Driving on the freeway the wideband gauge just stopped. No lights at all. Checked MS and it isn't getting a wideband reading. I checked fuses and didn't see any out. What's the next likely stuff to go through? Dead controller likely? Short? Broken wire? All of the above?

I don't see anything obvious. No burned spots in the wiring harness. No loose connections. The controller sits on top of the tranny and the wiring runs up the firewall and across the top.

Nothing is easy to get to. For the couple hundred bucks they cost it's not worth having a shop go through a bunch of diagnostics on it so I'm pretty much on my own Worst of all....

I HATE electrical work!

 

worst case you're out 200 and get a brand new one. How old is it?

 

is lc-1? try to connect with logworks. otherwise time to request RMA.

 

2 years old. It's an AEM Uego gauge/controller/sensor.

The gauge screen on tunerstudio shows full lean and doesn't move. Basically no input to megasquirt. Was working fine and died instantly. I'm thinking short/broken wire or a dead controller but I know exactly zip.

I'm almost thinking I'd rather spend the $200 rather than spend a couple hours getting greasy and frustrated with a multimeter. I'm clueless with this crap. Thought someone might have a couple bright ideas first though. Something obvious to check besides the vampire clip powering it and the fuses.

 

Umm...yeah...about that.

 

Mine just stopped working properly about 2 weeks ago. For some reason when I got back from letting the car sit for a few weeks, it's very unresponsive. If I sit at a light, then it'll read rich for awhile when I start moving. When over run kicks in, it'll still say there's fuel being burned. I'm guessing I need a new sensor, but it's strange it happened while the car was just sitting. It's been about 2 years for my sensor, too and I've had plenty of oil burned or lost somewhere, so it could be nice and clogged. Mine's a PLX.

If you can get at the controller at all, I'd test the power going to it. If the power is good, you need to repair or replace the controller. If the sensor is bad, you'd see some indication. If power is bad at the controller, you can be lazy and just splice in new power from somewhere easier to get to.

 

Mine is completely dead. No lights, no readings, no output.

 

Do you have power to the gauge?

 

Vampire clips are horrible. Make sure you've got solid 12V and ground going to the device.

 

Using a simple voltage detector light I have power into and out of the gauge. There are two harnesses. I'm guessing a short somewhere in the 6 wire harness from the sensor to the gauge. I'll pull that harness firs to see if I can track down a short. Gahhh! I hate electrics.

 

Breath buddy, you'll figure it out. Just don't spend $200 on a new one if it's just the harness. Try having someone giggle the wires near the sensor, once of them could be broken off inside the insulation.

 

Dang, sounds like a simple wiring issue. I was hoping that we had a WBO2 problem with a model OTHER than the LC-1.

 

Pulled the sensor & wiring harness to the sensor from the gauge. All the wires test fine. No shorts. Don't know how to test the sensor itself but the gauge/controller has power coming in and no power going out. Best I can figure with my limited ability is the controller/gauge unit took a dump. Couldn't find a damn shop in town that has one in stock. Only on place had them, HPfreaks, and they closed too damn early to get to. FACK! Major metropolitan area and there isn't a parts store, tuner or performance shop that stocks them. Unbelievable.

 

My solution to the same problem:
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?LH_BIN=1...=p3286.c0.m301

 

I can get it for $199 at HPfreaks, I just have to wait for Monday. I can't believe they are the only place in the Portland area that stocks them. Baxter, Oreilly, VatoZone, Napa, etc + the 1/2 dozen tuner shops + the race shops I called don't carry them.