The NAPA blanks are actually pretty good. Probably not the issue. You're just fading the pads or cooking the fluid. If it's under 150whp, it's fluid not cooked pads. As mentioned before in this thread, fresh fluid is a big deal. We bleed after every weekend and if an we run an enduro Saturday, we bleed Saturday night. Completely change the fluid a few times a year. Use quality DOT 4 fluid like virtually every Miata specific vendor carries. Some are slightly better than others but all are vastly better than generic LAPS branded mystery juice. We have had excellent results with Motul RBF600 but there are several good choices.

When flushing the system, always start by draining the master and cleaning and grit or silt in the bottom of the reservoirs. We use IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) then fill and begin bleeding.

 

Got it. I am using Carbotech XP10's both front and rear on NT01's. As for the not so fantastic fluid, you caught me there... I've just been using the Valvoline Dot3/4 fluid that you find at Autozone. Some local spec miata guys said they were using it fine so I figured I could use it too, and the lack of bubbles during my bleeds seemed to confirm that. I'm going to go back to the ATE brake fluid and give that a try.

Maybe it is the fluid then. As I mentioned above in this post, I have just been using the Valvoline Dot3/4 fluid due to some other spec miata guys experience... The lack of bubbles throws me off though, I do a bleed before/after each weekend and don't see anything unusual at all. A bleed for me usually means 2-3 master cylinders worth of fluid spread out throughout the 4 corners. I will try go back to the ATE stuff and do a full flush. I need to replace a front brake line (found some rubbing on the vinyl coating of my Supermiata brake lines so I just ordered a new set) so this is probably a good time to do the flush.

 

yea we can't use spec miata as a "what to use" for brakes. generally they use the other cars as brakes. bang into fenders n such. on your next set of pads try the pfc 11's. a bit higher tq should match the larger wheels your running. also when buying fluid i would advise to try something with less compress-ability then ATE. the motul 600 is cheap, you can try the PFC fluid. it has some extreme temperature before it boils.( nearly 600*) dry and it's compress-ability is better than CRF. if your dead set on ATE then we have that in stock as well.

 

I see cross bolts on the PU calipers, so probably not monoblock.

 

Those look like just small bridge bolts to me.

-Ryan

 

And to clarify, 949Racing uses the same awesome 11.75 rotors, tophats, and calipers that come from V8Roadsters. I really like mine and both vendors are great to deal with. Both offer the replacement rotors very inexpensively (~$35), and 949 also sells upgraded curved vane rotors if you desire.

The Trackspeed 11.75 kit is different and uses a different tophat and bracketry, from what I understand from their website and forum posts.

 

I thought the v8r kit used different hats. And uses dynapros? That needs to be checked though.

 

My V8R kit has the Dynalite and the same hats pictured on the 949 site. And the owner of V8R who is local to me told me personally that he supplies them for 949 Racing and that he thinks Emilio is a great guy.

 

Front Big Brake Kit - V8 Roadsters

Dynapro, custom hats that supposedly don't need spacers.

 

We use V8R brackets & hats. DL4's. I'm still not convinced the DP6 lug mount is a worthwhile upgrade. The little time I spent with them didn't reveal any significant difference in feel, pad life or fade resistance. On paper at least, the 6712 plate (DP6) should have something like 15% longer pad life over the 7112 plate (DL4).

By early 2016 we should have our own, much lower cost 11.0 and 11.75 hardware with matching rear bits. Not a high priority just now since the V8R stuff works. Busy getting the crossflows, billet coaxial perch shock mounts and a bunch of other new top sekrit widgets into production before the end of the year.

 

Looks like we were both right

 

V8R used the dynalite 4 (DL4) in the past, and that is the version 949 sells. V8R continued development and moved on to the dynapro 4 (DP4) lug mount, and most recently designed new brackets to switch to the DP4 radial mount. The DP4 and DL4 use the same pads (7112). 949 continues to sell V8R's DL4 kit.

Anyone with a DL4 kit can upgrade to a DP6 caliper as wilwood makes a lug mount version of that caliper with the same lug mount width/offset as the DL4, but like Emilio stated, real world benefits are questionable.

I would be interested to back-to-back a DL4 lug mount kit with a DP4 radial mount kit, since on paper both the caliper itself and the mount design should be more rigid, but doing a proper same day back to back is not very feasible.

-Ryan

 

If people are not seeing a big difference between the pro and light, which one is easier to rebuild?

 

Never rebuilt anything other than the DL4 and that's easy. I assume they are are about the same.

 

Would this big brake kit be a good buy?

Big brake build thread - don't try this at home... - ClubRoadster.net

 

 

That really hurt

 

I read the thread.

I'm picturing the OP in my head.

He looks something like this:




17+ lbs for the rotor alone? El oh el.

Someone should ask him if he is planning to get his shocks revalved because he is gaining so much unsprung weight. And ask him how much slower he expects his 0-60 times will be with all of the additional rotational mass.

 

And they are camaro pieces, so I feel like pads and rotors would be even more expensive to replace.

 

Guys, you are forgetting that, whenever he has "raced", that he has also never lost a "match"
Dude is certified retard.