NA & NB Miata Hood Louvers - Gauging Interest
07-31-2014, 03:58 PM
#143
Newb
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 9
Total Cats: -57
I was done with this thread until you guys continue on bashing me, long after I stopped posting. As long as you and your minions continue to bash someone they don't even know, who has 10 years more experience and 50 more proven products available than you have now, I will continue to post my views.
I find it humorous that there are folks here that would trust "your" product (which is a direct copy of MY product) to perform better than a product from the person who created the design in the first place. Kinda ironic......or something.
I guess it must just be because I'm not into Miatas.....even though I own one somehow?
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07-31-2014, 06:24 PM
#149
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 638
Total Cats: 76
has a mature section? I know... pay vendor fees to push your **** and find out. Otherwise GTFO!!!
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07-31-2014, 10:32 PM
#151
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chesterfield, NJ
Posts: 6,892
Total Cats: 399
Imma market a set of louvers called zraptor styleworkz and sell them for $99. Universal custom fit.
I thought it was quite clever when I first saw vraptors shipped flat louvers I must say.
I thought it was quite clever when I first saw vraptors shipped flat louvers I must say.
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08-01-2014, 01:33 AM
#153
Not sure what other sophisticated "testing" is required? Either the louvers work to lower underhood temps, or they don't. Blisters on my fingers vs ambient temp hatch surface.
You can have all of the fancy sensors and data you want, but the bottom line is that all those pressures and measurements and data points you spent hours or days logging on a virgin hood all go away as soon as you cut a hole in it.
You can have all of the fancy sensors and data you want, but the bottom line is that all those pressures and measurements and data points you spent hours or days logging on a virgin hood all go away as soon as you cut a hole in it.
Lowering underhood temps is fine and all, but cooling off a hatch is NOT THE INTENDED purpose.
THE INTENDED PURPOSE IS TO CREATE A LARGER PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL TO INCREASE FLOW THROUGH ALL OF THE FRIGGIN HEAT EXCHANGERS!!!
That includes the radiator, and possibly oil cooler and intercooler. Not many cars suffer catastrophic failure due to a hatch being too hot, or underhood temps being too high. Now a mechanical failure because of an oil cooler or radiator that wasn't doing its job...that actually happens.
You stand behind your products so hardcore, you actually install them for product photos. Wait...
If the blue Miata is yours, the only thing you have shown is you won't install your product on your own car
Earlier, I looked at my hood and thought "What makes you think I won't cut you?"
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08-01-2014, 02:06 AM
#154
I`m more irritated that a vendor that is not a sponsor has been posting links to their own site and product. Where are the mods to delete those posts and enforce the rules? Also has no intro thread and is thread crapping.
I don't care who stole what or all that other ****. Don't bring your **** covered shoes into my house when you were clearly asked to take your f`ing shoes off.
I don't care who stole what or all that other ****. Don't bring your **** covered shoes into my house when you were clearly asked to take your f`ing shoes off.
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08-01-2014, 09:39 AM
#157
I`m more irritated that a vendor that is not a sponsor has been posting links to their own site and product. Where are the mods to delete those posts and enforce the rules? Also has no intro thread and is thread crapping.
I don't care who stole what or all that other ****. Don't bring your **** covered shoes into my house when you were clearly asked to take your f`ing shoes off.
I don't care who stole what or all that other ****. Don't bring your **** covered shoes into my house when you were clearly asked to take your f`ing shoes off.
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08-01-2014, 10:50 AM
#158
Newb
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 9
Total Cats: -57
Why are you still posting here?
Lowering underhood temps is fine and all, but cooling off a hatch is NOT THE INTENDED purpose.
THE INTENDED PURPOSE IS TO CREATE A LARGER PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL TO INCREASE FLOW THROUGH ALL OF THE FRIGGIN HEAT EXCHANGERS!!!
That includes the radiator, and possibly oil cooler and intercooler. Not many cars suffer catastrophic failure due to a hatch being too hot, or underhood temps being too high. Now a mechanical failure because of an oil cooler or radiator that wasn't doing its job...that actually happens.
You stand behind your products so hardcore, you actually install them for product photos. Wait...
If the blue Miata is yours, the only thing you have shown is you won't install your product on your own car
Earlier, I looked at my hood and thought "What makes you think I won't cut you?"
Lowering underhood temps is fine and all, but cooling off a hatch is NOT THE INTENDED purpose.
THE INTENDED PURPOSE IS TO CREATE A LARGER PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL TO INCREASE FLOW THROUGH ALL OF THE FRIGGIN HEAT EXCHANGERS!!!
That includes the radiator, and possibly oil cooler and intercooler. Not many cars suffer catastrophic failure due to a hatch being too hot, or underhood temps being too high. Now a mechanical failure because of an oil cooler or radiator that wasn't doing its job...that actually happens.
You stand behind your products so hardcore, you actually install them for product photos. Wait...
If the blue Miata is yours, the only thing you have shown is you won't install your product on your own car
Earlier, I looked at my hood and thought "What makes you think I won't cut you?"
As for your twisted logic on engine bay heat.....I thought the purpose was to get HEAT away from where you don't want the HEAT to be? In the example I gave above, several people were having problems grenading their $10,000 transaxles. Why? Because the transaxle is air-cooled. If you have a transaxle processing 700+hp, it generates lots of heat. It's very tough to get that heat to transfer OUT of the transaxle case if the air surrounding the transaxle is 300 degrees....right? The only way the hatch can get so hot as to burn your fingers if if the inside of the engine bay is hot enough to heat the hatch to those temps, right? If you bring the temps in the engine bay down to closer to ambient temps, then the transaxle is surrounded by COOLER air than temp of the oil inside the transaxle, right? And if there is a temperature difference, then heat can transfer OUT of the transaxle....which resulted in a 120 degree DROP in transaxle oil temp......just by lowering the temperatures in the engine bay. And your transaxle lasts a heck of a lot longer when it's running at 180 degrees internally instead of 300.
I know this might all sound really complicated, but that is generally the purpose behind installing louvers......to reduce the temperature of something that is running too hot, right? To create a path for the heat to escape so you can allow cooler air to replace the hot air that previously occupied that same space? Maybe I'm all wrong here, but as long as I keep getting the results I wanted (significantly reduced temps of engine bay components) I guess I'll just keep doing things wrong. Why change what works?
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08-01-2014, 10:55 AM
#159
I dont care how hot the air in the engine bay is, as long as its not hot enough to melt the electrical connectors and wiring. I care about increasing air flow through the heat ex-changers in the front of the car by increasing the delta P across them. If I just wanted to make it cooler in the engine bay I'd run turn signal intakes and hood risers.
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08-01-2014, 11:04 AM
#160
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: The Woodlands, TX
Posts: 328
Total Cats: 13
Step away from the keyboard, start acting like a grownup, and get back to work. Leave all this tomfoolery to the rest of us 'mature adults'.
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