Boost oscillation- on external gate! - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 11-17-2010, 07:23 PM   #21
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For reference, here is a picture of a Tial wastegate.

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Old 11-17-2010, 07:27 PM   #22
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yeah top port not bottom.
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Old 11-17-2010, 08:21 PM   #23
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Thats embarrassing that the company tuning didn't see that.
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Old 11-17-2010, 08:28 PM   #24
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sooooooo.... you dont have a line going to the top port for your ebc... it was surging with PW because you had the EBC on the lower port?
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Old 11-17-2010, 10:39 PM   #25
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No, this is even more dumb than that guys.

Look:



This is major derp.

OK see the big purple mushroom?

That has the spring and the diapragm inside.

That pipe connected to it goes to my wastegate.

That unconnected flange is supposed to be bolted up to my manifold- that orifice has the wastegate valve.

The top port is supposed to VTA unless you are using a boost controller.

So the lines were hooked up properly, but the ******* thing was upside down.

Last edited by Faeflora; 11-17-2010 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:51 PM   #26
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HOLY RETARDED SHOP!!!!! Hopefully nothing got messed up with the wastegate... how many cars did you say they have put together? For future reference, heres the tial diagram hehe.
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Boost oscillation- on external gate!-w3_tial_wginstall-2-.jpg  
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Old 11-18-2010, 01:10 AM   #27
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hahahaha
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Old 11-18-2010, 03:30 AM   #28
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7 hours of my labor later the ******* **** is all back in place facing the correct direction. I would really like a full v-band setup.

I looked at the diaphragm and it was aok. The valve shaft was kind of sooted up but I lubed it up and it is fine.
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Old 11-18-2010, 03:37 AM   #29
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Oh I forgot to mention that when I took the gate apart to check it out, vengefully, I put 20psi worth of spring in there before reassembling.
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Old 11-18-2010, 03:45 AM   #30
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Rofl, where is buffons fail award
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Old 11-18-2010, 05:00 AM   #31
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This is great!
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Old 11-18-2010, 09:32 AM   #32
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haha amazing.

i couldnt tell from the pics which side was feeding... i thought you had a 90 on the mani.


but now you should get some legit boosts and make mo powa
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Old 11-18-2010, 10:24 AM   #33
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Not sure why you'd want a 20 psi spring. You'll never run lower than that? A 15 psi spring should be good to whatever boost you'll run.

So did the shop install the gate that way, or did you?
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Old 11-18-2010, 10:39 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmowry View Post
Not sure why you'd want a 20 psi spring. You'll never run lower than that? A 15 psi spring should be good to whatever boost you'll run.

So did the shop install the gate that way, or did you?
Obviously this WG is going on a Cummins.
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Old 11-18-2010, 11:37 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmowry View Post
Not sure why you'd want a 20 psi spring. You'll never run lower than that? A 15 psi spring should be good to whatever boost you'll run.

So did the shop install the gate that way, or did you?
Well, the more spring pressure in the gate, the quicker the turbo will build boost, even with a boost controller. With a wussy spring it will start to crack open much earlier. When I had my 9psi spring I built boost much more slowly than on the stiffer spring.

And 20 psi for no other reason than the one that made you choose to put a 400hp motor in your car

The shop installed my gate.
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Old 11-18-2010, 12:07 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faeflora View Post
Well, the more spring pressure in the gate, the quicker the turbo will build boost, even with a boost controller. With a wussy spring it will start to crack open much earlier. When I had my 9psi spring I built boost much more slowly than on the stiffer spring.

And 20 psi for no other reason than the one that made you choose to put a 400hp motor in your car

The shop installed my gate.
I have a 7psi actuator and a 15 for my turbo. I tried both and with a mbc the car hits boost at EXACTLY the same rpm and there is no difference whatsoever. You have to remember that the exhaust plumbing isn't insanely pressurised. Esp on your car with a large turbo, free flowing exhaust, and external gate. Unless you got a SHITTON of flow it really doesn't need a 20psi spring.

Most factory turbo cars come with low pressure wga's. Evo's/STi's/WRX's all come with 7 or 10psi spring stock. Yet those cars boost well over 20psi on the stock wga and hit boost exactly the same as with stronger springs. AS LONG AS there's a boost controller connected.
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Old 11-18-2010, 12:20 PM   #37
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Congratulations!
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Old 11-18-2010, 12:25 PM   #38
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I would run away from that shop. After they pay me back for the dyno time. But good luck with that.
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Old 11-18-2010, 12:28 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faeflora View Post

And 20 psi for no other reason than the one that made you choose to put a 400hp motor in your car
My reason for that was exactly what you are facing now. 30 different failsafes and plumbing nightmares to reach a simple goal. And then taking half of it out to pass emissions. Can't beat a factory PCM and simple normally aspirated power. Now if only I could finish the ******.
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Old 11-18-2010, 12:39 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmowry View Post
My reason for that was exactly what you are facing now. 30 different failsafes and plumbing nightmares to reach a simple goal. And then taking half of it out to pass emissions. Can't beat a factory PCM and simple normally aspirated power. Now if only I could finish the ******.
Indeed. If the LS was an option in 2006 I would have gone for it. The cost is ending up pretty similar. Oh well if wishes were horses we'd all be eating steak.

Where is your build thread?
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