue.

Using a full metallic race pad on a daily drive is not the right choice. Horses for courses.

 

<br />
<br /><br />
<br />I will when I get home. 1.6 rotors abused for a year with stop techs. 2 NA track days. 2 track days turbo. Last track day was on cobalts. Hoping the 1.8s up front hold on a bit better.

 

I'm guessing then hardcore people swap pads and rotors for different tracks, say if one track calls for much more trail braking vs. more straighter line hard slow-down.

Well, this has given me great pause to think.

I really appreciate the tenor of the responses here.

 

<p>Rotors actually look fine.</p><p><br /><br /></p>

 

The reason I asked about the rotors is that preexisting wear patterns including edges with lips can cause uneven pressure that can crumble an edge of a pad off. If the new pads are 1-2mm outboard due to a wider pad profile, sitting in the caliper differently, or even using new calipers or slide pins can cause a slight change in alignment. Live with it if rotors aren't turned or replaced with new pads each time. It can happen.

 

What seems like what would be an easy question to answer.

What is required and is it possible to swap 01+ Sport ABS brakes to an 00 Non-Sport Non ABS. Do you need the nuckle or just the calipers, carriers, rotors and lines? I have an entire 01 to source parts but am hoping to forgo swapping the knuckle.

Thank you, I did try searching buy apparently I'm not entering the proper key words.

 

This thread should answer your questions.

http://www.miataturbo.net/suspension...nt-come-52016/

Maybe this one too.

http://www.miataturbo.net/build-thre...into-nb-73579/

 

I'm sorry, I'm not looking to add the ABS unit just the calipers and rotors. I can see where adding the ABS would require the knuckle swap.

 

Ok, you don't need knuckles for that. Just calipers, brackets, and rotors.

 

Thank you that is the answer I was hoping for.

 

You may want to consider the master cylinder and booster as well.

--Ian

 

the real hardcore guys swap everything. The big nascar teams will build a car for each track. something like Bristol (lots of brakes used) they will spec out the biggest kit they can get their hands on. normally a 323mm rotor. for a track like daytona (never use the brakes except for pit lane) they will speck out a 299mm rotor and a tiny caliper to save weight.