Engine Build Opinions Wanted
#21
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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It's already boosted. I like it, It could use more but then I don't have it cranked up to it's potential.
Cooling is already good, have a godspeed already and putting in slim fans next week.
Motor is currently fine, I just want to build a new one in my spare time. Since I will have it out anyway for a repaint, why put an old one back in?
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"I wouldn't spend much on a 1.6 rebuild though, I'd rather source a 1.8 block, build it and strap a 99/00 head to it...300rrwhp."
What would this entail?
Cooling is already good, have a godspeed already and putting in slim fans next week.
Motor is currently fine, I just want to build a new one in my spare time. Since I will have it out anyway for a repaint, why put an old one back in?
---------------
"I wouldn't spend much on a 1.6 rebuild though, I'd rather source a 1.8 block, build it and strap a 99/00 head to it...300rrwhp."
What would this entail?
#24
I will play Devils Advocate here and remind you of the expected timeline of the 6" dif above 200whp. I think I'm sitting at a comfortable 210-215whp now and it's hanging in there... but I think 250whp would be asking to get stranded somewhere inconvenient. I'm just saying that getting yourself a AAA membership might be a wise investment. Either that or get some 165series tires.
My advice, get a low mileage 1.8 from a trusted source... '97 or older will be cheaper leave it stock. Get the FM swap kit. Cost for both: +/-$1k... or maybe way less depending on the hookup for a motor.
Get the ETD Greddy 1.8 mani http://www.etdracing.com/miata2.html.
Sell off all your bandaids and the Greddy 1.6 manifold to pay for most of it. Cost: +/-$0
Get some 460cc injectors. Get an MSpnp w/MAF delete and EBC. Cost: $1k.
Turn up boost as required for 250whp.
Periodically purchase parts for mild 1.8 build to install when it blows (could be 5k miles or 5years). Cat Rods, OEM tri-coat pistons, rebuild kit w/oil-water-timingbelt. Practice headwork on your original 1.6 head and sell it... then do actual work on 1.8 (nothing fancy).
Reinstall motor and run Greddy turbo to limits of efficiency while you save for BEGi S4/GT2860/3"exhaust/550's. Sell off Greddy parts to offset cost. Then set boost as required for 300whp. Timeline to make this happen depends on money.
More money=shorter timeline.
Less money=longer timeline.
My advice, get a low mileage 1.8 from a trusted source... '97 or older will be cheaper leave it stock. Get the FM swap kit. Cost for both: +/-$1k... or maybe way less depending on the hookup for a motor.
Get the ETD Greddy 1.8 mani http://www.etdracing.com/miata2.html.
Sell off all your bandaids and the Greddy 1.6 manifold to pay for most of it. Cost: +/-$0
Get some 460cc injectors. Get an MSpnp w/MAF delete and EBC. Cost: $1k.
Turn up boost as required for 250whp.
Periodically purchase parts for mild 1.8 build to install when it blows (could be 5k miles or 5years). Cat Rods, OEM tri-coat pistons, rebuild kit w/oil-water-timingbelt. Practice headwork on your original 1.6 head and sell it... then do actual work on 1.8 (nothing fancy).
Reinstall motor and run Greddy turbo to limits of efficiency while you save for BEGi S4/GT2860/3"exhaust/550's. Sell off Greddy parts to offset cost. Then set boost as required for 300whp. Timeline to make this happen depends on money.
More money=shorter timeline.
Less money=longer timeline.
#25
Boost Czar
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
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My advice, get a low mileage 1.8 from a trusted source... '97 or older will be cheaper leave it stock. Get the FM swap kit. Cost for both: +/-$1k... or maybe way less depending on the hookup for a motor.
Get the ETD Greddy 1.8 mani http://www.etdracing.com/miata2.html.
Sell off all your bandaids and the Greddy 1.6 manifold to pay for most of it. Cost: +/-$0
Get some 460cc injectors. Get an MSpnp w/MAF delete and EBC. Cost: $1k.
Turn up boost as required for 250whp.
probably not a half bad idea....
#26
When I get around to building my motor I will be using these.
http://www.maruhamotors.co.jp/miata/...powerrods.html
[/url]
http://www.maruhamotors.co.jp/miata/...powerrods.html
[/url]
These big trouble lead to an engine broken!
#28
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mid Tenn
Posts: 198
Total Cats: 0
I will play Devils Advocate here and remind you of the expected timeline of the 6" dif above 200whp. I think I'm sitting at a comfortable 210-215whp now and it's hanging in there... but I think 250whp would be asking to get stranded somewhere inconvenient. I'm just saying that getting yourself a AAA membership might be a wise investment. Either that or get some 165series tires.
My advice, get a low mileage 1.8 from a trusted source... '97 or older will be cheaper leave it stock. Get the FM swap kit. Cost for both: +/-$1k... or maybe way less depending on the hookup for a motor.
Get the ETD Greddy 1.8 mani http://www.etdracing.com/miata2.html.
Sell off all your bandaids and the Greddy 1.6 manifold to pay for most of it. Cost: +/-$0
Get some 460cc injectors. Get an MSpnp w/MAF delete and EBC. Cost: $1k.
Turn up boost as required for 250whp.
Periodically purchase parts for mild 1.8 build to install when it blows (could be 5k miles or 5years). Cat Rods, OEM tri-coat pistons, rebuild kit w/oil-water-timingbelt. Practice headwork on your original 1.6 head and sell it... then do actual work on 1.8 (nothing fancy).
Reinstall motor and run Greddy turbo to limits of efficiency while you save for BEGi S4/GT2860/3"exhaust/550's. Sell off Greddy parts to offset cost. Then set boost as required for 300whp. Timeline to make this happen depends on money.
More money=shorter timeline.
Less money=longer timeline.
My advice, get a low mileage 1.8 from a trusted source... '97 or older will be cheaper leave it stock. Get the FM swap kit. Cost for both: +/-$1k... or maybe way less depending on the hookup for a motor.
Get the ETD Greddy 1.8 mani http://www.etdracing.com/miata2.html.
Sell off all your bandaids and the Greddy 1.6 manifold to pay for most of it. Cost: +/-$0
Get some 460cc injectors. Get an MSpnp w/MAF delete and EBC. Cost: $1k.
Turn up boost as required for 250whp.
Periodically purchase parts for mild 1.8 build to install when it blows (could be 5k miles or 5years). Cat Rods, OEM tri-coat pistons, rebuild kit w/oil-water-timingbelt. Practice headwork on your original 1.6 head and sell it... then do actual work on 1.8 (nothing fancy).
Reinstall motor and run Greddy turbo to limits of efficiency while you save for BEGi S4/GT2860/3"exhaust/550's. Sell off Greddy parts to offset cost. Then set boost as required for 300whp. Timeline to make this happen depends on money.
More money=shorter timeline.
Less money=longer timeline.
I've been babying the rear end untilI find something suitably local. I've never even chirped the tires once in this thing. I like replacing **** with better ****, not replacing **** because it's broken.
1.8 swap is not a bad idea really. Ideally I only want to pull the motor once in the next 100k, I don't get alot of free time. I'm going to go do some searching about. The only thing about swapping is I start thinking about how a v8 would fit rather nicely in that hole.
#29
If building a 1.6 what is the main difference between the long nose and the short nose crank?? I can't seem to find anything about it except that the longnose is better. I have a spare 1.6 laying around I wanted to start building but not sure if its a short nose. Even if it is short nose then is it worth building it? Can it be made better or comparable to the long nose?
Sorry for the thread hijack, but I thought this would be related to the OP.
Sorry for the thread hijack, but I thought this would be related to the OP.
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