Your thoughts on the enormous new hole in my bumper.
I think this qualifies for most badass NA out there (at least based on looks). What sort of stuff is used to make that lip? It kinda looks like some landscaping trim, except the edge isn't rounded.
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I like those scoops...anyone know what they could be?
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NACA ducts, you can get them lots of places. Pegasus racing carries them and there's some other places but I can't think of them. I'll be doing those in the front eventually for brake ducting. Another in the triangle window for some air to the driver too.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
Because every professionally built racecar on earth doesn't have a huge ******* intercooler in front of the only opening that feeds air to the radiator. Miatas with FMICs need big, high-flow fans. Period.
I think you're overblowing the cooling thing, as usual. Dual low-pro Spals, stock ducting, a reroute and an FM hood will give you all the cooling you'll ever need.
I think you're overblowing the cooling thing, as usual. Dual low-pro Spals, stock ducting, a reroute and an FM hood will give you all the cooling you'll ever need.
I'm going to do the splitter/scooper ****, then see what happens. Hopefully I can make it through a session.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,106
From: Sunnyvale, CA
Someone should buy it, then. The car's been for sale for a few months now. Canadian '94 BRG, fully caged, T3 setup with an AEM and a DO Progressive kit. Gorgeous car. It was my roadster muse when I first bought my car. I codrove it at an autocross last year and it's fast as hell.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
Someone should buy it, then. The car's been for sale for a few months now. Canadian '94 BRG, fully caged, T3 setup with an AEM and a DO Progressive kit. Gorgeous car. It was my roadster muse when I first bought my car. I codrove it at an autocross last year and it's fast as hell.
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Me thinks that each car and install is different enough to justify a "try and see if it works" approach. There are various ways to resolve each issue too. I have a big *** radiator and fan which seem to manage my coolant temps quite well in the SE summer heat, in traffic (sans a/c).
Below is an image showing my plans to restructure the interior of the mouth. The top section may be wishful thinking, but the bottom is absolutely feasible. In my case I've got a larger radiator, but even the stock radiator could be lowered some to provide direct exposure to oncoming air by dropping the lower part of the mouth shrouding as pictured.
I agree- that hole just needs an insert with a finished edge
Below is an image showing my plans to restructure the interior of the mouth. The top section may be wishful thinking, but the bottom is absolutely feasible. In my case I've got a larger radiator, but even the stock radiator could be lowered some to provide direct exposure to oncoming air by dropping the lower part of the mouth shrouding as pictured.
I agree- that hole just needs an insert with a finished edge
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As far as the cut out on Sav's car, You did a good job. I would probably get black door trim and place around the hole to make the edges smooth and uniform.
You may have already done that, I didn't read all 7 pages.
You may have already done that, I didn't read all 7 pages.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
I wonder if some straighteners would help move air through the heat exchangers too?
Do we actually have anyone here who's running a sealed/shrouded radiator, without a cut bumper who's seen the track?
GT3man...se the useless metal above your tow hook? Cut that out with a sawz-all and hit the other side too. You'll move lots more air.
Do we actually have anyone here who's running a sealed/shrouded radiator, without a cut bumper who's seen the track?
GT3man...se the useless metal above your tow hook? Cut that out with a sawz-all and hit the other side too. You'll move lots more air.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
I wonder how those NACAs would look painted to match? I could run a 2-hole NACA for the oil cooler and it would be really easy...but will it move enough air for a 24-row 6x10" heat exchanger?
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: GJ, CO
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I wonder if some straighteners would help move air through the heat exchangers too?
Do we actually have anyone here who's running a sealed/shrouded radiator, without a cut bumper who's seen the track?
GT3man...se the useless metal above your tow hook? Cut that out with a sawz-all and hit the other side too. You'll move lots more air.
Do we actually have anyone here who's running a sealed/shrouded radiator, without a cut bumper who's seen the track?
GT3man...se the useless metal above your tow hook? Cut that out with a sawz-all and hit the other side too. You'll move lots more air.
How bout this: Stock radiator, 20x12x3 core IC sealed in front of it with the stock A/C condenser sealed to it. Stock NB shrouding. I can cruise at 70mph all day long A/C blasting and make pulls up to speed and it never thinks about overheating. I can sit idling with A/C on and it's fine. My **** works. I think you should do what I posted earlier with regards to ducting. Maybe others will comment on its effectiveness. Here it is again...
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
I swear you ask so many dumb questions. You seriously don't believe what anybody tells you. 10 ******* engineers that did the aero aspect of the miata could come here and tell you what will improve it and you'd still doubt them.
How bout this: Stock radiator, 20x12x3 core IC sealed in front of it with the stock A/C condenser sealed to it. Stock NB shrouding. I can cruise at 70mph all day long A/C blasting and make pulls up to speed and it never thinks about overheating. I can sit idling with A/C on and it's fine. My **** works. I think you should do what I posted earlier with regards to ducting. Maybe others will comment on its effectiveness. Here it is again...
How bout this: Stock radiator, 20x12x3 core IC sealed in front of it with the stock A/C condenser sealed to it. Stock NB shrouding. I can cruise at 70mph all day long A/C blasting and make pulls up to speed and it never thinks about overheating. I can sit idling with A/C on and it's fine. My **** works. I think you should do what I posted earlier with regards to ducting. Maybe others will comment on its effectiveness. Here it is again...
Why don't you understand that stomping on the gas in 5th gear is different from tucking behind a train in 2nd and 3rd gear for laps at a time? I'm tearing up the pegasus catalog right now too.
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I'd be willing to bet that if you did nothing more than put a big ******* fan on that radiator the engine would never overheat. You don't believe this though. But it's the ******* truth. A big 25 or 30A fan will pull so much ******* air through that radiator the car will lurch forward at a red light when it comes on....
Or if you did the shrouding like I showed it wouldn't overheat with stock fans. IMO, adding scoopers and ducts to get more air to the front is a joke. There's plenty of area up there for all the air you need. You don't race at 3 mph. Most of the air that hits the front of the car doesn't go through the mouth. It goes around it. Putting a bigger opening won't do ****. Putting a scooper won't do ****. You have to do things to make air flow. Pressure building up in the engine bay doesn't help flow through the heat exchanger. So adding 4 times more frontal area to the mouth just causes more air to built up under the hood.
Or if you did the shrouding like I showed it wouldn't overheat with stock fans. IMO, adding scoopers and ducts to get more air to the front is a joke. There's plenty of area up there for all the air you need. You don't race at 3 mph. Most of the air that hits the front of the car doesn't go through the mouth. It goes around it. Putting a bigger opening won't do ****. Putting a scooper won't do ****. You have to do things to make air flow. Pressure building up in the engine bay doesn't help flow through the heat exchanger. So adding 4 times more frontal area to the mouth just causes more air to built up under the hood.
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