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Old 05-15-2015, 04:36 PM   #21
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Old 05-15-2015, 05:16 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
I'd like one of you to explain how loctite does anything when the problem is this:

I'll bite. It would look red in the threads where the shaft broke in half! Damn....

I guess I was lucky, but I never broke a TB on my motors. I never touched the screws either. I disassembled that throttle body a couple months ago and both screws broke in half before they threaded out of the shaft! Mazda stakes the ends of the screws. At least on mine, it would have been impossible for those screws to 100% vibrate out.

I could see them maybe getting loose a bit though, and then it vibrating around till something breaks though.

Either way, I am NOT a fan buying BS for these motors when it's not needed. But I would consider buying a different throttle body since that can be a safety item (throttle failure causing it to stick is bad) and if it fails it takes out a lot more $$$ parts.
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Old 05-15-2015, 05:39 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Schuyler View Post
Henry (Team DNR) JUST had his built F-Prod motor eat a screw from a BROKEN throttle shaft in Savannah. The screws backing out are not nearly as threatening of a problem as the shaft breaking, in my opinion.
We tried a slightly different design in that one, but yeah it still failed. We had three regular stock ones snap pretty quickly, (hell, two gave out in the same weekend) but this one lasted around two seasons worth of racing. Every time it's been fatigue cracks in the throttle shaft that released the screw. We got lucky. The first few times, the screw was pounded to slag without hurting internals or compression somehow. This time it took out cylinder four.

At this point, we're done with screws attaching the plate to the shaft. We plan to have only a slot for the plate to thread through the shaft and use some sort of adhesive like Loctite to hold it together, maybe brazing.

Yeah, it might still come loose, but there's no screws and a throttle plate isn't going to make it past the intake runners. The rules won't let us run something like a Skunk2.
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Old 05-15-2015, 06:17 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
I have a Skunk2 now, yes. I didn't notice any throttle touchiness when switching, though.

--Ian
By that I mean when you're creeping at 5mph in first with the clutch out just above idle its a bit jumpy, but not burnout jumpy. Its hardly noticable compared to a 1 cam later throttle body, but I was coming from the early complex linkage tb.
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Old 05-15-2015, 06:18 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
By that I mean when you're creeping at 5mph in first with the clutch out just above idle its a bit jumpy, but not burnout jumpy. Its hardly noticable compared to a 1 cam later throttle body, but I was coming from the early complex linkage tb.
1994 TB? I want to change my '00 TB to it precisely to improve driveability as you describe.

Does it appear to have the same sucky breaky TB shaft and screws?
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Old 05-15-2015, 06:20 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
1994 TB? I want to change my '00 TB to it precisely to improve driveability as you describe.

Does it appear to have the same sucky breaky TB shaft and screws?
Yeah the 94tb. I believe it still has the same problem with the shaft as the rest of them. I wish I didnt leave the 94tb on the engine that I sold.
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