Help - my car is running too cold
10-26-2009, 12:16 PM
#26
I thought the heater core return was hot water and then it mixes with the cold water in the lower rad hose? And the re-route brings the hot water to the top of the rad hose so itgets cooled through the rad? I'm I wrong? Or is he talking about the rear termostat re-route?
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10-26-2009, 12:19 PM
#27
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I thought the heater core return was hot water and then it mixes with the cold water in the lower rad hose? And the re-route brings the hot water to the top of the rad hose so itgets cooled through the rad? I'm I wrong? Or is he talking about the rear termostat re-route?
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10-26-2009, 12:30 PM
#31
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The only reason I brought up the heater core was because there were a number of folks doing this in the past, and it was part of the BEGi turbo kits. If you didn't touch the heater core return, don't now.
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10-26-2009, 01:08 PM
#32
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I have done 3 tests on track
1st. Begi race reroute with heater core return in stock location-Overheated in maybe 1/2 a lap
2nd. Same as first, only ducted, completely. Overheated after about 3 laps.
3rd. Ducted, return AFTER t-stat. Am yet to overheat.
To the OP, throw some cardboard in front of the radiator if you cant get the temps up.
1st. Begi race reroute with heater core return in stock location-Overheated in maybe 1/2 a lap
2nd. Same as first, only ducted, completely. Overheated after about 3 laps.
3rd. Ducted, return AFTER t-stat. Am yet to overheat.
To the OP, throw some cardboard in front of the radiator if you cant get the temps up.
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10-26-2009, 02:03 PM
#33
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I have done 3 tests on track
1st. Begi race reroute with heater core return in stock location-Overheated in maybe 1/2 a lap
2nd. Same as first, only ducted, completely. Overheated after about 3 laps.
3rd. Ducted, return AFTER t-stat. Am yet to overheat.
To the OP, throw some cardboard in front of the radiator if you cant get the temps up.
1st. Begi race reroute with heater core return in stock location-Overheated in maybe 1/2 a lap
2nd. Same as first, only ducted, completely. Overheated after about 3 laps.
3rd. Ducted, return AFTER t-stat. Am yet to overheat.
To the OP, throw some cardboard in front of the radiator if you cant get the temps up.
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10-26-2009, 02:14 PM
#34
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I have done 2 tests on the track.
both on a 1/2 mile straight.
1. 2" radiator no undertray - Overheated anything over 100mph.
2. 2" radiator w/cooling panel and undertray - normal temps peaking at 130mph.
stock cooling system.
both on a 1/2 mile straight.
1. 2" radiator no undertray - Overheated anything over 100mph.
2. 2" radiator w/cooling panel and undertray - normal temps peaking at 130mph.
stock cooling system.
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10-26-2009, 02:27 PM
#35
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Its much easier to get air through a radiator at speed on big straights than a bunch on low speed twisty crap. I could make my stock 1.6 overhat on a local 1.3 mile 16-turn course, not on the 1.7 11-turn course.
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10-26-2009, 02:37 PM
#36
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It was 98*F ambient IIRC nice warm August day on the second attempt; about 4 seconds slower than SM record IIRC. Just sayin' homey. If we are talking street cars, no reason to move the heater core return. I'm curious to the flow differential between the upper hose once the thermostat opens and the heater core return...
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10-27-2009, 02:01 AM
#38
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I have the same issue as the OP, I have the 2" Mushimoto rad and the M-tuned reroute. The thermostat and fans all operate correctly and the car will come up to 94C when stuck in traffic, but if you get moving with much speed the coolant temps drop to around 80C.
I'm sure the issue is that the radiator just works too well, so the amount of coolant that goes through the closed thermostat is enough flow to keep the engine below operating temp.
I'm just going to block off part of the rad for the winter and call it a day. I picked up some corrugated plastic that I'm fairly sure is made of polypropylene so it should be ok with the temps, and won't fall off the first time it gets wet.
I'm sure the issue is that the radiator just works too well, so the amount of coolant that goes through the closed thermostat is enough flow to keep the engine below operating temp.
I'm just going to block off part of the rad for the winter and call it a day. I picked up some corrugated plastic that I'm fairly sure is made of polypropylene so it should be ok with the temps, and won't fall off the first time it gets wet.
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10-27-2009, 02:49 AM
#39
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I have the same issue as the OP, I have the 2" Mushimoto rad and the M-tuned reroute. The thermostat and fans all operate correctly and the car will come up to 94C when stuck in traffic, but if you get moving with much speed the coolant temps drop to around 80C.
I'm sure the issue is that the radiator just works too well, so the amount of coolant that goes through the closed thermostat is enough flow to keep the engine below operating temp.
I'm just going to block off part of the rad for the winter and call it a day. I picked up some corrugated plastic that I'm fairly sure is made of polypropylene so it should be ok with the temps, and won't fall off the first time it gets wet.
I'm sure the issue is that the radiator just works too well, so the amount of coolant that goes through the closed thermostat is enough flow to keep the engine below operating temp.
I'm just going to block off part of the rad for the winter and call it a day. I picked up some corrugated plastic that I'm fairly sure is made of polypropylene so it should be ok with the temps, and won't fall off the first time it gets wet.
Thanks!
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