Anyone have any brake questions?
#761
In our shop we look for discoloration of the brake fluid. It gets darker as it absorbs contaminants out of the air. Touch the bottom of the master reservoir. If you see anything stuck to your finger, screwdriver or whatever you are using, change the fluid.
Street cars, we flush once a year. Race cars get flushed 2-3x a year. Bleed after every 1-2 weekends.
Street cars, we flush once a year. Race cars get flushed 2-3x a year. Bleed after every 1-2 weekends.
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#763
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#764
Engineered by Stoptech. Interesting that they chose Garagestar to eval the prototype kit. We provide a huge amount of data to ST for this kit and our involvement goes back 5 years. They were dead set on a kit that was too huge to fit any wheel Miata owners actually run. It was
a task to convince them to make the kit fit inside a 15x9 6UL. We sent wheel clearance templates. They also had a target price that was comically high. When we informed them that race proven kits were already available for well under $2k, they went back to the drawing board.
I got the strong impression that ST's primary motivation was that several members of their sales, marketing and engineering staff drive Miatas and can't be seen rolling on Wilwoods for their own project cars.
Anyway, looking forward to getting our kit to checkout.
a task to convince them to make the kit fit inside a 15x9 6UL. We sent wheel clearance templates. They also had a target price that was comically high. When we informed them that race proven kits were already available for well under $2k, they went back to the drawing board.
I got the strong impression that ST's primary motivation was that several members of their sales, marketing and engineering staff drive Miatas and can't be seen rolling on Wilwoods for their own project cars.
Anyway, looking forward to getting our kit to checkout.
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#765
Engineered by Stoptech. Interesting that they chose Garagestar to eval the prototype kit. We provide a huge amount of data to ST for this kit and our involvement goes back 5 years. They were dead set on a kit that was too huge to fit any wheel Miata owners actually run. It was
a task to convince them to make the kit fit inside a 15x9 6UL. We sent wheel clearance templates. They also had a target price that was comically high. When we informed them that race proven kits were already available for well under $2k, they went back to the drawing board.
I got the strong impression that ST's primary motivation was that several members of their sales, marketing and engineering staff drive Miatas and can't be seen rolling on Wilwoods for their own project cars.
Anyway, looking forward to getting our kit to checkout.
a task to convince them to make the kit fit inside a 15x9 6UL. We sent wheel clearance templates. They also had a target price that was comically high. When we informed them that race proven kits were already available for well under $2k, they went back to the drawing board.
I got the strong impression that ST's primary motivation was that several members of their sales, marketing and engineering staff drive Miatas and can't be seen rolling on Wilwoods for their own project cars.
Anyway, looking forward to getting our kit to checkout.
i was talking to a stoptech engineer at the last msx, told them the same thing. make it fit under a 15x9 6ul. i did say that if it was a full floating kit they could sell it at $3k for a 2 axle set. i like stoptech calipers, it's their best feature. i also like that this one uses the PFC 7752 pad shape, that is cheap to run.
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#767
if you need assistance let me know. glad to help.
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#768
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Several Pirelli World Challenge MX5s running stoptech kits as required by rules and I've had more than one team tell me they wouldn't be running them if they weren't required to... have had lots of issues. YMMV
#769
your talking about the MX5 right? in a little sprint race like pwc a stock system should do fine.
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#775
it's all about killing the drag. the dynalights can be quite draggy. a kit with floating rotors and a strong caliper it would be good for a few more MPH before the aero drag sets in. if that speed is worth the cost, that would be up to the guy paying the bill. that and we would really need to see if the kit can actually offer that performance.
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#776
All right, here's a question - why are the Dynalites draggy? Just a matter of stuff distorting and causing the pistons to not move cleanly, and is there something that can be done with retrofitting different pistons / seals? And I know mention was made of the StopTech and Afco Dynalite equivalents as maybe being better - is there really anything else other than throwing huge cash at AP/Brembo for something intended for an F3 car? I know too that mention was made of needing to run similar piston material as the caliper body to have things work best, but it seems like even a lot of the AP calipers are running stainless or titanium pistons in an aluminum body - just another compromise?
#777
The brakes on my Miata have never felt progressive and smooth like I would like....
I have had the car for about 2 years and have swapped a few different combinations on that have not worked well.
2000 non-sport street and Autocross use.
Factory Non-Sport Calipers/Rotors with unknown pads/rotors (weak)
Factory Sport Calipers/Rotors with a Stop-Tech pad and rotor combo (purchased used marginally better)
- New Centric Premium Rotors and Hawk HP+ pads (too much front lock-up)
I am currently running the HP+ in the Rear and the Stop-Tech Pads in the front to keep the fronts from locking up.
I am thinking that I likely need to replace/rebuild my calipers and have been trying to weigh the option of making a change to the FM little big brakes for all 4.
I have had the car for about 2 years and have swapped a few different combinations on that have not worked well.
2000 non-sport street and Autocross use.
Factory Non-Sport Calipers/Rotors with unknown pads/rotors (weak)
Factory Sport Calipers/Rotors with a Stop-Tech pad and rotor combo (purchased used marginally better)
- New Centric Premium Rotors and Hawk HP+ pads (too much front lock-up)
I am currently running the HP+ in the Rear and the Stop-Tech Pads in the front to keep the fronts from locking up.
I am thinking that I likely need to replace/rebuild my calipers and have been trying to weigh the option of making a change to the FM little big brakes for all 4.
#778
The brakes on my Miata have never felt progressive and smooth like I would like....
I have had the car for about 2 years and have swapped a few different combinations on that have not worked well.
2000 non-sport street and Autocross use.
Factory Non-Sport Calipers/Rotors with unknown pads/rotors (weak)
Factory Sport Calipers/Rotors with a Stop-Tech pad and rotor combo (purchased used marginally better)
- New Centric Premium Rotors and Hawk HP+ pads (too much front lock-up)
I am currently running the HP+ in the Rear and the Stop-Tech Pads in the front to keep the fronts from locking up.
I am thinking that I likely need to replace/rebuild my calipers and have been trying to weigh the option of making a change to the FM little big brakes for all 4.
I have had the car for about 2 years and have swapped a few different combinations on that have not worked well.
2000 non-sport street and Autocross use.
Factory Non-Sport Calipers/Rotors with unknown pads/rotors (weak)
Factory Sport Calipers/Rotors with a Stop-Tech pad and rotor combo (purchased used marginally better)
- New Centric Premium Rotors and Hawk HP+ pads (too much front lock-up)
I am currently running the HP+ in the Rear and the Stop-Tech Pads in the front to keep the fronts from locking up.
I am thinking that I likely need to replace/rebuild my calipers and have been trying to weigh the option of making a change to the FM little big brakes for all 4.
__________________
#780
All right, here's a question - why are the Dynalites draggy? Just a matter of stuff distorting and causing the pistons to not move cleanly, and is there something that can be done with retrofitting different pistons / seals? And I know mention was made of the StopTech and Afco Dynalite equivalents as maybe being better - is there really anything else other than throwing huge cash at AP/Brembo for something intended for an F3 car? I know too that mention was made of needing to run similar piston material as the caliper body to have things work best, but it seems like even a lot of the AP calipers are running stainless or titanium pistons in an aluminum body - just another compromise?
Really anyone making custom hatted rotors could make a kit that used floating rotors. Finding a rotor thats cut with half circles instead of threaded holes off the shelf in the right size is the hard part. Extra cost would really be in the Ti floating pins and the difference in rotor price.