Anyone have any brake questions? - Page 50 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 09-28-2017, 07:30 PM   #981
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Ok, 49 pages is a lot - haven't read them all and will ask a basic question that was probably answered earlier:

- stock power and weight Miata doing 25-30 minute track sessions on 200tw tires and not braking at the grip limit. Are standard brakes (not Sport brakes installed on some 2001+ cars) with good pads (StopTech, PFC, G-Loc), fresh hi-temp fluid, Centric Premium rotors enough or upgrade to Sport calipers/pads is recommended even for such use? I had 2001 with Sport brakes and it did just fine on track, but I don't know what year and model my next one is going to be...
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Old 09-28-2017, 08:01 PM   #982
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stock power you'll be fine with stock brakes and good pads.
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Old 09-28-2017, 10:15 PM   #983
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stock power you'll be fine with stock brakes and good pads.
Yes, this.
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Old 09-29-2017, 10:46 AM   #984
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E46 M3 ABS units can be used as a standalone. I've had many installed into Corvettes. The Corvette, ABS and bais are both tied together. They are constantly interfering with performance or going 100% shutting the brakes off and going into ice mode (crash).
That's essentially what I'm going for - like I said, I think the RX-8 one can also be used standalone, and the PN I ordered off ebay is the same one specified by WC so I have every reason to believe it'll tolerate Hoosiers. I'm concerned by the Mk60 module, simply because it seems like there's a lot of necessary screwing around with programming and the like, (plus good lord are the premade harnesses expensive) but it's an option too I suppose. Class allows ABS and to be frank, not flatspotting R7s is a great luxury where I'm at so far in skill.
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Old 10-15-2017, 01:26 PM   #985
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the longer pedal could be from air in the system from the swap. Try tapping the caliper with a rubber mallet while bleeding. or it could be a characteristic of the caliper. we find the dynalights will flex a substantial amount, the longer they are used. try bleeding the system first and report back if that didn't solve it.
It took a while to report back but the bleeding didn't seem to be the issue: So i tested the brake on trackday, After more than 180 mile of track driving, no issue to report: no fade, nor spongy pedal...
Except for some less than perfect heel and toe shifting due to the longer pedal travel ( I will have to get some stiffer motor mount) too...
It' not a major drawback but, if i can't get used to it, i'll have to find a solution.
I usually end up braking a bit more than i'd like (longer travel doesn't help to "feel" the brake. so far, it is a mixed feeling regarding the "success" of the mod... but once the "glitches" will be solved, i think i'll be able to appreciate and take full advantage fo the "big" brake kit... ( to help following, i have 11" dynapro front, with Ferodo DS3000 front and ds2500 on oem rear)
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:26 AM   #986
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You could try running a stiffer pad. I am unaware of where the Ferodo lands in that category but the PFC is a good bit stiffer over the Padgid offerings. shortens the pedal throw.
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Old 10-17-2017, 11:41 AM   #987
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Originally Posted by OGRacing View Post
You could try running a stiffer pad. I am unaware of where the Ferodo lands in that category but the PFC is a good bit stiffer over the Padgid offerings. shortens the pedal throw.
Don't run the DS3000 pads... they destroy rotors. If you can get the Ferodo DSUNO which are an endurance pad, they have far better life and flatter coefficient of friction and are designed for limited compressibility. They cost a bit more but make up for it in rotor and pad life. I run the DS1.11 pads and they are awesome, although it took me a couple of hours to trim them to fit the stock rear caliper.
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Old 11-14-2017, 03:44 AM   #988
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Hey OGRacing, I've been enjoying my PFC97 pads per your store's recommendation. However, I've been struggling with locking up only the front left during hard braking. I've ordered a brake bias valve and I plan on corner balancing shortly. Anything else I should look at?
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Old 11-14-2017, 04:31 PM   #989
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Hey OGRacing, I've been enjoying my PFC97 pads per your store's recommendation. However, I've been struggling with locking up only the front left during hard braking. I've ordered a brake bias valve and I plan on corner balancing shortly. Anything else I should look at?
few things to check.
-Quality of the tires. perhaps one tire is corded, older, or losing air.
-Hubs, a won hub can cause excessive drag and heat. the issue might be a worn hub on the right side of the car, and causing poor performance.this would result in the left side locking.
-Another thing to keep in mind is driving style or track surface. A tire might lock repeatedly at the same turn due to an unknown dip, Oil, or other surface debris. Perhaps you're carrying the braking too deep into a turn.
- Alignment settings. Caster and camber both play a large roll in braking performance. do verify that both sides are even.
-Shock setting, or a blown shock. Verify that the front shocks Bump or compression is evenly set, verify that the shocks are no leaking. Uneven shock pressure can cause one tire to lock.


I hope this helps. let us know if you find the issue.
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