vehicular

iTrader: (3)

After looking more closely, I think the tack welds I thought I was looking at were just the epoxy you used on the yarn.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Are these going to be an item you regularly stock, or only 1 group buy like the headlight brackets?

92mazdaspeed

Finally.😃 I can't wait to hack up my extra hood. 😃

rwyatt365

"Tomorrow, tomorrow, I love ya tomorrow..."

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

Is it tomorrow yet?
Just make sure you guys make the edges nice and clean. so i can drill and rivet the thing to my current hood.

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

We're going to do the group buy first, then if response is good we'll probably work on making them available through Good-Win Racing, but no time frame or guarantee on that. The group buy will be the place to get them for sure and at a MT.net-only price lower than they will retail for.

Yep, chose a hole size that works with both metric hardware and rivets. Stainless hardware will be included, but that way you have the rivet option.


-Ryan

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

aluminum rivets ftw!!

darkcambria

iTrader: (2)

Very nice! Thank you for taking the time to capture and show data. I appreciate that and my money will be going to you rather than others who just liked to talk.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

You should probably stick with aluminum rivets only. Stainless contacting aluminum in something that will be wet and exposed to electrolytes will make for some bad times.

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

I've had stainless hardware on aluminum parts for years, haven't noticed any issues yet, but I'll keep that in mind. I am expecting that everyone will paint these - they look great in even just rustoleum flat black. Although the really clean/sleeper look is going to be if someone paints them body color and paints the bolt/rivet heads If someone wants the aluminum look I'll recommend they clear coat them though.

-Ryan

tomiboy

iTrader: (3)

Got pics of the whole hood?

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

if my hood lasts long enough to corrode to steel parts i would consider that a success. i'm on my 3rd hood out of 5 years of racing.

Ryan_G

iTrader: (8)

^this

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

Nope, this is the only pic you get ever

Tomorrow.

Double O 86

Is there a third option to achieve a 'flush' factory look? JB Weld? Crazy Glue, maybe?

92mazdaspeed

You could probubly use body panel adhesive. A lot of cars that come from the factory are now using it. It's just a really strong 2 part epoxy made for bonding metal panels together.

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

As in, no hardware? No, not that I will stand behind. But a few rivets painted body color is going to be very low-key.

-Ryan

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

Lol @ Crazy Glue. This is racing, not arts and crafts, man!


3M sells a line of very excellent panel bonding adhesives that are easy to use and excellent for something like this. Window Weld or RTV are surprisingly good for this sort of thing, too, if you're ghetto like that.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

From what I can find, it looks like aircraft use countersunk rivets on the skin for drag reduction. It looks like the substrate material needs to be countersunk, not the skin, and then the rivet is "dimpled" flush with the surface.

3/16" aluminum countersunk rivets are available on McMaster.

Edit: I would do bonding material and rivets. Rule #37: There is no overkill, there is only "open fire" and "time to reload."

FrankB

iTrader: (4)

To bounce off of somebody's comment about losing the rivets on the hood. If the louvers run along side the under bracing, instead of riveting them to the outer skin of the hood, is it possible to rivet them onto the surrounding bracing on the underside? Specifically on the NB hood that is...